Hope not to bore everybody but... A/C

[BigRedSled1985]

not to bore the crap out everyone with yet another a/c question, i did look through the search forums a couple of different ways (ie.. different search words) and cannot get a good idea of whether this will work or not... sooooo, here i am!

my A/C system worked great until i popped a hose off the compressor while doing an intake and carb swap five years ago. The freon (original R12) blew all over the carport at my parents' house and at the time hooking it back up was not a big deal as the truck had just become my 2nd vehicle, so i pulled the compressor and hoses off, capped the silver cylinder up at the firewall with cover and blocked off the hose inputs, and never ran the heat or a/c again. Keep in mind, sicne then the truck sat in the front yard for four years.

now my wife is driving the truck to work for a bit, and i need to get the a/c working to avoid going insane from the constant stream of "its' hot in that truck!!!" i want to know if i get a new compressor and hoses from LMC or wherever, and take it to a a/c shop to retrofit into R-134a, is the rest of the system going to be okay? what other parts might have suffered from long years of no use? should i go ahead and replace other parts that are VERY liable to leak, and what parts would those be? evap/in-dash lines? and is it possible to get enough freon in a few of those refill kits at autozone and would it be cheaper to do the refill that way myself vs. getting a shop to hook it up and pump it full for me?

thanks in advance for help and assistance!!

shaun

[AceX]

O-rings, dryer, compressor, and a snesor for the new dryer are all that is needed. No modifications or changes to the box inside the cab, on the firewall, the hoses, or the condenser.

Maybe I should do a write-up on this too...

[justpball]

+1 what he said^ + a new oraface tube. ?Spelling^???

[BigRedSled1985]

thanks for the input you two!! will add those to the list of necessary items to get ahold of and plan this out so hopefully i can get it done before the REALLY hot summer weather gets to mid AL this year!

shaun

[BigRedSled1985]

anothe quick add-- what is the dryer? is that the evaporator? and since i was dumb enough to leave the condenser sitting open after disconnecting everything, should i blow it out with air or water or something before hooking up the new lines?

thanks again for the help and input!

shaun

[slimneverdies]

no boring question especially cause I need too know also.

[bumslie75]

There is a freon called freeze 12 you wont have to convert it over it works the same as r12

[truckfan]

i'd change the o rings on the back of the compressor, change the orfice tube (in line below the dryer on the hose), maybe change the dryer and hook it all back up. find "a guy" who has a vaccuum pump and suck it down. that will get a lot of the crap out of the condensor etc. then, retro fit it to 134. i have retrofitted 4 or 5 trucks/cars and am always amazed at how slick it works.

i have used freeze 12 on occasion when i needed a can or so. i dont think i'd reccommend filling the whole system w/ it. its flammable and not a great option

[silvereagle07]

Originally Posted by BigRedSled1985

anothe quick add-- what is the dryer? is that the evaporator? and since i was dumb enough to leave the condenser sitting open after disconnecting everything, should i blow it out with air or water or something before hooking up the new lines?

thanks again for the help and input!

shaun

The dryer is the cylinder you were referring to just outside of the evap box on the firewall. The evaporator is under the dash. Don't blow anything out with water or air. There is small amount of oil in the condensor and lines. Replace the parts and take it to a shop to pull a vacuum on the system and fill it with the proper amount of R134a. If you don't put the correct amount (too little or too much) , the truck will not cool well.

[Slonaker]

I would flush the condensor and any other part (except the compressor) that was left open, including the hoses. There's no telling what might be in there that could damage other components.

Use flush (auto parts stores should have it by the quart or gallon) and compressed air until the flush flows out clear. Pour it in one opening and use the compressed air to push it through and out the other. You may have to bust open a few connections to get to everything.

Make sure you replace the orifice tube. It is only about $3 or so.

Slonaker

[silvereagle07]

Sorry I just reread my post. I was trying to say don't blow out any compnents with water or air alone. It will not allow the contaminents to come out of the components without loosening them with the flush solution. Sorry again.

[BigRedSled1985]

thanks VERY much for the expanded and additional answers! will let ya'll know how it goes when we get started on it in the next few weeks!

shaun