Sb 400 question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

neonlarry · 12-23-2002, 07:20 PM

I was in Pick and Pull today, and I saw a chevy small block lying on the ground, all that was left of it was the crank, rods, pistions, and not much else. This is what mortech said about the casting number 3951509....400...74-80...2 It also has 010 under where the timing chain would go. I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and just from what I could see, the cylenders don't show much wear. I have kind of been looking for a 400 block for a while, and I was just wondering if this one would be worth buying, or if I would be better off looking for something better.

dmec · 12-23-2002, 08:25 PM

pull the rod and main caps and check the crank. check starter mounting pad for breakage. if all looks good buy it. cant imagine anyone wanting heads and intake. gota be a reason its layin there.

72MARIO · 12-23-2002, 08:26 PM

heads are good flowing some guys put them on their 350's

neonlarry · 12-23-2002, 10:14 PM

Well, I don't know why someone would just take the heads and manifold, but out of the probably 50 s/b chevys that I saw, over half of the were missing at least one of those things. For that matter, why would you want 4 used pushrods, or why are there dissambled q-jets all over the ground. lol But anyway, my point is that while we porbably wouldnt' take most of that stuff, some of the people seem to want it. anyway, I didn't think to look at the starter pad on the 400, that's a good idea. other than that it looks good though. I guess I will see what anyone else has to say about it, and I will go back and look again after christmas.

Jefe · 12-23-2002, 11:09 PM

If all the bolt holes are looking good, (no broken bolts or taps etc. or stripped) I say take it. Just built my first 400 and installed it in a Nova I have...really quick...rev's fast too. Good Luck!

bigjimzlll · 12-23-2002, 11:11 PM

how much do they want for it?...im looking for one myself...ask if they will let you return it if it checks out bad...if its 100.00 or less, and you dont want it..ill take it..the 509 is a good block
Jim

Longhorn Man · 12-23-2002, 11:13 PM

Doesn't it need to say 10 20 to be a high nickle block? I think 10 is nothing special if memory serves...although...400's are all special, esp the 2 bolt ones.

neonlarry · 12-23-2002, 11:24 PM

I know someone was talking about how the 010 blocks were special. I looked it over fairly well today, but I will have to see if I can go look again and probably buy it. You can take something back if it's bad, but, you have to exchange it, and with something like that... lol I think that's kind of funny that I looked though the whole yard for one and I ended up almost tripping over it. So it is rare enough that I should buy it if it doesn't have any visible damage?

71Blazer · 12-23-2002, 11:26 PM

I have the same casting (509) that I'm rebuilding right now. It was rebuilt in 1989 by a previous owner who had the cylinders bored to .060 over, the crank and rods were ground down .010. I don't hot rod (too much) but I don't baby it either.

Point being when we disassembled the engine it was extremely clean inside, the lifters slid right out and there was virtually no ring around the cylinders. Even with the over-bore I've never had any water jacket or overheating problems. We even found the oil sump disconnected from pump and lying in the bottom of the pan.

The only "special" care I've given to it is regular maintenance. It seems to be a solid casting and I've heard the 2-bolt mains were actually stronger than 4-bolts in the 400sb (removes too much material from the block).

I like it.

Truckstr · 12-24-2002, 12:21 AM

71Blazer, be careful with that .060" over 400 block. Ya gotta keep in mind that these were siamesed-bore blocks. Where the rest of the SB family had a water jacket between the cylinders, the 400 didn't.

I guess that I'm lucky. I came across a "virgin" (stock bore) '70 vintage 400 block. It's a 3951511 (F2 70), 2-bolt. I will over-bore it, but no more than .040".

Just a friendly word. Hope I didn't step on your toes.

Jeff

*67/72junkie* · 12-24-2002, 01:17 AM

Grab it .I have sold several 400 blocks with just crank & rods as rebuilders for $250 ea.They are getting harder to find every day .I have 4 left and none are for sale.Try to get a return if cracked deal if possible and have it magnafluxed as so as you can get it disassembled.Also you can visually check for cracks between cylinders at steam holes .44o hp 490 ft lb torque dynoed from a 030 400 built with good parts but not exotic HI $.I have about $2500 invested and assembled it myself to run on 93 octane pump gas. It is an unbeatable combo for the $ invested in my opinion. Has run a best of 8.60 in 1/8 mile with 10 inch slicks bolted on after I drove to the track.This is in a 3200 lb swb 69 GMC with 373 posi 350t with 3200 rpm converter at the time.Only problem was I busted two rear ends in only four passes.Cut mounts off factory rear and welded onto dana 60 with spool and 538 gears.Put in power glide with 4500 converter and truck went 7.32 on first pass.Then track guy said I had to meets pro specs so truck got cage,harnesses,bigger slicks etc.Best pass after all modifications was 7.16 .Have since pulled motor and sold truck witch now has $15ooo 468 with Rehr Morrison aluminum heads and ladder bar setup.Best time with new combo is 6.37 Thats alot of $ for less than a second.I guess you can tell I,m very proud of my little mighty mouse.

neonlarry · 12-24-2002, 06:18 PM

TTT I am going to go back and look at it thursday or friday, but I just want to see if anyone else has any opinions about it.

