help with western chassis spindles!!!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 12-28-2002, 07:50 PM

we got the spindles and springs on, but when we try to put the calipers back on, they wont fit. whats the deal. i got the 2.5" drop spindles and we really have no clue what the problem is.

**swervin ervin** · 12-28-2002, 07:55 PM

I say you have spindles for 1-1/4" rotors and your old ones are 1". Sucks, but if you keep the spindles, you will need new rotors and calipers.

Just a real good guess.

low 84 · 12-28-2002, 09:08 PM

check your break lines. i had the same problem with mine. the hard metal part of the break line that comes out of the back of the caliper was keeping the caliper from sliding on. i just carefully rebent them so they would fit. i can't remember exactly but i think the break line on the back of the caliper was hitting the upper ball joint bolt and thats what was keeping it from going on.

if the problem is just that the pads are to close together to allow it to slip over the caliper, take the pads off, put a peice of wood or metal across the piston in the caliper and use a c-clamp to press the piston into the caliper to give you more room to slide the calipers on. be aware though that when you are pressing the piston back into the caliper it will force more break fluid into the master cylinder resevor so you will need to dish some out if you don't want it to over flow.

if mikes idea is right i would try to find a number on the spindles and call western and have them confirm they are the right ones.

ocbaud · 12-28-2002, 09:20 PM

wrong!!! we got them on with a sledge hammer

but now my passanger side is leaning a lot more than the drivers side. i made sure to put the springs in the correct way also.

low 84 · 12-28-2002, 09:32 PM

c/mon man i know you have a digi cam. where are the pics?

**swervin ervin** · 12-28-2002, 09:42 PM

I guess a sledge hammer is one way of installing calipers. Although, I don't think I'll be trying it anytime soon. Do the rotors turn?

For the body lean, drive it. The spriings will seat and it will be even, or at least it should anyway.

ocbaud · 12-28-2002, 10:50 PM

yeah. actually, the brakes seem a lot more responsive now. but we are having trouble getting the shock extenders on the back now. we're gonna take a break until tommorow and then finish it up.

**swervin ervin** · 12-28-2002, 11:33 PM

*1FaastC10* · 12-28-2002, 11:34 PM

and you leave us PICTURELESS??!?!?!?! WTF?! i suppose you're gonna use some lame excuse like "i'm sick, and i dont feel good" crybaby.

Prerunner1982 · 12-28-2002, 11:38 PM

mike, thats what we thought they were suppose to look like.. did you have to pry at it to get them on? the extention and the current shock mount on the same width and such.

ocbaud · 12-29-2002, 12:17 AM

okay guys, the hardest part of today was the drivers side tie rod end, it took me 1 hour to get it out of the spindle and after that i had to replace it because the only way i could get it out of the spindle was to hit the threaded area with the sledge hammer, which therefore smushed the threads.

oh, and the coils springs where NO problem, i lowered the LCA down all the way and the spring wouldnt fall out, i had to pull the control arm down and then pull the spring out with my hand. it never jumped out at me. oh, and the ball joints where EASY

ocbaud · 12-29-2002, 12:17 AM

oh, and what is the best way to get the bump stop off of the back?

**swervin ervin** · 12-29-2002, 12:30 AM

The extensions were tight, but not overly so. I didn't need to pry them apart if this is what you are asking. Sort of lined them up and pecked them in place with a hammer.

**swervin ervin** · 12-29-2002, 12:30 AM

Oh and Eric, why not delete the other posts?

ocbaud · 12-29-2002, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by swervin ervin
The extensions were tight, but not overly so. I didn't need to pry them apart if this is what you are asking. Sort of lined them up and pecked them in place with a hammer.

hmm.... well, the current mount, and the extenders are the same width, so the only way to get it on would be to pry the extenders apart

ocbaud · 12-29-2002, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by swervin ervin
Oh and Eric, why not delete the other posts?

well crap, i guess i just didnt know how to before! i'm tired, so i have an excuse

low 84 · 12-29-2002, 01:09 AM

i'm glad the ball joints came off easy for you, they can be a real pain.

sometimes you can take a nut and thread it halfway on to the tie rod joint and the hit the nut with the hammer and as long as you don't have to really lay into it with the hammer it can pop it loose and save the threads.

solidaxel · 12-30-2002, 12:37 AM

What are these shock extenders?? Why didn't you just use a shorter shock!!!

ocbaud · 12-30-2002, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by solidaxel
What are these shock extenders?? Why didn't you just use a shorter shock!!!

i will when i get the money

right now i'm not using the shock extenders because i couldnt get them on there

when i come into the money a c notch and shocks are next

12-28-2002, 07:50 PM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	help with western chassis spindles!!!!! we got the spindles and springs on, but when we try to put the calipers back on, they wont fit. whats the deal. i got the 2.5" drop spindles and we really have no clue what the problem is.

