Fix the rust or switch the cab?

[kcackler]

I've got a 77 C10 with the usual signs of aging...Rusty rocker panels and rusty floorboards about 2 inches in from each door. I can plainly see the road from the passenger side, and can see the road if I look hard enough from the driver's side.

Now, my problem is that I don't own a welder, and even if I did, I'm not confident enough in my abilities to start replacing such key elements in the cab. Meaning, I'd need to pay a shop to spend some serious man hours repairing the damage.

So I guess the question is: What would be cheaper? Buying a rust free cab and switching it out myself (It's a fairly straight forward process, isn't it?) or paying a shop to repair both floorboards, rocker panels on each side, plus a few other rusted-through spots?

I'm not sure what the going price is for a rust-free 77 cab...

[84 400]

Around here I see cabs going 150 and up. IT is a hard task but nothing beats orginal rust free metal

[kcackler]

Well 150 or even 350 or 450 for original metal doesn't sound bad at all.

I've never had major bodywork done, but I'm guessing that having the rust repaired would run me more than that....

Now I just need to find a good cab around here

[N2TRUX]

If you can find a clean cab you will be miles ahead over fixing what you have. Especially if your having to pay someone to do the work.

My next question would be, would it be better to find a complete rust free truck and build it?

[kcackler]

This particular truck has quite a bit of sentimental value to me, so replacing the whole thing isn't quite as appealing as replacing just part of it.

Besides, the rest of the truck is fairly rust free. It needs a new tailgate that's not pitted, but the rest of the truck is just surface rust...

[Damien]

My dad has the same problem with my grandfather's '72. I will ask you the same question, If you have to replace everything, is it still the same truck? You also have to deal with the vin and registration if you change the cab, however you go about it. If you could post pics, we could offer better advice. I've seen cabs here in Minnesota that people said were junk, and I looked at it and said it was in good fixable shape. I grew up in a bodyshop, so I have a different point of view too.

[billnorman]

A MIG welder can be had for $200.00 or less on sale from Harbor Freight. At first you could start with flux cored wire if you can't afford a bottle and regulator, and change over later. A self-darkening helmet is available for about $40.00. You will be suprised how much you find uses for a welder, before long you will be gluing all kinds of iron parts together. Your neighbors will be asking you for favors. If you DO get one, get one that is 220volt, not 115. They are more steady.

[kcackler]

A mig welder is something I WANT but not something I feel confident enough welding body parts with...

How big of an undertaking is it to replace the rocker panels and floorboards anyway?

My main reason for either paying to have it fixed or replacing the cab altogether is because I just don't want to cut too much metal off or do some other sort of damage to the cab.

[usmc_noma]

why not weld in panels but start with spart panels from a yard or something. that way you can get a steady hand, used to welding, and make better welds. i think it'll have more value to you if you do the work yourself rather than switching the cab. remember when you switch the cab, you've got wires, steering, etc to switch over too.

[kcackler]

That's true and a good point. I think I like that idea better than my original ones...

The question is: How large of an undertaking is it to patch the floor panels and replace the rocker panels/that whole area? It seems like I saw a good write-up on it here somewhere but I can't find it now..

[dammitmitchell]

i learned basic mig welding in about two days or practice.. you would be surprised how easy it is to pick up..
no I AM NOT A PRO or claiming to be.. but hell i can hide my welds with a good sanding disc hehehehe
and i did not paricullary think floor boards were too hard to replace..
i think esxterior panels were harder because i can tell whenever i was or am welding there after i rattle bomb it.. bleh..
and trust me dude we've seen some preeeety ****ty welders post pictures here..
good luck

[kcackler]

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

Now I just have to convince the wife that I NEED a nice mig welder for my birthday

[usmc_noma]

i've never done it before myself, but from seeing work on the net, tv, in person, etc i get the general idea of how it should be done. again i'd do some practice with spare sheet metal if you could get your hands on it.

just make sure not to lay down a continuous weld on thin sheetmetal that way you don't warp it. spotweld takes more time but you'll be happier with the results.

[79gmcc15]

you can get some of this and either cut out what you need or replace the whole thing. it could make things easier for you.
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/me...tegory_Code=C1 plus he is a member and a great guy!

[Damien]

If you are going to buy a welder, spend the money. The off brand welders are hard to get parts for when they brake or wear out. Do not get a flux core welder! They suck for auto body work, because the flux cored wire burns hotter then solid wire. It also leave slag on the weld. Use solid wire with an argon mix gas. 75/25 is a good general purpose. you could also use 95/5 or stargon. I recommend a 110 V welder. You will be able to turn the heat down and not burn through. You should be able to pick one up for about $600. A 220V is going to run more like $1500.

