Looking for advice for my first truck

[42corsair]

Hello all.

I guess I'll get right into it - I'm looking for some advice to make my first purchase and get into fixing up a classic truck. I know pretty much zero about fixing cars, doing body work, etc - however one of the my goals is to learn by doing.

Here is what I have set for my minimum requirements:

Must be driveable - as I will immediately begin to use as a daily driver.
1969-1971 C10 Longbed
350/350 V8, Auto

What should I look for and what should I stay away from condition wise given that this is going to be my first attempt?

Any input or general advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[MrC1]

I'd be very careful about rust, but that's a given. Personally, I'd look for an a/c truck with a good working system. I'd also try to find one set up as close to the way you want it in the end (make those decisions now).

What I mean is, if you think you'd like an overdrive transmission, you might be able to find one that's already converted. Same goes for gearing. If you want some steep gears, trucks that have this modification are definitely out there. Also look at colors and trim types.

As an example, this is what I wanted when I was looking:

1) 1970-1972 C20 Longbed
2) Auto w/ OD
3) A/C
4) P/S
5) P/B
6) No or little rust
7) No side trim

I found exactly that in Oklahoma for a fair price. OK seems to be the home of most of these trucks. I've searched far and wide, but 75% of the hits were always in OK. Go figure!

[tim21391]

body work as in cab corners, floor supports, rockers, floor wise? are u planing on doing that or what? id find one the cheapest way and build it to your likings..

[sjarrett71]

I've owned 3 of these trucks and only really liked one of them. I would look for something that is as rust free as possible with the options you want. Opposite of MrC1, I don't want an A/C truck but my current truck has it although the system is not complete.

Bottom line is, buy the most truck you can afford. It will be cheaper in the long run especially if you have to do body work. I would rather buy a truck with no engine or trans as long as the body was good.

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by MrC1

I'd be very careful about rust, but that's a given. Personally, I'd look for an a/c truck with a good working system. I'd also try to find one set up as close to the way you want it in the end (make those decisions now).

What I mean is, if you think you'd like an overdrive transmission, you might be able to find one that's already converted. Same goes for gearing. If you want some steep gears, trucks that have this modification are definitely out there. Also look at colors and trim types.

As an example, this is what I wanted when I was looking:

1) 1970-1972 C20 Longbed
2) Auto w/ OD
3) A/C
4) P/S
5) P/B
6) No or little rust
7) No side trim

I found exactly that in Oklahoma for a fair price. OK seems to be the home of most of these trucks. I've searched far and wide, but 75% of the hits were always in OK. Go figure!

I have the 700R4 on a "nice to have" but not required list. But I see your point about getting as much as what I want the end result to be, in the beginning.

I actually found a nice 70 C10 that has the 700R4, but the engine is a 314ci - I'm not sure what's involved $ wise to swap that for a 350 - maybe its ok? There are a bunch of engine mods listed as well which is somewhat greek to me:

S/R Torquer Heads with SS Valves - Port Matched
RV Cam with Doubler Roller Chain
Edelbrock Performer intake
HEI
High Volume Oil Pump
Comp Cam Roller Rockers
Holley Dual Feed Double Pumper
B&M shifter

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by tim21391

body work as in cab corners, floor supports, rockers, floor wise? are u planing on doing that or what? id find one the cheapest way and build it to your likings..

Well I wouldn't mind doing it - the problem is, I am going to be learning as I go so I'm thinking I don't want to get in over my head and end up having to strip down to the frame.

[kcjones]

The standard advice I think most guys would give who've already had one of these trucks is:
1) 71-72 already have power discs and 5x5 lug pattern, good for wheel selection and braking!
2) Rust is the biggest hurdle to overcome if you're new to building cars and trucks. You can get a buddy's help for the weekend and swap an engine, but good luck getting those inner rockers lined up correctly and welded in if you've never done body work!
3) Don't let a bad deal suck you in cause it's got "performance parts", a "hot motor" or "aftermarket parts included".
4) If you want to jump in and drive, ask all the same questions you'd ask if you were buying a 2001 truck: Were the fluids changed regularly? How are the brakes? Are there any electrical problems? Does it stay cool in the summer? Do the doors/hood/tailgate open and close? Is it registered?
5) Don't buy the first one you see! Tons of guys make this mistake.

Good luck, I encourage to you to stick to it - you'll find one that's perfect!

[69halfton]

all that greek-ish stuff is just whats in the motor in terms of performance parts. seems to have been gone through and hot rodded a little?

but..what is a 314? is that a bored .60 over 305 or what?

id look for a truck with little to no body work as i find that the hardest part. but then if your an artistic kinda guy, you will like the bodywork.

[Longhorn Man]

before anyone can give real acurate advice, we need to know what your honest budget is, and if that leaves money to do upgrades/repairs right off the batt.
If you have 10,000 bucks in your pocket, that's a darn near perfect truck.
If you have 1500, then you need to choose wisely
I don't think rust should be too much of an issue out there.
Registration/back registration is a BIG thing out there with your screwed up registration laws.

