Should I keep it ol school or new?(EFI or Carb. motor)

[allen123]

Ok Im going to be getting a new motor pretty soon because the vibration is getting pretty bad and im tired of having to but new brackets and mounts because it always breaks them
Here is what im thinking about doing
My cousin is really good with motors and he said he could wire up a late model motor (im thinking about a LT or Vortec)
Or should I just stick with a carberated motor?

Just looking for some opinions

[vectorit]

Personally I'd keep it simple.
If I want complicated, I'll work on something new.
One of the cool things about these old trucks is the pure simplicity of them.

Just me talkin...

[utvaquero59]

I'm just finishing a 3-month long project swapping in a Caprice TBI 350 into my truck.

Granted, I only have time to work on it a couple hours each night and most Saturdays so the actual hours are less than 3 months would seem.

The physical motor swap is easy as pie but, for me, the devil was in the wiring details, routing wiring, trimming it to length, making all the correct connections, etc. I still have the TCC, VSS and ALDL to finish wiring but the motor finally runs and I know it'll be well worth it.

The Caprice is heavier than my truck and they still got 18-22 mpg so I expect the same or better out of the old girl.

Would I do it again? He!! yes, except for one small change--a Cummins 6BT or ISB in place of the 350!

[culp7]

keep it carb

[BigCarl]

I have gone through a Jeep YJ and a Brand New Hyundai Tiburon. No effing way I am going back to anything with a computer. No effing way.

Granted, you will get better fuel economy with a new computerized fuel injected engine, but, when buying parts for it you are going to spend just as much.

I installed a stereo in my tib and thought, screw it, I am going to leave the inner door panels off until tomorrow after work... attempted to start the engine and believe it or not, the car would not start without the inner door panels installed. (All they have on them is a red clearance light and switches for the mirrors, power windows and hatch.)

Newer engines have plastic parts INSIDE them too.

We had a crew cab Chevy with a 494 in it for a Civy pattern here at the Armories. (I am in the Canadian Forces.) There was some sort of plastic grommet that blew inside the engine and the vehicle wouldn't start. So, they had to pull the whole engine apart and rebuild it for a part that cost $2.56 from the dealership.

For me, the vehicle I ride is going to be all metal from now on. My Jeep's wiper switch broke. Molded plastic... Could only get it from the dealership. $149.00 for a friggin piece of plastic.

Stay old school. Stay simple. There. Done.

[69sixpackbee]

I went with a coupla iterrations of EFI on my 402. I started with a Megasquirt several years back. I used a 670 CFM TBI unit. It was a tuning headache but I got it sorted out. Worked **okay** but it was not stellar. I then adapted to the same setup using RBob's EBL Flash. Real good interface utilizing a reworked factory GM ECU. New learning curve in programming but similar coding since that is what was adopted by Bowling and Grippo in the Megasquirt platform. Ran good as well but because I would run my tanks dry before switching (sometimes) EFI is a PITA when this happens. I just felt that for simplicity sake I went back to the Q'jet and HEI. It runs great...still and has just about the same fuel economy..or lack therof...as I had running EFI.

If it were me I would keep the carbie. The "Wow!" factor of seeing F.I under the hood of these trucks wore off real quick. I guess a sequential port-injected setup would be better but still too many variables and things to go wrong.

...my $.02
Bud

[big_al_71]

My answer see below:

[killer71]

100% fuel injection!

[extd56]

After going through the headaches of fuel injection and a electronic transmission I would go carb at this point if I could. That being said the TBI injection on my 67 went without a hassle at all.

[JohnC]

I have seen both done, and you are going to get opinions both good and bad for both. If your friend is really good at the wiring then that would be a plus. That seems to be the biggest issue, and some places you can send the ECM off, and they will take everything out except what you just absolutely need. They look really cool under the hood too. Just that unexpected transplant sitting there. On the other hand I do agree with the simplicity argument too. That is the way I decided to go on mine. I was having the same dilemna as you. Go carb, or swap in newer model Vortec. The simplicity won out for me, but the next project may get the newer swap done. Good luck on your choice, and keep us updated.

[BP68]

How much time and money do you have.
I wanted to go FI but did not have the money right now.

If cost is not the issue, then do your home work, get a complete 350 vortec motor or maybe a 5.3 LS style motor, save yourself a headache and get a painless harness. The hardest part at that point would be the fuel system, and there are plenty of articles covering that on this forum.

If/when I do another, I plan to do either a 5.3/6.0 truck motor or more likely a LS1.

Another option for you is the Ram Jet, pretty good bang for the buck.
Stick in non-computer 700R4 and simply add a lockup controll. ( I am going to use a B&M unit for the lock up on my 700.

[bdmcgee]

Keep the carb! Upgrade your alternator (if you haven't yet) and put a modern ignition (HEI) on her. . . Keeping the carp makes it simple, fun and you can do all of the tinkering yourself. Just my penny's worth


1969 402 stepside

[capev86]

simple and stock looking - carb

max efficiency, more mpg, less pollution, automatically adjust to altitude changes (great when towing) - fuel injection

i have a low mile 406sbc for my 72 burb 2wd 3/4 that i will be installing with the '84 750 q-jet it has on it, but some day i want to go with mpi for best performance and help beat the oil tycoons!