RACING29 · 12-24-2002, 06:44 PM

BUY IT!!!!!

Tracy Focht · 12-26-2002, 10:18 PM

I just am about done with my new 406. And it's a 509 casting, 2 bolt mains. If you can, pull the heads real quick and see if there are .030/.040 pistons in there. Most will have it stamped on top of the piston.
The stock 400 heads are nothing really...but the block and crank will be worth it. And if you build it, don't use the stock 5.585" 400 rods, step up to at least the 5.7" (350) rods.
Good luck!

neonlarry · 12-27-2002, 03:27 AM

It dosen't have any heads, but yeah, I am going to check that. I think it is still the stock bore though. Hopefuly I can go get it tomorrow.

neonlarry · 12-27-2002, 06:10 PM

Well, I went back and looked at the 400. It looked pretty good from the top, but I turned it over and it had spun the #5 rod bearing, and broke the rod, so both the carnk and the block were ruined. Oh well, I did find some other good stuff so it was worth going back, but I wish that block had been good.

dmec · 12-28-2002, 03:48 AM

told ya. i hunt 4 pick a part yards 1 a week and have met many guys getting and reselling parts for a living. it has been my experience that they miss very little. parts left on the ground have to be checked very carefully. i have learned this the hard way.

12-23-2002, 07:20 PM	#1
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Sb 400 question I was in Pick and Pull today, and I saw a chevy small block lying on the ground, all that was left of it was the crank, rods, pistions, and not much else. This is what mortech said about the casting number 3951509....400...74-80...2 It also has 010 under where the timing chain would go. I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and just from what I could see, the cylenders don't show much wear. I have kind of been looking for a 400 block for a while, and I was just wondering if this one would be worth buying, or if I would be better off looking for something better. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

12-23-2002, 08:26 PM	#3
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	heads are good flowing some guys put them on their 350's __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

12-23-2002, 10:14 PM	#4
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Well, I don't know why someone would just take the heads and manifold, but out of the probably 50 s/b chevys that I saw, over half of the were missing at least one of those things. For that matter, why would you want 4 used pushrods, or why are there dissambled q-jets all over the ground. lol But anyway, my point is that while we porbably wouldnt' take most of that stuff, some of the people seem to want it. anyway, I didn't think to look at the starter pad on the 400, that's a good idea. other than that it looks good though. I guess I will see what anyone else has to say about it, and I will go back and look again after christmas. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

12-23-2002, 11:11 PM	#6
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	how much do they want for it?...im looking for one myself...ask if they will let you return it if it checks out bad...if its 100.00 or less, and you dont want it..ill take it..the 509 is a good block Jim __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

12-23-2002, 11:24 PM	#8
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	I know someone was talking about how the 010 blocks were special. I looked it over fairly well today, but I will have to see if I can go look again and probably buy it. You can take something back if it's bad, but, you have to exchange it, and with something like that... lol I think that's kind of funny that I looked though the whole yard for one and I ended up almost tripping over it. So it is rare enough that I should buy it if it doesn't have any visible damage? __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

12-23-2002, 08:25 PM	#2
dmec Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: yucaipa ca Posts: 580	pull the rod and main caps and check the crank. check starter mounting pad for breakage. if all looks good buy it. cant imagine anyone wanting heads and intake. gota be a reason its layin there.

12-23-2002, 11:09 PM	#5
Jefe Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Chandler, Arizona, USA Posts: 299	If all the bolt holes are looking good, (no broken bolts or taps etc. or stripped) I say take it. Just built my first 400 and installed it in a Nova I have...really quick...rev's fast too. Good Luck!

12-23-2002, 11:13 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Doesn't it need to say 10 20 to be a high nickle block? I think 10 is nothing special if memory serves...although...400's are all special, esp the 2 bolt ones.