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

before anyone can give real acurate advice, we need to know what your honest budget is, and if that leaves money to do upgrades/repairs right off the batt.
If you have 10,000 bucks in your pocket, that's a darn near perfect truck.
If you have 1500, then you need to choose wisely
I don't think rust should be too much of an issue out there.
Registration/back registration is a BIG thing out there with your screwed up registration laws.

I was thinking of keeping it between $2-4k for the initial purchase.

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by kcjones

The standard advice I think most guys would give who've already had one of these trucks is:
1) 71-72 already have power discs and 5x5 lug pattern, good for wheel selection and braking!
2) Rust is the biggest hurdle to overcome if you're new to building cars and trucks. You can get a buddy's help for the weekend and swap an engine, but good luck getting those inner rockers lined up correctly and welded in if you've never done body work!
3) Don't let a bad deal suck you in cause it's got "performance parts", a "hot motor" or "aftermarket parts included".
4) If you want to jump in and drive, ask all the same questions you'd ask if you were buying a 2001 truck: Were the fluids changed regularly? How are the brakes? Are there any electrical problems? Does it stay cool in the summer? Do the doors/hood/tailgate open and close? Is it registered?
5) Don't buy the first one you see! Tons of guys make this mistake.

Good luck, I encourage to you to stick to it - you'll find one that's perfect!

Great advice - seems like a good FAQ could be started for this. I looked through the section and didn't see one.

I would like to learn the body work stuff - and there is only one way to do that, just do it.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by 42corsair

Hello all.

I guess I'll get right into it - I'm looking for some advice to make my first purchase and get into fixing up a classic truck. I know pretty much zero about fixing cars, doing body work, etc - however one of the my goals is to learn by doing.

Here is what I have set for my minimum requirements:

Must be driveable - as I will immediately begin to use as a daily driver.
1969-1971 C10 Longbed
350/350 V8, Auto

What should I look for and what should I stay away from condition wise given that this is going to be my first attempt?

Any input or general advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

You wouldnt even consider a short bed???

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by sjarrett71

I've owned 3 of these trucks and only really liked one of them. I would look for something that is as rust free as possible with the options you want. Opposite of MrC1, I don't want an A/C truck but my current truck has it although the system is not complete.

Bottom line is, buy the most truck you can afford. It will be cheaper in the long run especially if you have to do body work. I would rather buy a truck with no engine or trans as long as the body was good.

Thats what I did and all the body work it needed was lower door skins and rockers. Body was the most important thing to me

[70cst]

Those who have posted have posted wisely. Agreed that where you live rust should not be an issue. Remember...normally mechanics are easier to fix than rust. Being where you live I would want an AC truck but then again one can install an aftermarket AC for about $1500-2000. V8 engines-figure about 10-15 mpg max but more likely 10-13 mpg. Longbeds will normally be cheaper to purchase than shortbeds. I prefer an automatic over manual but that is your choice. Another issue is do you want a mostly stock truck or one that has been modified. If you can get the service records that would be great. I would be alert to guys who have trucks to flip as they are more concerned about making $$$ than the truck itself. If you can find a truck that a guy/gal has that needs or wants to sell it...there is a good chance it has been taken care of better than the flp specialist. You are the buyer...you make the rules. Also remember: Just because it's rare doesn't mean it's valuable. You will hear often..."this here is a classic" which means he might be asking more than what its worth. Take your time and...Good Luck. PS:The opinions express are worth about 2 cents and come from to much time surfing this sight. My opinion may change at any given moment.

[weasel29gm]

For 2-4k get one with a good cab, doors,fenders,bedsides can be bought after/market. If you can't do body work a rusty cab will cost $$$ to fix. Around 4-5k should get a decent driver. I agree about buyin' the first one you find. Unless its what you want or close. Good luck!!

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by jbristo67

You wouldnt even consider a short bed???

Just personal preference. I don't like the look of the shortbed - it looks kind of stubby to me.

[ksjh1316]

I agree stay 71-72 for disc brakes as it is a great improvement over drums. Also are you married to the idea of a Chevy? You can usually get a better truck if you go GMC vs Chevy. The Chevy's prices are usually atleast 20% higher so it seems at your price level.

One last though check the for sale section on the board there always are great entry level truck that board members own and they are usually more than willing to answer every question on the vehicle and will show you the areas of concern. This is one of the great things on this site is that everyone loves these trucks and wants to help out someone achieve the same enjoyment.

