Rivet Removal for the DIY'r - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72BlckButy · 07-10-2009, 08:26 AM

How have you guys removed the factory rivets from the frame?

I know most have air tools, and it's a simple process, but how about those without air tools. Is it possible? How do you "punch" the rivet out after you have removed the head?

Thanks in advance!

**LockDoc** · 07-10-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

How have you guys removed the factory rivets from the frame?

I know most have air tools, and it's a simple process, but how about those without air tools. Is it possible? How do you "punch" the rivet out after you have removed the head?

Thanks in advance!

Nate,

Here is a recent thread on the subject...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=351442

LockDoc

byrd · 07-10-2009, 08:54 AM

hit a center punch or cold chisel with a hammer to knock it out

UltraBlue71 · 07-10-2009, 10:24 AM

BFH with a Big ole punch, with a big ole boy swinging it I Imagine, soak it down with some PB blaster first, a little heat wouldnt hurt either, I like to x them with the die grinder and air chisel em if ya have air...

monte0185 · 07-10-2009, 11:03 AM

I just ground mine down with a 4" electric grinder flush with the frame and then smacked them with a hammer and punch.

**breeh** · 07-10-2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monte0185

I just ground mine down with a 4" electric grinder flush with the frame and then smacked them with a hammer and punch.

x2

Ole Blue 68 · 07-10-2009, 02:13 PM

Couple members in the thread LockDoc pasted mentioned a drill. I've done the same and it worked well.

Skirkpat · 07-10-2009, 05:35 PM

Cold Chisel and a Big A** Hammer

Gene · 07-10-2009, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by breeh

x2

x3

Kayotic · 07-10-2009, 07:06 PM

Work around with a hammer and quality chisle(mine is 3/4 wide) just to loosen any binding caused from rust.

I have done it two ways:

Cut an x on the head of the rivet w/ a cutoff wheel, then work around with the chisle followed with a center punch to hammer through.

Grind through half the depth of the rivet head. Work around with a chisle, you will start to notice the head mushrooming up. Run the grinder again and repeat the process.

The second way of doing it will limit any grinding marks on the frame.

After nocking the head off on one side, and the rivet still wont budge, use the hammer and chisle on the opposite side just to break it free.

Double up on gloves.

How many do you have to remove?

**lolife99** · 07-10-2009, 07:13 PM

Cut-off wheel, grinder, punch, hammer.
Nate,... you get to do the next set of rivets!

sjarrett71 · 07-10-2009, 08:22 PM

Nate, whatever you do be sure to post a full length video!

I'm just wanting to see some scraped knuckles!!

**lolife99** · 07-10-2009, 08:40 PM

Nates been very busy today. He didn't have time to take any videos.
I'm sure he will post pics of his progress,...

Arad68 · 07-10-2009, 09:08 PM

I drill the center out and tap it with a hammer and chisel.

72BlckButy · 07-11-2009, 06:36 AM

Guy's I can't thank you enough for the info!

I did have a little assistance... well a lot of assistance yesterday afternoon. I will try to get some pics up asap.

dwcsr · 07-11-2009, 09:57 AM

I drill the center of the rivet with a 1/4" or 3/8" bit to about 80% of the rivet depth. Chisel off the head and drive out the rivet. This way the rivet colapses inward and always comes out. It takes a litte more drill time but far less hammer and chisel time.

hensonjd · 07-11-2009, 01:19 PM

I just did some yesterday with a sharp wedge and a hammer. Jus knock the mess out of it and dont hit your finger. lol And knock the rest out with a punch.

*vegaschevy* · 07-11-2009, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arad68

I drill the center out and tap it with a hammer and chisel.

EXACTLY, there is no head left after you drill the center out, no punch or hammer needed most the time, they fall right out!!

72BlckButy · 07-14-2009, 09:09 PM

This was easier than I had expected.... here's how we did it:

- Break out the grinder with a cutting wheel, and cut the rivet head down almost to the frame.
- Next break out the grinder and finish getting the rivet head down to the frame (you will begin to see the round dia. of the rivet itself)
- Break out the hammer and punch and finish the job
- After the rivet is out, smooth any gashes/cuts in the frame
- Shoot with a coat of paint/rust preventer

Plain and simple... it took me about 4-5 minutes for the first rivet, and then about 2-3 for the second. I'm looking for another frame to work on now.

