American Auto Wire

[CG]

I just got my wiring kit from Musclerodz. I had no idea it had so much stuff in it. The box it comes in is the size of a briefcase. I just did a cursory look through it (didnt wanna lose stuff). This thing is first class all the way, even has a new ignition switch with keys.

When I get to the point of putting it in Ill post up some pics. From first look through Id highly recommend this set up, and get it from Musclerodz he sells it for a nice price.

[Tom Vogel]

Which kit did you get?

[my67chevytruck]

My buddy's shop uses AAW exclusively..... nice product for sure, what kit did you use the 69-72 retrofit?

[Leo70]

Originally Posted by CG

I just got my wiring kit from Musclerodz. I had no idea it had so much stuff in it. The box it comes in is the size of a briefcase. I just did a cursory look through it (didnt wanna lose stuff). This thing is first class all the way, even has a new ignition switch with keys.

When I get to the point of putting it in Ill post up some pics. From first look through Id highly recommend this set up, and get it from Musclerodz he sells it for a nice price.

CG, I got my set from Mike also,the best part is that everything is pretty much plug and play to the original factory stuff ( Brakes, steering column etc.). The only thing I had to wire (peeling and splicing wires) was for the back tail lights, because of the side markers. I got mine about 5 months ago and It took me 1 weekend to wire under the dash, the cab and the back tail lights. I just need the front and engine once I'm ready.

Leo.

[lks dcvn]

I was looking to get this down the road - got any pix of the setup - the only pix online are the same one (the layout pic).

[OldCreek]

Yeah, I got my "suitcase" also. Impressive. And, all the different "sections" are separated in their own bag.

Any hints on the best way to cut the firewall? Mine's already painted.

[100mph]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

Yeah, I got my "suitcase" also. Impressive. And, all the different "sections" are separated in their own bag.

Any hints on the best way to cut the firewall? Mine's already painted.

I've got mine about half installed - great kit w/ just about everything you could ask for.

I was fortunate to have the engine out when cutting the fire wall so just zipped a bit off the right side and bottom with the cut off wheel - you don't need to cut much but could see it being a bit tricky from inside - maybe a die grinder??

They give you a nice template to follow...

[eightbanger]

CG, get that camera out now, we need pics right from the git-go. How's it look in the briefcase size box?

[vegaschevy]

PICS!!!!

[CG]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Which kit did you get?

Here is a link to the kit on his webiste
http://musclerodzstore.com/index.asp...rodID=806&HS=1

Hmm I just noticed that said Chevelle...I really need to wear my glasses more often. It is the same kit except its for truck...lemme see if I can find it.

Ok, try this...http://musclerodzstore.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=689

[OldCreek]

I'll try to contribute...

Also, a pic of how much the firewall needs to be cut.

[eightbanger]

Why do you need to cut the firewall OldCreek....is it not a direct replacement?

[petey-pablo]

That kit looks good and very impressive BUT I am No Fan Of Cutting the Firewall at all Someone has to come up with a better way to do it. I am sure I aint the only one that wouldn't cut the firewall Thats just like cutting the Dash for a new stereo Wouln't do that neither but thats just me.................

[OldCreek]

It is NOT a direct replacement. That bummed me out also. Painless is NOT a direct replacement either. I'm not sure what is.

Also, you have to drill two new holes to mount the fuse panel.

I don't know why they cant make direct replacements....

[vegaschevy]

I personally do not want a direct replacement. I want to be able to add an alarm, power windows, door locks or poppers, have better access to stereo wire, etc.

Its a little hole in the firewall, hell I am getting ready to trim my drip rails, smooth my firewall, etc. Seems like a no brainer to cut a small hole.

[lks dcvn]

That does seem strange that they would go through the hassle of making it so complete - and then ask you to cut the firewall to install it...interesting...

[100mph]

The firewall needs to be cut for the newer blade style fuse panel - its just larger.

I think this kit and most others are just using a standard 'new style' somewhat generic fuse box that unfortunately has a bigger opening than the old glass fuse one.

Personally I'd much rather cut the fire wall a bit to modernize the electrical system and add the ability for power locks/windows, alarms, amps, upgrade headlights etc.

If you're doing a restoration and have the fenders off or the motor out its really quite easy. If not it might be a bit more work but certainly not more than an hours job to cut it from the inside

my $0.02

[CG]

If your wiring is fine, or if your doing a 100% resto don't use an aftermarket set up like this.

But if you're like me and have stripped every last spec of wire off your truck and all you have is a bare shell this is a perfect way to go.

Or maybe your 40 year old truck has had quite a few previous owners that have managed to cobble the heck out of the wiring over 30 plus years, and you are having constant electrical problems...this would be a good way to go.

Personally I couldn't care less if someone cuts their dash, cut a big ol round hole in there and install flashing neon smiley face Opening up the fire wall a tiny bit to put this kit in to have all new and modernized wiring is a no brainer to me.

But like we always say...To each their own...If we all agreed on everything, what a boring world this would be =)

[Musclerodz]

You can't consider this kit a direct replacement anyways since you have to terminate alot of the connectors yourself. Original fuseboxes are not like most the other fuse boxes used during the 60's and 70's thus requiring to have to trim the hole. Many cars using this same box do not require trimming the firewall.

You can buy direct replacement harness kits, but you are going to pay twice as much as this kit costs and will not handle upgrades very well, and still use the glass fuses.

Kit was designed to provide an electrical system for a vehicle with anticipated upgrades, providing safe operation of those components and ease of installation

[Wilson_]

It says 69-72
Will there be a kit for the 67-68?

It looks like a very complete kit and if it work for a 67 I will get one when I replace mine.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by Wilson_

It says 69-72
Will there be a kit for the 67-68?

It looks like a very complete kit and if it work for a 67 I will get one when I replace mine.

Kit will work for the 67-68 trucks with some concessions. Main one being it does not come with the turn signal connectors for the 67-68 trucks. Also suppose to be an issue with the e-brake placement but have not confirmed that problem yet.

[ARKSTEPSIDE]

Guys,

I have talked to Ron Francis via e-mail and he says the weakest area is the factory bulkhead. It was originally put in by manufactures to cut down on wiring mistakes. He says when he first got started he worked , I believe at a dealership doing work around splices ,because so many cars and trucks had short problems in the area. If you look at alot of vehicles , you will notice a many are melted in these areas. Ron suggests using a flat plate and drilling wire holes thru the plate and using rubber grommets to seal them off. That way you can wire directly into the back of the fuse box. He sent me a wiring catalog with a lot of info about correct crimping and connections etc. He has also introduced a magnetic base fuse box that can be pulled out so you can work on it or replace fuses without having to get under the dash. I suggest going to his site and checking everything out. A lot of what he says makes sense !!!

[OldCreek]

I installed the under dash harness/fuse box today....PIECE OF CAKE! I agree with the plug 'n play comment.

[msgross]

I talked with donny from AAW a few times. He swears up and down that you'll have issues with a 67/68 due to the box orientation, wiper location, and e-brake. This is the guy that designed the system so I take him for his word.

He suggested that if i want plug and play then they have a kit for that, it's $800 though! Same price for M&H, but you get all connectors and can choose HEI and alternator upgrades with it.