12-28-2002, 07:55 PM	#2
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	I say you have spindles for 1-1/4" rotors and your old ones are 1". Sucks, but if you keep the spindles, you will need new rotors and calipers. Just a real good guess. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

12-28-2002, 09:08 PM	#3
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	check your break lines. i had the same problem with mine. the hard metal part of the break line that comes out of the back of the caliper was keeping the caliper from sliding on. i just carefully rebent them so they would fit. i can't remember exactly but i think the break line on the back of the caliper was hitting the upper ball joint bolt and thats what was keeping it from going on. if the problem is just that the pads are to close together to allow it to slip over the caliper, take the pads off, put a peice of wood or metal across the piston in the caliper and use a c-clamp to press the piston into the caliper to give you more room to slide the calipers on. be aware though that when you are pressing the piston back into the caliper it will force more break fluid into the master cylinder resevor so you will need to dish some out if you don't want it to over flow. if mikes idea is right i would try to find a number on the spindles and call western and have them confirm they are the right ones. __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's Last edited by low 84; 12-28-2002 at 09:10 PM.

12-28-2002, 09:32 PM	#5
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	c/mon man i know you have a digi cam. where are the pics? __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

12-28-2002, 09:42 PM	#6
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	I guess a sledge hammer is one way of installing calipers. Although, I don't think I'll be trying it anytime soon. Do the rotors turn? For the body lean, drive it. The spriings will seat and it will be even, or at least it should anyway. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

12-28-2002, 09:20 PM	#4
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	wrong!!! we got them on with a sledge hammer but now my passanger side is leaning a lot more than the drivers side. i made sure to put the springs in the correct way also.

12-28-2002, 10:50 PM	#7
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	yeah. actually, the brakes seem a lot more responsive now. but we are having trouble getting the shock extenders on the back now. we're gonna take a break until tommorow and then finish it up.

12-28-2002, 11:33 PM	#8
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	__________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

12-28-2002, 11:34 PM	#9
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	and you leave us PICTURELESS??!?!?!?! WTF?! i suppose you're gonna use some lame excuse like "i'm sick, and i dont feel good" crybaby.

12-28-2002, 11:38 PM	#10
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,906	mike, thats what we thought they were suppose to look like.. did you have to pry at it to get them on? the extention and the current shock mount on the same width and such. __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

12-29-2002, 12:17 AM	#11
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	okay guys, the hardest part of today was the drivers side tie rod end, it took me 1 hour to get it out of the spindle and after that i had to replace it because the only way i could get it out of the spindle was to hit the threaded area with the sledge hammer, which therefore smushed the threads. oh, and the coils springs where NO problem, i lowered the LCA down all the way and the spring wouldnt fall out, i had to pull the control arm down and then pull the spring out with my hand. it never jumped out at me. oh, and the ball joints where EASY

12-29-2002, 12:30 AM	#13
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	The extensions were tight, but not overly so. I didn't need to pry them apart if this is what you are asking. Sort of lined them up and pecked them in place with a hammer. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

12-29-2002, 01:09 AM	#17
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	i'm glad the ball joints came off easy for you, they can be a real pain. sometimes you can take a nut and thread it halfway on to the tie rod joint and the hit the nut with the hammer and as long as you don't have to really lay into it with the hammer it can pop it loose and save the threads. __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

12-30-2002, 12:37 AM	#18
solidaxel Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Cactus Patch So. Az Posts: 4,749	What are these shock extenders?? Why didn't you just use a shorter shock!!! __________________ 53 TuTone Extended Cab 350 4-Spd 3:08 (SOLD) 53 Chevy Moldy pearl green ZZ-4 4L60E 9" 3:25 55 GMC 1st Black Mll (ZZ4) ZZ6 TKO 600 5 sp 3:73 62 Solidaxle Corvette Roman Red (327 340hp 4spd 3:36) C4 & C5 suspension tube chassis LS 3 4L70E 65 Corvette Coupe 327 350hp 4spd 4:11 78 Black Silverado SWB (350/350) 5.3 & 4L60E 3:42 2000 S-Type 3.0 (wife cruiser) 2003 GMC SCSB 5.3 4L60E 3:42



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