How much is a clean, straight, rust-free body worth?

[Loptics]

Gentlemen,

I have a 1972 Cheyenne Super 1/2 ton 4x4 that runs very well with it's 350 engine and TH350 tranny and GM HEI ignition. It's a black and white longbed body that needs some TLC. The body has a "CC" VIN number so I presume it is not original to the frame and running gear. The estimates to restore the body run about $6000-$8000 for labor and about $4000-$5000 for parts, metal, and paint.

In my area I got a tip that someone was selling a mint K20 Camper Special. After a phone call to the owner I learned that the body is also a "CC" VIN code and is not original to the frame. The original 400 V-8 motor is out of the truck, as is the original tranny (TH400?). Both are available "as is". The truck has a 350 with TH350 and Spicer manual hubs.

I went and looked at the truck yesterday, it has the large camper mirrors, running lights on the cab, tool box on the passenger side fleetside, Cheyenne Super trim, green and white paint, with green "sport bench bucket" seats with tach dash, headliner, etc.

To make a long story short, the truck didn't run all that great, it had problems staying in 4-Lo and the tranny dipstick has grease on it where it sticks in the fluid. There is black smoke coming out of the exhaust on startup and idle, and the engine revs too high at idle (1100 rpm). The speedometer doesn't work but the other gauges do.

Oh, but that body. Clean, straight, very little rust; rocker panels, cab corners, cab supports, bed, all nearly cherry. Has the original radio, the defrost/heater/vent controls work perfectly. It is an AC cab with all the parts there to make it work. The seats are comfy, the interior trim/carpet is in very satisfying condition. Just needs painting and some window/door moldings (and sliding rear window latch) and it is about perfect.

What I was thinking is to buy the truck for the body and have a "transplant" done to create my dream truck. Since neither body is original to their respective frames/running gear, I would sleep pretty well.

Problem(?)...he wants $10K for the truck.....is the body worth it?? I don't think the engine/tranny is but with the 3/4 ton axles and 4x4, maybe so?

Any thoughts/opinions/advice are greatly appreciated. I am going to have the truck inspected by a mechanic and autobody guy I know to assist in the decision making.

Thanks!!

Scott

[Myself]

I say no. You could buy a super clean body from the southwest and have it shipped for half that.

[Loptics]

Originally Posted by Myself

I say no. You could buy a super clean body from the southwest and have it shipped for half that.

I'm all ears...how is this accomplished? Any forum vendors that do this?

Also, would $5K be a fair offer? $7500??

[john]

Why do you presume " CC " is not original for a 1972 VIN?

[Hart_Rod]

There's 69 GMC 4 X 4 here in Albuquerque for $4K. I think it's a much better deal than that. JMHO.

R/

http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/1154710554.html

[72freak]

10K it would have to be a CLOSE TO PERFECT TRUCK.

[Loptics]

Originally Posted by john

Why do you presume " CC " is not original for a 1972 VIN?

Not an original 4x4. My understanding is that original 4x4 body VIN began with "CK".

At any rate, the owner admitted the body wasn't original. But mine is still a mystery...

Scott

[70rs/ss]

Look here on the board, or check craigslist and buy then pay a shipper, a long bed 4X4 isn't a very pricey truck and as said for $10k it should be "NICE!" I see longbed 4X4 a lot here in AZ and cheap at that, heck a nice 2wd to just donate the body is cheap here as well.

[special-K]

That truck needs carb work from your description.But $10,000 is too high.I bought a body swap`72 K/20 from Colorado for $5,500 with original paint and more options.

[Joesjunk]

Walk away from that one. Way too much!! You dont really need another 4x4, so just look for a very clean 2wd and swap the body to your 4x4. You should be able to get a real nice 2wd for half of that. Also, you can look at 3/4t 2wd's, they are usually cheaper that 1/2t 2wd's.

[Livrat]

I agree with most of the replies.. walk away from that one!.. In todays economy for 10K it better be darn near perfect and all new!

I would search around and find a nice 2WD truck and do a body swap..

Here locally on craigslist there was a 62k mile one owner 68 GMC that was absolutely beautiful for $4200 and it did not sell.. So I would hold out and see what turns up

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by 72freak

10K it would have to be a CLOSE TO PERFECT TRUCK.

I dont think so. I have a friend that has a close to perfect 68 SB and he has 15000 in it and that is with his free labor

[Livrat]

To help give an idea of values, here are a couple examples of the ones for sale around here...