Thanks again guys!

timzrides · 07-14-2009, 09:19 PM

i've knocked out 15+ rivets the last few days. had i known, i would of waited and brought my frame to you....wait i do have some more rivets to get out. i started the drill bit method and then gave up and just grinded and beat the heck out of these silly rivets

72BlckButy · 07-14-2009, 09:25 PM

Sorry to hear about that Tim!

I would be more than happy to remove them for you. Trust me, the cut, grind, hammer, smooth process has to be the easiest/cleanest way I've seen so far. However, I don't have an air compressor at my house, only at the farm, so I know there are easier ways.

Bring it on down and I will finish her up for you.

timzrides · 07-14-2009, 09:49 PM

thanks!!! i'm going to post some pictures of my work in progress here in a few days, i know one thing, wear glasses and gloves...

mosesburb · 07-14-2009, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I drill the center of the rivet with a 1/4" or 3/8" bit to about 80% of the rivet depth. Chisel off the head and drive out the rivet. This way the rivet colapses inward and always comes out. It takes a litte more drill time but far less hammer and chisel time.

I have used a method very similar to this for years. I start with an 1/8" drill bit, drill to the approximate 80% depth then switch to a 5/16" bit and drill to the same depth. Now I have a rivet with the 5/16" hole in it but it still has a head retaining it. To remove the head without damaging or marring the frame, I take a 1/2" drill bit and start drilling on the head. Being that the 1/2" drill bit is bigger than the diameter of the head, it will cut in until the head of the rivet spins off. At that point, I take the hammer and punch method to drive the remnants of the rivet body out of the hole.
The nice thing about this method is it leaves you with a perfect hole and no scarring around it.

Jacfourteen · 07-15-2009, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mosesburb

I have used a method very similar to this for years. I start with an 1/8" drill bit, drill to the approximate 80% depth then switch to a 5/16" bit and drill to the same depth. Now I have a rivet with the 5/16" hole in it but it still has a head retaining it. To remove the head without damaging or marring the frame, I take a 1/2" drill bit and start drilling on the head. Being that the 1/2" drill bit is bigger than the diameter of the head, it will cut in until the head of the rivet spins off. At that point, I take the hammer and punch method to drive the remnants of the rivet body out of the hole.
The nice thing about this method is it leaves you with a perfect hole and no scarring around it.

Thats the way I do it too, also to make sure that you are centered before you drill anything use a center punch to dimple the center of the head so the drill doesn't walk on you.

07-10-2009, 08:26 AM	#1
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Rivet Removal for the DIY'r How have you guys removed the factory rivets from the frame? I know most have air tools, and it's a simple process, but how about those without air tools. Is it possible? How do you "punch" the rivet out after you have removed the head? Thanks in advance! __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)

07-10-2009, 10:24 AM	#4
UltraBlue71 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: OKC OK Posts: 489	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r BFH with a Big ole punch, with a big ole boy swinging it I Imagine, soak it down with some PB blaster first, a little heat wouldnt hurt either, I like to x them with the die grinder and air chisel em if ya have air... __________________ "You can put lipstick on a pig, sure it's pretty pig, but it's still just a PIG... 71 LWB Last edited by UltraBlue71; 07-10-2009 at 10:28 AM.

07-10-2009, 11:03 AM	#5
monte0185 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brighton, TN Posts: 1,267	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r I just ground mine down with a 4" electric grinder flush with the frame and then smacked them with a hammer and punch. __________________ A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing. Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the world together.

07-10-2009, 02:13 PM	#7
Ole Blue 68 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Philly Posts: 1,140	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Couple members in the thread LockDoc pasted mentioned a drill. I've done the same and it worked well. Last edited by Ole Blue 68; 07-10-2009 at 02:13 PM.