12-23-2002, 11:26 PM	#9
71Blazer Goodbye Darlin' Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Coupeville, WA USA Posts: 330	I have the same casting (509) that I'm rebuilding right now. It was rebuilt in 1989 by a previous owner who had the cylinders bored to .060 over, the crank and rods were ground down .010. I don't hot rod (too much) but I don't baby it either. Point being when we disassembled the engine it was extremely clean inside, the lifters slid right out and there was virtually no ring around the cylinders. Even with the over-bore I've never had any water jacket or overheating problems. We even found the oil sump disconnected from pump and lying in the bottom of the pan. The only "special" care I've given to it is regular maintenance. It seems to be a solid casting and I've heard the 2-bolt mains were actually stronger than 4-bolts in the 400sb (removes too much material from the block). I like it. __________________ 1971 Blazer CST SOLD! Last edited by 71Blazer; 12-23-2002 at 11:28 PM.

12-24-2002, 12:21 AM	#10
Truckstr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Lebanon, Tennessee Posts: 1,372	71Blazer, be careful with that .060" over 400 block. Ya gotta keep in mind that these were siamesed-bore blocks. Where the rest of the SB family had a water jacket between the cylinders, the 400 didn't. I guess that I'm lucky. I came across a "virgin" (stock bore) '70 vintage 400 block. It's a 3951511 (F2 70), 2-bolt. I will over-bore it, but no more than .040". Just a friendly word. Hope I didn't step on your toes. Jeff __________________ Jeff '67 short Fleet; my ongoing project. '66 long Fleet; my original "baby." Live life or bust trying.

12-24-2002, 01:17 AM	#11
67/72junkie Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: NC Posts: 1,129	4oo Grab it .I have sold several 400 blocks with just crank & rods as rebuilders for $250 ea.They are getting harder to find every day .I have 4 left and none are for sale.Try to get a return if cracked deal if possible and have it magnafluxed as so as you can get it disassembled.Also you can visually check for cracks between cylinders at steam holes .44o hp 490 ft lb torque dynoed from a 030 400 built with good parts but not exotic HI $.I have about $2500 invested and assembled it myself to run on 93 octane pump gas. It is an unbeatable combo for the $ invested in my opinion. Has run a best of 8.60 in 1/8 mile with 10 inch slicks bolted on after I drove to the track.This is in a 3200 lb swb 69 GMC with 373 posi 350t with 3200 rpm converter at the time.Only problem was I busted two rear ends in only four passes.Cut mounts off factory rear and welded onto dana 60 with spool and 538 gears.Put in power glide with 4500 converter and truck went 7.32 on first pass.Then track guy said I had to meets pro specs so truck got cage,harnesses,bigger slicks etc.Best pass after all modifications was 7.16 .Have since pulled motor and sold truck witch now has $15ooo 468 with Rehr Morrison aluminum heads and ladder bar setup.Best time with new combo is 6.37 Thats alot of $ for less than a second.I guess you can tell I,m very proud of my little mighty mouse.

12-24-2002, 06:18 PM	#12
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	TTT I am going to go back and look at it thursday or friday, but I just want to see if anyone else has any opinions about it. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

12-24-2002, 06:44 PM	#13
RACING29 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Tennessee, Morristown Posts: 355	BUY IT!!!!! __________________ 1967 Chevy truck, R1 racing seats, 4 point racing harness, 4/6 drop, primered blue, soon to be shaved, 350- 060. over, flat top pistons, Eagle rods, Edelbrock Aluminum heads, 1.5 Scorpion roller rockers, Lunati 515" cam, mallory ignition, Holley 750 double pumper carb, Built 350 turbo trans, 2500-2800 boss hog stall, 20 gallon aluminum fuel cell!!!

12-26-2002, 10:18 PM	#14
Tracy Focht Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Stillwater, OK 74075 Posts: 2,936	I just am about done with my new 406. And it's a 509 casting, 2 bolt mains. If you can, pull the heads real quick and see if there are .030/.040 pistons in there. Most will have it stamped on top of the piston. The stock 400 heads are nothing really...but the block and crank will be worth it. And if you build it, don't use the stock 5.585" 400 rods, step up to at least the 5.7" (350) rods. Good luck!

12-27-2002, 03:27 AM	#15
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	It dosen't have any heads, but yeah, I am going to check that. I think it is still the stock bore though. Hopefuly I can go get it tomorrow. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

12-27-2002, 06:10 PM	#16
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Well, I went back and looked at the 400. It looked pretty good from the top, but I turned it over and it had spun the #5 rod bearing, and broke the rod, so both the carnk and the block were ruined. Oh well, I did find some other good stuff so it was worth going back, but I wish that block had been good. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

12-28-2002, 03:48 AM	#17
dmec Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: yucaipa ca Posts: 580	told ya. i hunt 4 pick a part yards 1 a week and have met many guys getting and reselling parts for a living. it has been my experience that they miss very little. parts left on the ground have to be checked very carefully. i have learned this the hard way.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.