Mini tubs and wheels

[68LSS1]

I've got a couple of questions I can't seem to find an answer for. Hopefully someone here can. I started off just planning on rebuilding my grenaded 350 and was just going to install a Dakota Digital Dash when the engine went back in. Now fast forward six months later--Dakota setup sitting in box collecting dust, truck down to the frame. But sitting on the K-member is a '98 LS1 and a 6 speed manual with it. This thing is really out of hand. Anyway, the questions: Anybody here run the Fatman Fabrications K-member? I'm looking at the stage III. Tubular A-arms, coil overs, and a Mustang II rack. Likes? Dislikes? Will I get any weight reduction over the stock peices? Now for the rear-end. I'm going with some coil overs here too that will give me a 4 1/2" drop. I don't want to put a 4 link in but would like to be able to run a 12-14" wide wheel. I'll be putting out 400-430hp and will throw on a 100hp shot of gas on top of that. I don't think with the rear suspension set up that wheel hop will be a problem but traction will. I'm putting the fuel tank in the back frame along with the battery and N20 bottle in the bed. It looks to me like if I installed mini tubs I could pick up almost 5" wheel space. I'll have to wait until I install the coil overs and remeasure as they might take some of this clearance away. Would a lot of positive offset be ok? Where would one normally try and put the wheel offset when doing a tubbed set up? As close to equal as possible? Or does it even matter (concerning wheel strength, handling, load/wear on axle bearing, etc)? I'd like to run a 10-12" wheel for everyday use and have another set for the track. And lastly, I already have converted to 5 lug set up a few years ago. The rear end is out of a early '70's truck. How much abuse can they take? Should I go ahead a get a 12bolt/9" setup going also? I know this is long--sorry--but any help will be greatly appreciated.
Brian

[crazy longhorn]

On the issue of tubs.....I have done a minitub on the longhorn. I have a 5" stretch, & could fit a 12" wide wheel.....but the leafs would have to go! At anyrate, I will be running a 15x10, with a 6 1/2" bs, & figured that i could go as much as 7 1/2- 7 3/4 on the bs on a steel wheel without drum interference(aftermarket drums).This is on a largebore dropped center wheel(13 1/2" where the center fit the wheel). If you are beyond that figure, you will need to machine the fins on the drum for wheel clearance. another thought is to step up to a 16" alum wheel to gain a little clearance. i havent tryed on a coil truck, but have heard that a 12" wheel will fit with the proper bs. You will need to remove the bumpstops, & stretch the tubs accordingly.........best i can say for sure, is measure 2 times & cut 1 time, as there are slightly different widths on the housings(67-69 are 1 1/2" narrower than the 71-72). Not much solid info, but each one will set up differently due to rear diff width, & suspension drop ect. Good luck.....crazy AL

[CustomChevy]

with your HP goal, I would go with a ladder bar setup on your rear suspension. have used competition engineering forever. great stuff.



my 2 cents.....