When it comes time to cut the old panel out, lay the new one over it to make sure you have enough metal to at least cover your old material. Cut out the metal you need to replace, THEN cut the replacement panel to fit what you cut out. Just because you have the whole new panel does not mean you need to use the all of it. When you do the rocker panel you will want the door on and aligned so you can check the gaps. the door will probably need to be removed to finish the welding. Sand the welds with a flap wheel or die grinder. Do not use a hard wheel. Use tack welds instead of a continuous bead. fill the entire seam. Do not use body filler to fill in gaps.

[kcackler]

Great tips Damien. I've already added a nice mig welder to my birthday wish list coming up in May. Definitely going to do lots of practice on scrap metal before I start cutting my baby though

[C-10 simplex]

i'm also not very confident when it comes to welding mainly because i've never really done it----the only time was with the type where the wire comes out of the "gun." i did this to try to repair a lawnmover and it still fell apart a few weeks later.

The only way to learn is to try. Therefore i insist you try to fix the cab yourself.

The only reason i have not further pursed welding is because i'm too busy. But this is one of the things that is high on my list once i get enough time and money.

2) If i could branch the steer the topic off a little into a different tangent; We are all probably aware that the medium duty trucks from 73 to 87ish also shared, at least externally/visually, the same cab. i've noticed that u-haul is selling alot of these trucks for cheap--2 grand and under and the cabs are basically rust free.

Will these cabs interchange with the pickup cabs?

[74 C-30]

the C-60 cabs arent a direct swap, they have different floorpans and different firewalls, to make it work is more work than just replaceing the rockers.

I'm in the same boat as you! typical rust and rot ate the cab corners, rockers and the first 2 inches or so on my truck, I really want to fix it but I'm not that confident in my welds yet. plus we have a cheap chinese made MIG welder that has constant power to the wire. a welder with trigger only power is IMO a much better, and more useful machine. just my 2 cents

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by Damien

If you are going to buy a welder, spend the money. The off brand welders are hard to get parts for when they brake or wear out. Do not get a flux core welder! They suck for auto body work, because the flux cored wire burns hotter then solid wire. It also leave slag on the weld. Use solid wire with an argon mix gas. 75/25 is a good general purpose. you could also use 95/5 or stargon. I recommend a 110 V welder. You will be able to turn the heat down and not burn through. You should be able to pick one up for about $600.


A 220V is going to run more like $1500.

All great advise here. You can actually get a 220v welder for under a $1000. You would be looking at a 175/180 amp type machine. Both Lincoln, Miller(Hobart) offer machines is that size range.

check out www.cyberweld.com and see what they carry and a ballpark figure on the machines.

[N2TRUX]

To get a concept of the level of difficulty involved, spend some time in the 67-72 "project" forum. Most of those guys have replaced rockers, cab corners, floorboards, etc.
Yes the cabs are different, but the task is the same.

Keep in mind that you won't be welding the panels with a a bead. They are welded in with a series of spot welds. You keep adding spots till they are all connected together.

I know that doesn't come through very clear, so look at how the 67-72 guys do it and you will see what I mean.

[Damien]

Originally Posted by arkracing

All great advise here. You can actually get a 220v welder for under a $1000. You would be looking at a 175/180 amp type machine. Both Lincoln, Miller(Hobart) offer machines is that size range.

check out www.cyberweld.com and see what they carry and a ballpark figure on the machines.

True. When I think of a 220V welder I think of the larger welders like the Lincon 215 or 255. I think most welding supply stores will let you try the machine before you buy it. At least the one I worked at and the few others I've dealt with did. Also, the salesmen can be very helpful if you tell them what you are planning to use the welder for and can make suggestions.
I don't think you will be able to try out the welders at Home Depot.

[SquareOne]

Sorry to revive the thread, but it covered a lot of questions I have as far as replacing the corner panels and other rust. I still have have a few questions though.

1) What are ya'll using to cut these pieces out? I don't really want to spend the money on a plasma cutter either. Is there a cheaper alternative?

2) I saw the link on the http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com and I'll definetly be looking into that, but are there any brands I should avoid? I've been looking at Goodmark panels as well.

Pretty much, what all would be needed to get rid of the rusty panels, and prevent further rusting, the right way?

[old Rusty C10]

go check the FAQ section and the Autobody section..both sections have many informative articles and instruction, more than one could link here.

[spinem]

buy a cab, but make sure to call the dmv in ur area, may make more issues than good. (call for "a friend" never say your wanting to), they will say well is ur vehicle unsafe blkah blah blah, believe me. been there done that.

[TwoFiftyShifter]

I vote a new cab. I'm up here in the rust belt, and its relatively easy to find an 80's PU with a solid cab. I would replace the cab, if it was a 60s truck, I might vote otherwise as it would be harder to find and more expensive....