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Old 01-06-2003, 10:24 PM   #1
Stroker
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Question Minimun Ride Height

Was wondering how low these trucks can be and still be driveable. It seems that with a conventional type suspention (coils,and dropped spindle) a 4/6 drop is all that the chassis will tolerate without screwing up the front end geometory. Is it possible to add a 1-2 inch body drop without having a lot of problems. I'm wanting to have a stance that will tuck the front tire a little. Was wondering if any of you guys with adjustable suspentions had pics of your min ride height and what special mods if any you needed to prevent tire clearance problems. Thanks.....Stroker
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:10 PM   #2
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I have a 3/5 drop, with an 1 1/2" of body drop. the front tires are tucked in the fenders just a little. I couldnt say how far you could go with inners fenders(tilt front end), but without I could go a little more. I think 2" on the spring, & 2 1/2" on a spindle is about alll you could go & really keep the geometry good. a little body drop on top of a 4/6 will get it down.....
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:24 PM   #3
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Hey crazy longhorn where did you get your body drop kit and how much was it?
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:27 PM   #4
crazy longhorn
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Hotrod,that was all fabricated....didnt cost too much,but lots of welder burns
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:28 PM   #5
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My beater is 5/7" drop w/15" steelies & daily driven. Up front 2.5" Western Chassis spindles + 1 full coil cut from factory springs, & out back air bags, 1.5" blocks + adj panhard bar & bolt-in c-section. After 2.5yrs the wood floor directly above the pumpkin is pretty well gone (not that it was in good shape to begin with) & the driveshaft has actually hit the top of the driveshaft hoop hole a couple of times. Oh yea, I pull a 18ft car trailer @ least once a month.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-07-2003, 07:40 PM   #6
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Thanks for the input guys. I was thinking of raising the bed floor and rear wheel tubs a couple of inches just incase I decide to bag it in the future. Crazy longhorn, how much work is actually involved in doing a mild body drop? So do you think a stance like this is possible with a 4.5 / 6.5 drop combined with a 1 to 1 1/2 body drop. Thanks....Stroker
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Old 01-07-2003, 07:42 PM   #7
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Ops forgot the pic.
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Old 01-07-2003, 07:48 PM   #8
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Ops forgot the pic.
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Old 01-07-2003, 08:17 PM   #9
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Stroker, the body drop is a pretty fair amount of work, but IMO the end results were worth the time. My truck is on the conservative side, & I figure total drop to be 4 1/2/ 6 1/2(including body drop). i wouldnt call it slammed, but its pretty low, & also rides & handles good. at the front, i couldnt say what would be the limit as far as what the inner fenders would alow, Im runnin a tilt front without inners. baggin would really be the ticket, but as we know the ride height is dictated by front geometry. my thoughts are that if you plan a mild body drop, it wont be that much more work to go a little more, & that will keep the suspension within spec @ a lower overall ride height. Good luck......crazyL
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Old 01-07-2003, 08:26 PM   #10
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I think that truck would look better with a one piece window kit..........
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Old 01-07-2003, 08:33 PM   #11
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2nd that! a 1 pc window would really put the "icing" on that truck
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....
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Old 01-07-2003, 11:13 PM   #12
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What all is involved in a body drop? Does it just require replacing the rubber body mounts with shorter ones? Or is it more envolved? (I'm guessing it is)
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Old 01-07-2003, 11:14 PM   #13
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CrazyL , I'm willing to ditch the inner fenders if thats what it takes to get the stance. 20-30 lbs off the nose should be good for the old truck. Someday you'll have to give us the full scoop on that tilt front end, that's in my wish list too, I'm just afraid that it's beond my abiliy at this point. I figure with all the cancer to repair on the underside of the cab I might as well go for the body drop while I'm at it. And I'm also in favor of changing the windows on that truck. BTW. Any one know what wheels are on that truck? I'm guessing their 18s. Thanks again....Stroker
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Last edited by Stroker; 01-07-2003 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 01-07-2003, 11:46 PM   #14
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they look like 20s to me
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Old 01-08-2003, 12:23 PM   #15
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If you want to go lower without messing with bags you can crossmember drop 1.5" with out messing with your steering to much. Good thing about this is you still have the same amount of distance between the ground and crossmember due to your dropping the whole frame into the crossmember more. I plan on doing a crossmembwer drop on a frame I have in my garage in hopefully about a month.
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Old 01-08-2003, 12:30 PM   #16
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Those wheels are 20x8 & 20x9.5's Billet Spec. Legacys.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-08-2003, 12:45 PM   #17
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How much clearance does the pumkin need to not hit the bed floor with a Early Classic bolt in C-Notch?
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Old 01-08-2003, 03:10 PM   #18
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Early Classic doesn't make a c-notch to my knowledge. I think the one being referred to is made by Classic Performance Products, which is the one I'm using. The c-notches come with rubber bump-stops/snubbers. If you keep those in, you shouldn't have any clearance problems. If you take them out like I did, the pumpkin is going to hit the floor.
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Old 01-08-2003, 03:50 PM   #19
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Talking

My set-up must be similar to slammed67's. I'm using my bed floor as the bump stop.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-08-2003, 06:23 PM   #20
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Custom clearancing that wood!
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Old 01-08-2003, 09:23 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reumster
How much clearance does the pumkin need to not hit the bed floor with a Early Classic bolt in C-Notch?
Raising the bed floor 2" will give you full clearance if you leave out the rubber bump stops like Slammed67 mentioned.

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Old 01-08-2003, 11:12 PM   #22
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No offense yall but if yall go through all the madness of a body drop................why not go for 3.5-4.0 inch body drop while your at it?............................thats what I was planning on when i get bagged but, those switches combined w/ nitrogen could eat up rocker panels that have been dropped......................no what I'm saying or did i bust my head on the hood again?

Jack P.P.
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Old 01-09-2003, 04:09 AM   #23
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Thanks XXL. If I install the kit I should be able to just raise a square right above the pumkin 2" and be good. But I will put a custom 1/4" bump stop just so I don't ever go metal to metal.
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Old 01-09-2003, 07:43 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reumster
Thanks XXL. If I install the kit I should be able to just raise a square right above the pumkin 2" and be good. But I will put a custom 1/4" bump stop just so I don't ever go metal to metal.
Correct. You'll also probably have to take a small bite out of the frame crossmember just forward of the rearend. It's a flat-ish piece with a lip on either side. I had to cut an arc into the rear lip for the driveshaft to clear. I have heard that those with 2 piece driveshafts do not have to do this.

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