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/1151791165.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/1153837732.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/1150277765.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1146884208.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1144746966.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/1150703060.html

[Loptics]

You guys are just right on! Thanks for being informative and helpful. Those ads were a big help too. Incidentally, if I don't take it, he said it is going on Craigslist, so we'll see!

I'm going to pick it up on Friday for a mechanical inspection.

Scott

[danw210]

Originally Posted by jbristo67

I dont think so. I have a friend that has a close to perfect 68 SB and he has 15000 in it and that is with his free labor

It doesn't matter what you got in it, it's only worth as much as someone is willing to pay.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by danw210

It doesn't matter what you got in it, it's only worth as much as someone is willing to pay.

Thats true

[El Jay]

I bought 2 "work horses" for less than 2/3 that amount.

Pretty?
Oh hell no!
Dependable and ready to go:?
Oh you betcha.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Loptics

Gentlemen,

I have a 1972 Cheyenne Super 1/2 ton 4x4 that runs very well with it's 350 engine and TH350 tranny and GM HEI ignition. It's a black and white longbed body that needs some TLC. The body has a "CC" VIN number so I presume it is not original to the frame and running gear. The estimates to restore the body run about $6000-$8000 for labor and about $4000-$5000 for parts, metal, and paint.

In my area I got a tip that someone was selling a mint K20 Camper Special. After a phone call to the owner I learned that the body is also a "CC" VIN code and is not original to the frame. The original 400 V-8 motor is out of the truck, as is the original tranny (TH400?). Both are available "as is". The truck has a 350 with TH350 and Spicer manual hubs.

I went and looked at the truck yesterday, it has the large camper mirrors, running lights on the cab, tool box on the passenger side fleetside, Cheyenne Super trim, green and white paint, with green "sport bench bucket" seats with tach dash, headliner, etc.

To make a long story short, the truck didn't run all that great, it had problems staying in 4-Lo and the tranny dipstick has grease on it where it sticks in the fluid. There is black smoke coming out of the exhaust on startup and idle, and the engine revs too high at idle (1100 rpm). The speedometer doesn't work but the other gauges do.

Oh, but that body. Clean, straight, very little rust; rocker panels, cab corners, cab supports, bed, all nearly cherry. Has the original radio, the defrost/heater/vent controls work perfectly. It is an AC cab with all the parts there to make it work. The seats are comfy, the interior trim/carpet is in very satisfying condition. Just needs painting and some window/door moldings (and sliding rear window latch) and it is about perfect.

What I was thinking is to buy the truck for the body and have a "transplant" done to create my dream truck. Since neither body is original to their respective frames/running gear, I would sleep pretty well. I would probably sell off the K20 running gear with my old body for pretty cheap.

Problem(?)...he wants $10K for the truck.....is the body worth it?? I don't think the engine/tranny is but with the 3/4 ton axles and 4x4, maybe so?

Any thoughts/opinions/advice are greatly appreciated. I am going to have the truck inspected by a mechanic and autobody guy I know to assist in the decision making.

Thanks!!

Scott

A couple of things about the K20 you are looking at.
First, General Motors NEVER put a big block in a 4x4 at the factory until AFTER 1972. When you stated the original 400 ci engine is out of the truck I'm guessing you saw 400 on the SPID in the glove box. 400s in 1972 were actually 402 c.i. big blocks and only came in 2wd trucks.
Second, the CC designation on the VIN makes it pretty obvious that this 4x4 already had a body swap done from a 2wd truck. Since the body is nice, somebody already figured it would be easiest to swap it on to their worn out 4x4 chassis.

Without looking at your rig, I would take $1000 of the $10,000 - $13,000 body shop estimate and go to your nearest welding supply store and purchase a MiG welder. Get one with the gas valve and get a bottle of gas. Get an autodarkening helmet while you are there. Then buy your own parts from vendors here and go.

Rockers are $20 plus shipping and take about 2-4 hours to replace. Do them first because most of the welds you have to do are hidden. When you are more comfortable with your welding skill move on to cab corners if you need them. They also sell a "fender cup" for the front of the RF wheel. That spot usually rusts out from being under the battery.

Take another $500-$1000 of that 10k-13k estimate and purchase paint supplies. You can get pretty good HVLP sprayers for $100. You may need to upgrade your compressor for $1000 or so.

Now you know how to weld and paint and you're $7000 - $10,000 richer too.

[jbird76]

take a look on craigslist for Saint George utah. I bought my truck, just a plain 70 c20 that is decently straight with no rust for $450. There are more trucks than you can imagine here, and no snow, salt and rust. Everyone here drives a truck, and the yards are full of them.

