converting to roller cam

[americanmusc1e]

I have a '69 350 block bored .060 over and I am thinking about converting to a roller cam, can I drill and tap the holes for the spider and use this kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

or do I have to have aftermarket roller lifters which are more expensive

[mongoose]

i think the later model blocks had pedestals for that to bolt to..

[joeys66pickup]

what would it take to say convert a 396 over to a roller?

[Twisted78SS]

Typically to retro-fit a block for a roller cam, there are a couple of things to consider.

1. Usually since the roller cam cores are billet, you need a bronze gear for your distributor.
2. Retro-fit lifters often have a link bar for each pair to maintain alignment
3. A cam button is often needed to keep the cam from walking in the block
4. ..There is more I'm sure, but I have to run..

Anyone else wanna add to this?

[joeys66pickup]

ok so thats ALOT easier then i had thought it was....i was under the assumption there was machining required and some other money eating stuff

[mongoose]

nope

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by joeys66pickup

ok so thats ALOT easier then i had thought it was....i was under the assumption there was machining required and some other money eating stuff

OE roller lifters cost around $200 for spider, link bars and lifters
Aftermarket retrofit lifters cost around $500 plus a $200 cam

[Wild83C10]

You need all the items that Twisted suggested. You could go with a composite gear insteead of a bronze.

The summitracing link to the lifters wont work on the older gen 1 SBC. You have to buy the retrofit lifters and thay are like $400 or more for just the lifters. Like these.

[mongoose]

go solid... if it's not a daily...

[shortbed70]

Do a search. Heres some info I gathered... If you can get the lifters and spider out of a newer block heres what needs to be done. Drill and tap three holes in lifter valley then you'll need three spacers to move the spider up some then in order to run the stock type roller lifters with the retainers you will need to clearence the cylinder sides of the block above where the lifters set so the retainer plate will set flat on the block. After doing this you will need to cleanup very well and the cam button. If you can do this work yourself it should cast around 150.00 or so. If you want the easy route its pricey at around 800+. Also you will need to upgrade springs. Solids are cheaper then hydraulics but come with alittle more maintenence. BTW my roller swap is going to run around 350.00Solid cam,tie bar lifters,bronze gear everything else I already have. Herbert racing.....

[VDOG]

Question if I have a roller valve train, do I have to have a roller cam?
Im supposed to have a roller cam, ( did not see the engine being built) but I came across some 190/202 heads that I want to swap. They are the old lifter style. Can I swap these heads?

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Do a search. Heres some info I gathered... If you can get the lifters and spider out of a newer block heres what needs to be done. Drill and tap three holes in lifter valley then you'll need three spacers to move the spider up some then in order to run the stock type roller lifters with the retainers you will need to clearence the cylinder sides of the block above where the lifters set so the retainer plate will set flat on the block. After doing this you will need to cleanup very well and the cam button. If you can do this work yourself it should cast around 150.00 or so. If you want the easy route its pricey at around 800+. Also you will need to upgrade springs. Solids are cheaper then hydraulics but come with alittle more maintenence. BTW my roller swap is going to run around 350.00Solid cam,tie bar lifters,bronze gear everything else I already have. Herbert racing.....

I'd like to do that but the motor is already in my truck and I don't have the money for aftermarket roller lifters so I'll probably go with a solid hydraulic

[mongoose]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

I'd like to do that but the motor is already in my truck and I don't have the money for aftermarket roller lifters so I'll probably go with a solid hydraulic

nothing really wrong with a solid roller.... just get good poly locks and you won't need to adjust it that often at all.

[shortbed70]

I've done cam and lifter swaps in trucks and there not that bad. I am going solid cause I don't drive that much and I have polylocks.
VDOG You dont have to change anything on the heads except springs and get a pushrod length checking tool cause theres a good chance you'll need shorter pushrods.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

I've done cam and lifter swaps in trucks and there not that bad. I am going solid cause I don't drive that much and I have polylocks.
VDOG You dont have to change anything on the heads except springs and get a pushrod length checking tool cause theres a good chance you'll need shorter pushrods.

I'd like to to OE roller and spider but I don't think I can do it with the motor in the truck, this is a daily driver so I can't pull the motor for a cam swap

I'd like to run solid roller but I'm looking at a small cam and they don't make many small rollers in of the shelf designs, plus I drive the truck everyday so a solid roller would probably be more trouble than its worth

[VDOG]

So what did you end up doing about the roller cam swap? After all the drama I went through I found a 92 305 TPI for a great price that I just dropped in.
Maybe that would be an option for you seeing that you want a roller cam setup.
My TPI pagee below.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=vdog

[chris mc bride]

as most have said if going hydraulic you'll need a retro kit.If your going to race it Id go solid.If its daily driver this would still work just you will have to adjust valve lash about once a month or more if drive lots of miles a month.

[BigDan3131]

I've had them all, but I would say the best bang for your buck will be a solid cam. As far as lash adjustments go, that depends on what you intend to do. I considered my El Camino to be a daily driver yet I have a cam with specs of 248/254 @.50 for duration with a lift of .534I/.525E. What kept it more streetable to me was the low lash type of cam it is. My lash is .016/.018 and I would only lash it if I felt the powerband was off. This cam in a lowly little 327