07-10-2009, 05:35 PM	#8
Skirkpat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: K.C. Missouri Posts: 1,024	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Cold Chisel and a Big A** Hammer __________________ 1969 Short Stepside 1969 4 WD Suburban 1970 1 Ton Dually....Misfit oh, and a 2001 HD 2500, 8.1 Allison Shortbed 4 Door

07-10-2009, 07:06 PM	#10
Kayotic Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lawrenceville, Ga Posts: 300	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Work around with a hammer and quality chisle(mine is 3/4 wide) just to loosen any binding caused from rust. I have done it two ways: Cut an x on the head of the rivet w/ a cutoff wheel, then work around with the chisle followed with a center punch to hammer through. Grind through half the depth of the rivet head. Work around with a chisle, you will start to notice the head mushrooming up. Run the grinder again and repeat the process. The second way of doing it will limit any grinding marks on the frame. After nocking the head off on one side, and the rivet still wont budge, use the hammer and chisle on the opposite side just to break it free. Double up on gloves. How many do you have to remove? __________________ Atlanta Craigslist Hurst Indy Pickup Truck 3-Speed Shifter - 5010016 Last edited by Kayotic; 07-10-2009 at 07:06 PM.

07-10-2009, 07:13 PM	#11
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,692	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Cut-off wheel, grinder, punch, hammer. Nate,... you get to do the next set of rivets! __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

07-10-2009, 08:22 PM	#12
sjarrett71 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolla, MO Posts: 2,463	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Nate, whatever you do be sure to post a full length video! I'm just wanting to see some scraped knuckles!! __________________ -Scott-

07-10-2009, 08:40 PM	#13
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,692	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Nates been very busy today. He didn't have time to take any videos. I'm sure he will post pics of his progress,... __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

07-10-2009, 09:08 PM	#14
Arad68 Trucks N Tranzams Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: North Las Vegas, Nevada Posts: 816	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r I drill the center out and tap it with a hammer and chisel. __________________ Don '68 Chevy LB 383 TH400/GV/373 posi '56 Chevy 4WD SWB '64 Chevy short stepside '79 Trans Am 455/TH2004R/12blt/4whldisc 95 Kia (Wifes car) 2002 S-10 extended cab pickup "God punishes small sins immediately"

07-11-2009, 06:36 AM	#15
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Guy's I can't thank you enough for the info! I did have a little assistance... well a lot of assistance yesterday afternoon. I will try to get some pics up asap. __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)

07-11-2009, 09:57 AM	#16
dwcsr Hollister Road Co. Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Houston Posts: 6,134	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r I drill the center of the rivet with a 1/4" or 3/8" bit to about 80% of the rivet depth. Chisel off the head and drive out the rivet. This way the rivet colapses inward and always comes out. It takes a litte more drill time but far less hammer and chisel time.

07-11-2009, 01:19 PM	#17
hensonjd Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Buffalo, Tx Posts: 422	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r I just did some yesterday with a sharp wedge and a hammer. Jus knock the mess out of it and dont hit your finger. lol And knock the rest out with a punch.

07-14-2009, 09:09 PM	#19
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r This was easier than I had expected.... here's how we did it: - Break out the grinder with a cutting wheel, and cut the rivet head down almost to the frame. - Next break out the grinder and finish getting the rivet head down to the frame (you will begin to see the round dia. of the rivet itself) - Break out the hammer and punch and finish the job - After the rivet is out, smooth any gashes/cuts in the frame - Shoot with a coat of paint/rust preventer Plain and simple... it took me about 4-5 minutes for the first rivet, and then about 2-3 for the second. I'm looking for another frame to work on now. Thanks again guys! __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)

07-14-2009, 09:19 PM	#20
timzrides Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 351	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r i've knocked out 15+ rivets the last few days. had i known, i would of waited and brought my frame to you....wait i do have some more rivets to get out. i started the drill bit method and then gave up and just grinded and beat the heck out of these silly rivets



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07-14-2009, 09:25 PM	#21
72BlckButy Tot Roddin' Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 24,461	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r Sorry to hear about that Tim! I would be more than happy to remove them for you. Trust me, the cut, grind, hammer, smooth process has to be the easiest/cleanest way I've seen so far. However, I don't have an air compressor at my house, only at the farm, so I know there are easier ways. Bring it on down and I will finish her up for you. __________________ -Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package)

07-14-2009, 09:49 PM	#22
timzrides Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 351	Re: Rivet Removal for the DIY'r thanks!!! i'm going to post some pictures of my work in progress here in a few days, i know one thing, wear glasses and gloves...

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