wheel bearing question

[rcbildr]

Yesterday I had to replace my driverside outer front wheel bearing on my 85 Burb. I was amazed at how loose it was without melting down...my friend had a bearing fail on his K5 and had to use a cutting torch to get it out. Anyways, after seeing what my friend went thru with his rig I've always been leery about getting things set right.

I follow the procedure in the haynes manual, but I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to get things right...like do you remove the wheel and caliper? Is it better to have the bearing set a little on the tight side? How often do you repack the bearings?

One problem I've had when I've done mine is when I torque the outer spindle nut, the bearing preload changes. I've bought new spindle nuts and the same thing happens. Any ideas????

Any help will be gratly appreciated.

[78 Chevyrado]

Originally Posted by rcbildr

I follow the procedure in the haynes manual, but I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to get things right...like do you remove the wheel and caliper? Is it better to have the bearing set a little on the tight side? How often do you repack the bearings?

One problem I've had when I've done mine is when I torque the outer spindle nut, the bearing preload changes. I've bought new spindle nuts and the same thing happens. Any ideas????

Any help will be gratly appreciated.

I repack my bearings whenever I put on new brake pads. I'm there anyway and it only takes 5-10 more minutes if that.

Set your bearings as the book says and if the retainer for the cotter pin doesn't line up right you tighten it till they line up. I set mine with the calipers on it. Once I've pretty much gotten everything done I put the wheel on but not the center cap so I can adjust it with a tire on there for the extra weight so I can spin it easier and to see how long it spins after I let go. Plus then I can pull on the top and bottom of tire to feel for and bearing play. Do like the book says to set it up then with the tire on it, you can make small adjustments to make sure both sides are the same. It's not a big problem if you don't but that will make sure it won't pull later on. Your brakes can't be dragging excessively and should be equal on both sides or it will throw you off.


Question 2: One problem I've had when I've done mine is when I torque the outer spindle nut, the bearing preload changes. I've bought new spindle nuts and the same thing happens. Any ideas????

I'm not understanding what you mean. Any time you move the spindle nut the preload changes, that's how you set it.

[rcbildr]

Thanks for the help. I guess I forgot to mention I'm working on my 85 4x4. I only had to mess with the driver side and I think I have it set good enough for now. I'll be checking the hub to see how warm it gets for the next few days.

On Sunday I checked out the passenger side and made a disappointing discovery...my ball joints are going out....guess the $22 cheapies only last about a year and a half. The passenger side is the worst and the driver side isn't far behind. I'll be installing MOOG joints when I go to replace them.