[PanelDeland]

Great advice you're getting.I would also recommend reading all the posts on the BB.It seems like a lot but knowing what others have run into on their projects will help you see what you want to avoid.Of course the desire to fix one is what we're all about here.Think also about the tools/equipment you have or can borrow.I find that I usually spend a bit of budget on tools or whatever needed to do something.I'm an industrial mechanic by trade so have a lot of stuff but when I did my ball joints I needed a Ball joint press (usually available at a parts store) and a ball joint seperator/AKA pickle fork.Tools may also be called by more than one name.I would also suggest not looking at"it only needs a little work to run" or "It's been sitting a while but ran good when I parked it" type trucks for a first project.
Above all educate yourself about the trucks before you spend that hard earned money.You will have a better idea of what you are getting into and can better determine how much it will cost(Figure it up then multiply $$$ and time by 3).Good luck.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

Great advice you're getting.I would also recommend reading all the posts on the BB.It seems like a lot but knowing what others have run into on their projects will help you see what you want to avoid.Of course the desire to fix one is what we're all about here.Think also about the tools/equipment you have or can borrow.I find that I usually spend a bit of budget on tools or whatever needed to do something.I'm an industrial mechanic by trade so have a lot of stuff but when I did my ball joints I needed a Ball joint press (usually available at a parts store) and a ball joint seperator/AKA pickle fork.Tools may also be called by more than one name.I would also suggest not looking at"it only needs a little work to run" or "It's been sitting a while but ran good when I parked it" type trucks for a first project.
Above all educate yourself about the trucks before you spend that hard earned money.You will have a better idea of what you are getting into and can better determine how much it will cost(Figure it up then multiply $$$ and time by 3).Good luck.

Very good point PanelDeland. When I bought the Circuit Rider I was on this sight for about six months doing a lot of reading. What is sort of funny...I was looking for a 54-55 Chevy 1/2 ton when I ran across my truck. (1970cst) I knew from all the reading from this sight...she was the one for me. Now after 8 years of ownership new life is being breathed into her. Hopefully in about a month she will be home.

[tim21391]

i didnt have any experience in patch work either... i mean i did a little at work but none consisted of cab corners, rockers, floor and such... i just told dad i was going to start it and i had a friend who is a board member help me and he gave me a lot of help. he helped cut the bad out with me and cut the new pieces to fit.. so if you got the time i would go ahead and do it.... i mean u cant make it any worse then it already is... im doing it where i spend $100 here and $100 there because everybody knows teenagers arent made of money...

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

Great advice you're getting.I would also recommend reading all the posts on the BB.It seems like a lot but knowing what others have run into on their projects will help you see what you want to avoid.Of course the desire to fix one is what we're all about here.Think also about the tools/equipment you have or can borrow.I find that I usually spend a bit of budget on tools or whatever needed to do something.I'm an industrial mechanic by trade so have a lot of stuff but when I did my ball joints I needed a Ball joint press (usually available at a parts store) and a ball joint seperator/AKA pickle fork.Tools may also be called by more than one name.I would also suggest not looking at"it only needs a little work to run" or "It's been sitting a while but ran good when I parked it" type trucks for a first project.
Above all educate yourself about the trucks before you spend that hard earned money.You will have a better idea of what you are getting into and can better determine how much it will cost(Figure it up then multiply $$$ and time by 3).Good luck.

Yes, this board is an incredible resource. I've been reading and reading. As for the tools - I have no problem picking up more tools. You can never have enough tools. =)

[extd56]

I have a 71 longbed that I am selling not too far from you. It is a factory big block truck but is a 3/4 ton that could be converted to 1/2 ton if wanted. I converted my 67 3/4 ton to a 1/2 ton.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...ct=3189&cat=12

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by extd56

I have a 71 longbed that I am selling not too far from you. It is a factory big block truck but is a 3/4 ton that could be converted to 1/2 ton if wanted. I converted my 67 3/4 ton to a 1/2 ton.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...ct=3189&cat=12

That looks like a nice truck - I would have a few concerns though - I believe a big block gets me into a more expensive bracket for parts/upgrades and the other thing is the leaf backend - at some point I plan to lower and ultimately bag this truck and from what I have been researching, leafs make this quite a bit more difficult.

Maybe someone can tell me I'm wrong?

[42corsair]

Originally Posted by 69halfton

all that greek-ish stuff is just whats in the motor in terms of performance parts. seems to have been gone through and hot rodded a little?

but..what is a 314? is that a bored .60 over 305 or what?

id look for a truck with little to no body work as i find that the hardest part. but then if your an artistic kinda guy, you will like the bodywork.

I spoke to the guy and he said it was a misunderstanding with the engine shop and the end result was supposed to be a 327, but the original was 2-something so it ended up being a 314 instead of a 327. Something like that.

I acutally thing I would like the body work stuff - but you never know until you try. =)

[extd56]

Originally Posted by 42corsair

That looks like a nice truck - I would have a few concerns though - I believe a big block gets me into a more expensive bracket for parts/upgrades and the other thing is the leaf backend - at some point I plan to lower and ultimately bag this truck and from what I have been researching, leafs make this quite a bit more difficult.

Maybe someone can tell me I'm wrong?

I lowered my 67 GMC/Chevy truck that has leafs on it no problem and it still rides pretty good. Not too sure on the bag part. All of the trucks in the 73 and up have leafs so it makes it easy to get a different rear end and I know a lot of those trucks have bags too.