bad u joints???

[84 400]

Got a noise and vibe aound 30+ mph. also got a funy vibe when turning on an onramp. I think its the axle u joints but can't confirm. How would I go about checking them? This is a 1977 K10 FULL TIME 4x4.

Thanks for any input. Also does anyone know what size socket with those funky teeth is used to remove the axle nut on the hub??

[trenchwarfare]

check how much play is in them? just get under and move them up down and side to side. more grease always helps too.

[Prong]

Now you've got a good excuse to tear down the hubs to pack bearings. There's really not enough play between the axle shafts and the spindle to see how much slop you have unless they're completely roached. As far as the socket goes, your local Napa/Checker/Pep Boys, etc. should have that socket for about $20. I think there's 3 or so different sizes depending on axles, but the one I bought lists applications they work on.

[LONGHAIR]

If you are talking about a "vibe" in the steering wheel, yes it could very well be one of the axle joints. Over time they can get stiff from rust, since the factory joints are not greasable. It might only be one side, but you might as well take care of both "while you are in there". There are greasable replacements available now (at least from Spicer)
Prong is correct about using this oppertunity to service your wheel bearings too. Also you need to be aware that there is a small bearing and seal inside the spindle itself, where the axle goes through. There is also a seal on the axle flange that goes against the back of the spindle. This large seal can sometimes be re-used, but the inner spindle bearing will almost always need to be replaced.
This is a lot of work, but none of it is too hard/complicated. The only really tough part is getting the spindles off. The rest we can talk you through from right here........

I would also recommend that you consider a part-time conversion kit for the transfer case and a set of lock-out hubs. This will make a huge differene in the way the truck drives. It takes a lot of the drivetrain load from the engine, so the truck drives much more "freely" like it is lighter and has more power. There are very few full-time trucks still running around un-converted anymore because of the difference it makes.

[84 400]

are the factory joints plastic injected???

thanks

[Prong]

Not to my knowledge, however you need a BFH to get 'em out. Or you can cheat like I did and have the machine shop press the out. I did this after breaking a vise (used as a press) trying to get them out.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by 84 400

are the factory joints plastic injected???

thanks

No, they should have a metal "C" clip on the inside of the yoke. They need to be removed before pressing.

[trenchwarfare]

Originally Posted by Prong

Not to my knowledge, however you need a BFH to get 'em out. Or you can cheat like I did and have the machine shop press the out. I did this after breaking a vise (used as a press) trying to get them out.

Yeah... The original plastic injected ones really need to be torched to get the muck out.

[84 400]

Okay so did the u joint and ordeed a bearing kit from napa. the axle shaft had play in it so I suspect that smaller bearing had failed. Did the u joint repacked and put it all back together since the bearing kit does not come till Monday I got some trails to hit tomorrow. The job went like butter nothing put up too much of a fight except when reinstalling the locking ring. after toqruqing to spec the ring needed the nut rotated to fit. ether way redoing them on Monday should not be too bad.

u know how it goes tho... when things go to easy something always happens. Well i ended up wire wheeling my skin off. Where it is blood red is where my skin used to be. I respect my grinder again and will make sure not to try one handed gridning ever again... I am lucky it was not a grinding wheel.

Anyways thanks again for all the input guys it made this a lot easier!

[LONGHAIR]

Ouch, don't do that!

By "locking ring" you are refering to the one with the holes that goes between the spindle nuts? If so a lot of times you can just turn the ring over and put it in the other way. The holes are slightly off-set from the key, so they line-up differently. Also, if you still have to move the inner nut to get it lined-up, always loosen it. As the bearings heat up while driving, they will tighen slightly. If they are already too tight, it just makes everything worse. They get hotter than they would have, which makes them tighter.....vicious cycle, leading to a melt-down.

[andrewmp6]

The spindle nut i was always told you torque it down then back it off tell the pin hole lines up.

[LONGHAIR]

I have always backed-up about a quarter turn and then try the washer. If it doesn't fit, pull it out and turn it over. If it still doesn't fit, back it off some more, but as little as possible.

[84 400]

Now I got a louder noise
from around 10 mph on up when ur one the gas and let off. The hubs are not hot so I do not think the bearings are to tight. Any ideas