Auto Choke Carb for 65 230 or is it 292?

[Lubeboy]

Hi,

I have a 1965 Chevy half ton... two questions:

1. How do I determine whether I have a 230 or 292 in it?
2. Where on earth can I get a carb with auto choke so I can stop messing with manual choke cable?

thanks in advance, sorry if asked a 100 times before, I cant get search function to work.

[MacAttack]

#1. Go to stovebolt.com

#2. Learn to use the manual choke - you'll be happier in the long run.

[LILRED66]

A 292 will have six inch high side covers on the passenger side versus the shorter ones on the other straight sixes of the era and the fuel pump will be to the rear of the passenger side engine perch versus in front of the passenger engine perch on the smaller straight six Chevy motors of the era.

The manual choke is quite efficient, if it is working and maintained properly. I am not aware of a single barrel carb for that engine with an electric choke.

In any case, good luck with your project and let us know how things turn out.

[ol Curt]

I know a guy who rebuilds them and adds electric choke. I have been wanting to go close to original so I will be taking my 2 barrel electric choke carb off and buying one from him. I'll look up the info and post after while.

[daverod]

Learn to use the manual choke.

[ol Curt]

To each his own....if you want an electric one, this guy can make you one.

http://www.dickshotrodplace.com/

[daverod]

[ol Curt]

[Lubeboy]

Think I am understanding the auto choke is not what it is cut out to be.... and since my manual simply needs to be full close to start, then slightly open for 2-3 mins, then wide open, it should be simple to operate.

I just seem to go through too many cables, which kink all the time. One stupid thing I have not been doing is pregreasing the cable (the wire in the cable)... I have one more so will try this. Is it also pretty important to mount part of the cable in the engine bay to keep from kinking?

By the way, my fuel pump is towards the front of engine and inspection plates are 4" tall, both pointing to 230?

[MacAttack]

Buying a decent cable assembly is important - no Mr. Gasket made in China P.O.S. is critical. The back-up nut and washer at the dash should be stout. The cable should feel firm (as not to waddle around as you drive), but not to the point of binding. Keep the path to the carb as gradual as possible with nice big curves. I use Black Molly grease (with graphite) and WD-40 to wash the grease down into the cable housing prior to mounting it on my vehicle.

Just my very opinion.

Mac.

[silvervic99stang]

I have a 66 that has a manual choke but the LMC catalog only offers the knob for the 66 model, they do offer the choke knob and cable for the 60 to 63 can i just order this one instead? or where can i find the correct one for my truck. thanks in advance
Victor from Texas

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by Lubeboy

Think I am understanding the auto choke is not what it is cut out to be.... and since my manual simply needs to be full close to start, then slightly open for 2-3 mins, then wide open, it should be simple to operate.

I just seem to go through too many cables, which kink all the time. One stupid thing I have not been doing is pregreasing the cable (the wire in the cable)... I have one more so will try this. Is it also pretty important to mount part of the cable in the engine bay to keep from kinking?

By the way, my fuel pump is towards the front of engine and inspection plates are 4" tall, both pointing to 230?

I never liked my manual choke because with the Rochester carb, it also controlled the idle. In the dead of winter it seemed like you were doing 5 grand at the stoplights and people would give you the look.

Go ahead Dave, I can take the abuse that I know is coming!

I ended up using a Holley Weber 2BBl with electic choke, and it seems to work good.