Clutch problem

[brew8]

I'm putting together a 62 truck and using a hydralic clutch. My clutch pedal when depressed goes past the spring and sticks to the floor. Should there be a stop for it or a different spring location or another spring that brings it back? It acts like it goes past the spring and flops over, I hope that makes sense, any advise would be appreciated, thanks, Larry

[Ghostwhite]

bump

Mine is doing the same thing. It will go to the floor then come back only about 3 inches and stop. It works like a normal clutch with only 3 inches of travel, I can pull it past the "sticky" point back up to the normal resting position but it doesnt start disengaging the clutch until i push it down to the 3 inch mark.

[slepysal]

Does your clutch work? How is the brake fluid ?

[padresag]

look at both the m/c part and at the slave cyl and see if you see fluid leaking. if you an smell brake fluid inside the cab that is where it is coming from. check fluid level. check the slave cyl also for being tight on it's mounting. It is badly out of adjustment or the clutch itself has seen better days
ron

[Ghostwhite]

Well I know for sure I have a leak in the master cylinder but figured the clutch acting up may be unrelated. I have a rebuild kit en route so we'll wait and see if that cures it.

I havent been able to find any kind of manual from haynes or chilton. whats a good service manual for these trucks?

btw it is a 62

[brew8]

Mine is all new, I'm going to use the clutch pedal I have from an 63 truck but put the short throw arm on it for the hydralic clutch, it has the spring in a different place then put a good strong spring at the clutch slave, Larry

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

Well I know for sure I have a leak in the master cylinder but figured the clutch acting up may be unrelated. I have a rebuild kit en route so we'll wait and see if that cures it.

I havent been able to find any kind of manual from haynes or chilton. whats a good service manual for these trucks?

btw it is a 62

the factory one is your best bet. Your brake and clutch share the same master cylinder, as well as the brake fluid, so chances are you are losing clucht presure as a result of your bad master. Keep us posted

[brew8]

Double post

[padresag]

Originally Posted by brew8

Mine is all new, I'm going to use the clutch pedal I have from an 63 truck but put the short throw arm on it for the hydralic clutch, it has the spring in a different place then put a good strong spring at the clutch slave, Larry

changing the pedal and installing a stronger spring is not going to solve your problem, just mask it

now did you bleed your clutch cylinder good enough. you also may have to adj the throw of the cyl and like I said previously, your clutch may have seen better days
ron

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

Well I know for sure I have a leak in the master cylinder but figured the clutch acting up may be unrelated. I have a rebuild kit en route so we'll wait and see if that cures it.

I havent been able to find any kind of manual from haynes or chilton. whats a good service manual for these trucks?

btw it is a 62

they are pretty straight forward; there may be an exploded diaghram with the kit. just put it back together the way that it comes apart. the critical part is if the cyls are badly pitted or not and if they can clean up with a hone. if not you should replace them, so so rip the plastic bag apart in the kit unless you have to take it back and get cyls
when you get to it and have any problems someone here should be able to give you a hand
ron

[Ghostwhite]

Well I put the brake side rebuild kit in and popped it back in and managed to stop the leak but its doing the same exact thing. I think it may have something to do with the rod arm side of the pivot assembly(the rod that goes across the steering column) being loose and too ground down to get a solid connection, the arm moves a little on the shaft and the mc rod may be out of adjustment.

What is the best way to bleed the clutch lines and MC, and adjust the engagement rod?

I am also having problems with the brakes... It stopped leaking but i have to pump for a while before i get any brakes and if I stop pumping for more than 10 seconds it loses its pressure and becomes a wet noodle again. sound like a bleeding problem or mc??

[padresag]

you have air in the system and you have to bleed the air out and that removes the spongienss of the peddle . it usually is a 2 person job unless you have access to a power bleeder. I have to run but will get back to you later
ron

[Ghostwhite]

Well I put the brake side rebuild kit in and popped it back in and managed to stop the leak but its doing the same exact thing. I have the rebuild kit for the clutch on order. I think it may have something to do with the rod arm side of the pivot assembly(the rod that goes across the steering column) being loose and too ground down to get a solid connection, the arm moves a little on the shaft and the mc rod may be out of adjustment.

What is the best way to bleed the clutch lines and MC, and adjust the engagement rod?

I am also having problems with the brakes... It stopped leaking but i have to pump for a while before i get any brakes and if I stop pumping for more than 10 seconds it loses its pressure and becomes a wet noodle again. sound like a bleeding problem or mc??

[padresag]

just "google", how to bleed brakes and how to bleed clutch , there is all the info that you need and it saves me from having to write it all down for you
ron

[Ghostwhite]

I know how to bleed the brakes, I was just avoiding having to do it if I didnt have too due to working alone most of the time. I'll round up a buddy and get that done.

I dont think I'll be able to bleed the clutch due to the pedal sticking to the floor the way it does... The big return spring is whats holding it down. It passes the furthest tension point when you depress the pedal down and starts pulling it towards the floor instead of returning it towards your foot. Like I said before the linkage is messed up I and has some freeplay. I'm more worried about proper pedal and linkage adjustment then bleeding the clutch.

[padresag]

bleed it first then do the other afterwards. just like the brakes have to be bled before you get a pedal. the linkage parts need to be replcad if you have some good ones around but that is unlikely. next step is to weld up where it has worn down and clean it back to irig shape and size. holes can be drilled out to take a new round blank, weld it in and clean up the weld and then drill a new hole. then adj the slave cyl pushrod to take up the rest of the slack, about 3/4" free play on top of the pedal.
that spring and linkage has been in there and doing the job for almost 50 years so is the spring getting stronger and overpowering the rest of it? no. just think about it
ron

[Ghostwhite]

heres what parts are worn. where part A clamps on part B



this is the best way to describe why my pedal sticks to the floor.
position 1, 2, 3, and 4 are the clutch pedal in various positions. The spring is the straight line colored green or red. positions 1 and 2 are during normal operation. 3 is where my pedal stops. once the springs path passes the clutch pivot (middle square) it starts to pull the clutch arm in the opposite direction. position 4 is exaggerated to better show this concept

[padresag]

replace the bushings. if you can't buy them they would not be that hard to make , either plastic or brass. do the bleeding first and then see. they all have to be done so use process of elimination, but as soon as you bleed the clutch you will see an improvement
ron

even when you disconnect manual linkage the clutch pedal sometimes goes to the floor

[Ghostwhite]

well I got it sorta figured out. the push rod-side arm of the clutch linkage is worn too badly and the arm moves on the shaft. I'm gonna have to have it welded solid and go from there. I bled the slave pretty good but the clutch is too worn down from the arm slipping for it to help much.

My plan is install the clutch mc rebuild kit when i get it tomorrow, then get the arm welded to the shaft and get a new clutch installed. If that doesnt fix it I don't think anything will haha