[Dave Reed]

Originally Posted by jbird76

take a look on craigslist for Saint George utah. I bought my truck, just a plain 70 c20 that is decently straight with no rust for $450. There are more trucks than you can imagine here, and no snow, salt and rust. Everyone here drives a truck, and the yards are full of them.

You Sir, could make a good living parting those things out to us rust belters.

[Loptics]

Originally Posted by mrein3

A couple of things about the K20 you are looking at.
First, General Motors NEVER put a big block in a 4x4 at the factory until AFTER 1972. When you stated the original 400 ci engine is out of the truck I'm guessing you saw 400 on the SPID in the glove box. 400s in 1972 were actually 402 c.i. big blocks and only came in 2wd trucks.
Second, the CC designation on the VIN makes it pretty obvious that this 4x4 already had a body swap done from a 2wd truck. Since the body is nice, somebody already figured it would be easiest to swap it on to their worn out 4x4 chassis.

Without looking at your rig, I would take $1000 of the $10,000 - $13,000 body shop estimate and go to your nearest welding supply store and purchase a MiG welder. Get one with the gas valve and get a bottle of gas. Get an autodarkening helmet while you are there. Then buy your own parts from vendors here and go.

Rockers are $20 plus shipping and take about 2-4 hours to replace. Do them first because most of the welds you have to do are hidden. When you are more comfortable with your welding skill move on to cab corners if you need them. They also sell a "fender cup" for the front of the RF wheel. That spot usually rusts out from being under the battery.

Take another $500-$1000 of that 10k-13k estimate and purchase paint supplies. You can get pretty good HVLP sprayers for $100. You may need to upgrade your compressor for $1000 or so.

Now you know how to weld and paint and you're $7000 - $10,000 richer too.

I appreciate your "teach a man to fish" mentality, but that isn't going to happen. While I possibly could pick up the welding part, aligning everything and painting properly takes skill and an artists touch. A man's got to know his limitations....and paint and body is one of mine!

Scott

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Loptics

I appreciate your "teach a man to fish" mentality, but that isn't going to happen. While I possibly could pick up the welding part, aligning everything and painting properly takes skill and an artists touch. A man's got to know his limitations....and paint and body is one of mine!

Scott

Good Clint line.

I agree that there are some body guys that are WAY better than you and I put together would ever be - but you have to think about what you are going after.

If you want a girly, lowered in the weeds, useless, trailer queen like a lot of the trucks on this forum - go to the artist. If you want a truck, and I'm guessing with a 4wd K20 and K10 and living in MT this truck may actually see some action the General intended it to have, you're going to use it some - then maybe a not quite perfect door to fender gap or a slightly askew cowl are ok.

Remember the factory tolerances for the gaps on these trucks are one heck of a lot larger than a modern vehicle. You'd be surprised what no previous talent/training can do to a 40 year old truck.

Endeavor to persevere

[special-K]

Originally Posted by jbristo67

I dont think so. I have a friend that has a close to perfect 68 SB and he has 15000 in it and that is with his free labor

You can pay way more than 10,000,too.It`s not like $10,000 is the cap on pricing.It does matter how much you have in it.It`s true a $10,000 truck should have no issues and should be turn-key.I believe that`s what 72freak meant.

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by Loptics

I appreciate your "teach a man to fish" mentality, but that isn't going to happen. While I possibly could pick up the welding part, aligning everything and painting properly takes skill and an artists touch. A man's got to know his limitations....and paint and body is one of mine!

Scott

Even if you did the panel replacement andnot the finish bodywork and paint, you will eliminate the majority of the cost...That is what I do...all of the "rough" work, then take it to my body man.

[Loptics]

Well, had the truck thoroughly inspected by a trusted mechanic AND a paint & body guy.

Both were impressed.

The tie rod ends were shot and the front u-joints need work, and the carb needs work...but that was really all. The body has just a little bit of surface rust in a couple of spots, the original olive -drab color doesn't do much for me, but....it's all original and clean and straight.

The tranny is a TH400.

The 4-Lo problem was a linkage/shifter issue, not a transfer case issue. We resolved it.

All in all, while I agree it's not worth $10K, I think it's worth a bit more than $5K. EVERYTHING works. I may end up buying it and selling my other rig outright, even though I like the way my rig drives better. To swap the bodies on the truck would be $1500

Hmmmmmm decisions decisions...

Scott