Clutch movement

[hchad18]

I am installing a M-21 car trans into my 71. I am fabricating the lower linkage because I am using the car clutch fork. My question is how much pedal movement does it actually take to disengage the clutch? I've installed different bucket seats and the clutch pedal is to high so I want to adjust it so its lower (closer to the firewall) but I don't want to not have enough throw to disengage the clutch. My experience is, is that it's not always required to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.

[dznucks]

Your going to have to shorten or lengthen your linkages to your clutch.

I am assuming there is some sort of pivot shaft with two arms on it. those two arms might need to be re-clocked, but you are going to have to shorten the top arm (coming from the pedal) and lengthen your bottom arm (going to the clutch) to get the pedal action you are looking for.

I am not sure but a hydraulic clutch might be better for your situation.

[special-K]

I`d say it`s trial and error on this approach.I know with staying all 3spd truck parts it`s a shoe-in.Is this direction with the car arm to get the peddle closer to the floor?

[hchad18]

The 3 speed truck arm, the muncie bell housing and the dust shield didn't really fit right, that's why I used the car arm. I got it on last night and tried it with a shorter throw and the clutch felt like it had pressure on it all the way to the floor. Most clutches I've felt there seems to be a point in the travel that you get past that spring pressure, usually all the way to the firewall. I lengthened the throw and it felt right. Looks like I'll have to change it another way like maybe the hydraulic clutch like dznucks said.

[bowtie72]

Your clutch should be adjusted by free travel not by where it releases. This assures that there is not pressure on your throw out bearing all the time. My rule of thumb has always been an inch and a half free travel. If your fork rides on the bearing it will wear the bearing out faster.