Sway Bar Rivets.

[eightbanger]

A while ago I discovered that one of the two Rivets on my front sway bar was missing so I put a nut and bolt in there and forgot about it, then a while later noticed that it had worked loose so I added a lock nut with the split washer and it still worked loose. Now checking it the other day to see if it had loosened since, I found that it had and the one remaining Rivet had disappeared, sheared off I suppose....My question is this....is it essential that the sway bar brackets are Riveted on and not Bolted? If so how the heck do you install Rivets without working in a ship yard?

[too much stuff]

I don't know why you couldn't use bolts with lock washers. You could use grade 8 stuff for piece of mind...

[Boog]

8B. Is that thumpin big block shaking the frame apart? Grade 8 with lock washers ought to stay put. Maybe include some thread locker?

[cdowns]

all you need to rivet something is a metal rod a torch and a hammer and dolly plus a bit of imagination

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

I don't know why you couldn't use bolts with lock washers. You could use grade 8 stuff for piece of mind...

Hey Eric, don't laugh but what are Grade 8 Nuts & Bolts? are they stronger? next prob I have will be finding them over here I suppose.

Originally Posted by Boog

8B. Is that thumpin big block shaking the frame apart? Grade 8 with lock washers ought to stay put. Maybe include some thread locker?

Thanks Boog, I hope not!! it's probably all the bloody speed bumps over here shaking evereything loose

Do you guys have Bolts or Rivets?

[Green Machine]

Added sway bars to two of our trucks, just use grade 5 minimum, (3 lines) or better yet use grade 8, (6 lines). If you look at the factory bolts that hold the bushings on you will see that they are 3 line (grade5), we used grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts just to be sure, the plating is ususally better on the grade 8 also and won't tarnish as fast and look new longer.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by cdowns

all you need to rivet something is a metal rod a torch and a hammer and dolly plus a bit of imagination

If you have that equipment and are familiar with using it then no prob, but for me....well i'm gona put that in the "too hard basket" cdowns

Originally Posted by Green Machine

Added sway bars to two of our trucks, just use grade 5 minimum, (3 lines) or better yet use grade 8, (6 lines). If you look at the factory bolts that hold the bushings on you will see that they are 3 line (grade5), we used grade 8 bolts, lock washers and nuts just to be sure, the plating is ususally better on the grade 8 also and won't tarnish as fast and look new longer.

Green when you say "lines" are you refering to the small lines that I have seen on the heads of the Bolts on my Truck?

[1971 GMC SHORTY]

YOU COULD USE FINE THREAD GRADE 8 AND DOUBLE NUT IT..

[passthebuck]

The parts are only as good as what holds it together. I try & use the best bolt for the job, & that doesn’t necessarily mean using a Grade 8 nut/bolt on everything as they are expensive. You don’t need Grade 8 hardware to hold your glove box door on. (Unless you're REALLY hardcore!) There's a time & a place for the high strength stuff. Your application eightbanger is Grade 8 country. In my sway bar installation, I used Grade 8 bolts with hardened washers & Grade 8 nylon locknuts. I haven’t checked them in a while, but I'm confident they are at what I torqued them to 5 years ago.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx

http://www.americanfastener.com/tech...ings_steel.asp

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...ners/index.asp

[Green Machine]

Yep - basic bolts are grade 2, no lines, have no purpose being used on any vehicle, except maybe some non critical small part fastner. Grade 5 - 3 lines are the most common bolt to use on engine, tranny etc, most all bolts. Grade 8 have 6 lines and should be used where failure is not acceptable or could be a safety problem, suspension etc. Most shock bolts are only grade 5, but they are a fairly large bolt.

Yes, look at the head, no lines=gr 2, 3 lines=gr 5, 6 lines = gr 8. Just take the number of lines and add 2, that will give the grade. Most nuts and locks used with grade 5 are grade 2, thats OK. Step up to the grade 8 and the bolts, locks, nuts and washers all have a yellow plating and are the better stuff.

[texanidiot25]

If you need some Grade 8, and have a friend in the service department of a GM dealership, or just feel lucky, ask if you can buy off some of their stash. GM Dealerships are required to carry Standard bolt sized Grade 8 bolts. But, since all modern cars use Metric bolts, the dealerships rarely use them. I got lucky, and got all my grade 8 bolts for my truck for free. But my dad works in the service department. But you can try and find one that will let you have some for cheap, considering they have no use for standard bolts.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by 1971 GMC SHORTY

YOU COULD USE FINE THREAD GRADE 8 AND DOUBLE NUT IT..

That's an idea! should have tried that. Thanks 71 GMC SHORTY

Originally Posted by passthebuck

The parts are only as good as what holds it together. I try & use the best bolt for the job, & that doesn’t necessarily mean using a Grade 8 nut/bolt on everything as they are expensive. You don’t need Grade 8 hardware to hold your glove box door on. (Unless you're REALLY hardcore!) There's a time & a place for the high strength stuff. Your application eightbanger is Grade 8 country. In my sway bar installation, I used Grade 8 bolts with hardened washers & Grade 8 nylon locknuts. I haven’t checked them in a while, but I'm confident they are at what I torqued them to 5 years ago.

I see what you mean about them being overkill if used in areas where they are not required, and as you say passthebuck i'm definately need of them here. Thank you for the links.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx

http://www.americanfastener.com/tech...ings_steel.asp

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...ners/index.asp

Originally Posted by Green Machine

Yep - basic bolts are grade 2, no lines, have no purpose being used on any vehicle, except maybe some non critical small part fastner. Grade 5 - 3 lines are the most common bolt to use on engine, tranny etc, most all bolts. Grade 8 have 6 lines and should be used where failure is not acceptable or could be a safety problem, suspension etc. Most shock bolts are only grade 5, but they are a fairly large bolt.

Yes, look at the head, no lines=gr 2, 3 lines=gr 5, 6 lines = gr 8. Just take the number of lines and add 2, that will give the grade. Most nuts and locks used with grade 5 are grade 2, thats OK. Step up to the grade 8 and the bolts, locks, nuts and washers all have a yellow plating and are the better stuff.

Green Machine Thank You for your explanation on these Bolts and what the lines mean I had no knowledge of any of this stuff.

Originally Posted by texanidiot25

If you need some Grade 8, and have a friend in the service department of a GM dealership, or just feel lucky, ask if you can buy off some of their stash. GM Dealerships are required to carry Standard bolt sized Grade 8 bolts. But, since all modern cars use Metric bolts, the dealerships rarely use them. I got lucky, and got all my grade 8 bolts for my truck for free. But my dad works in the service department. But you can try and find one that will let you have some for cheap, considering they have no use for standard bolts.

Man if only I had a GM dealership here....I'd think I died and gone to heaven.
Thanks texan.

Well i'm an educated man again....until I find the next thing I don't understand.
I have to say you guys are the best and that goes out to everyone else on our board too.

[jay_shy]

Tractor supply sales grade eight at a reasonable price.

Jason

[truckpoorpackrat]

If you cant find grade 5 or 8 bolts where your at you might try a metric equivalent, a 10.9 or 12.9 stamped on the head of the metric bolt should be close to the same.