rear shock mounts?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 01-08-2003, 08:59 PM

okay, sometime this month i'm gonna have my drivers side rear shock mount moved toward the center of the axle about an inch or so. i'm doing it to make room to mount the shock because the leaf spring retaining plate is in the way now.

should i go ahead and have the passanger side mount rewelded and moved so that both shocks face the same direction? what would this help?

also, my shock extenders that i have would not slip over the shock mounts, so would it be a better idea to just replace the stock shock mounts(hehe, say that 3 times fast) with the shock extenders welded in there place?

also, when i get this done, i'm also gonna have the bump stops removed, including the metal part that holds the rubber on.

Prerunner1982 · 01-09-2003, 02:06 AM

eric, you might be the frame checked first....

BaggedC10 · 01-09-2003, 03:14 AM

Hmm..........Honestly, I would not mess with the stock shock mounts. How do you plan on mounting the shock absorbers to the upper frame rail, if you relocate the lower ones? How would that work? I would notch the spring plate enough to clear the inner shock extender bolt. It helps if you place the bolt heads facing outwards (You'll just have to torque the bolts by the head---Not really a big deal). Also, I would not weld the shock extenders to the axle tube. Like I said before, it takes patience to get them on. You have to lightly pound them in place and play around with it from there. It took me about 1/2 an hour to do both. Just don't go hacking away at your truck!

**Captkaos** · 01-09-2003, 04:36 PM

If you move it you are going to affect the shock geometry/effectiveness. The shock extenders are supposed to do 2 things, 1) allow the use of a stock shock by moving the mount down 2) move the lower shock mount out to get the geometry back. Ideally, you want the shock to keep the same degree of tilt to it. Once you lower one, this angle changes. Ideally the angle should be as close to 18 degrees from vertical as possible.

Having a shock on a flatter plan makes it more progresive, and usually ride like crap.

Why are you having to move them?

BaggedC10 · 01-09-2003, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Captkaos
If you move it you are going to affect the shock geometry/effectiveness. The shock extenders are supposed to do 2 things, 1) allow the use of a stock shock by moving the mount down 2) move the lower shock mount out to get the geometry back. Ideally, you want the shock to keep the same degree of tilt to it. Once you lower one, this angle changes. Ideally the angle should be as close to 18 degrees from vertical as possible.

Having a shock on a flatter plan makes it more progresive, and usually ride like crap.

Why are you having to move them?

WORD. However, I disagree about shock extenders allowing you to utilize the stock length shock absorbers. Like you said, it maintains the proper geometry for optimum performance. Shock extender or not, the ride height is lowered and the valving of a stock absorber is not equal. JMO though.

He wants to relocate them because the spring plate that came with the flip kit would make contact with the shock extenders/hardware. Right, Eric?

low 84 · 01-09-2003, 08:14 PM

just get you a grinder and notch the u bolt plate and cut the bottum heads off the bumpstop plate rivets. no need to pay someone to move the shock mounts.

as for why your extenders won't slip over the current mounts, that is weird. if they won't fit over the outside of them, will they fit on the inside? i would call sporttruckdirect and ask them, mabey you got a bum set.

ocbaud · 01-09-2003, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by low 84
just get you a grinder and notch the u bolt plate and cut the bottum heads off the bumpstop plate rivets. no need to pay someone to move the shock mounts.

as for why your extenders won't slip over the current mounts, that is weird. if they won't fit over the outside of them, will they fit on the inside? i would call sporttruckdirect and ask them, mabey you got a bum set.

i was able to get one on, but it took about 30 minutes and it had to be bent to do it.

i guess i'm gonna try to notch the plate saturday maybe then.

its gonna suck though if i have to take the damn thing off though, because those ubolts are super long

01-08-2003, 08:59 PM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	rear shock mounts?? okay, sometime this month i'm gonna have my drivers side rear shock mount moved toward the center of the axle about an inch or so. i'm doing it to make room to mount the shock because the leaf spring retaining plate is in the way now. should i go ahead and have the passanger side mount rewelded and moved so that both shocks face the same direction? what would this help? also, my shock extenders that i have would not slip over the shock mounts, so would it be a better idea to just replace the stock shock mounts(hehe, say that 3 times fast) with the shock extenders welded in there place? also, when i get this done, i'm also gonna have the bump stops removed, including the metal part that holds the rubber on.

01-09-2003, 03:14 AM	#3
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Hmm..........Honestly, I would not mess with the stock shock mounts. How do you plan on mounting the shock absorbers to the upper frame rail, if you relocate the lower ones? How would that work? I would notch the spring plate enough to clear the inner shock extender bolt. It helps if you place the bolt heads facing outwards (You'll just have to torque the bolts by the head---Not really a big deal). Also, I would not weld the shock extenders to the axle tube. Like I said before, it takes patience to get them on. You have to lightly pound them in place and play around with it from there. It took me about 1/2 an hour to do both. Just don't go hacking away at your truck! __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

01-09-2003, 04:36 PM	#4
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	If you move it you are going to affect the shock geometry/effectiveness. The shock extenders are supposed to do 2 things, 1) allow the use of a stock shock by moving the mount down 2) move the lower shock mount out to get the geometry back. Ideally, you want the shock to keep the same degree of tilt to it. Once you lower one, this angle changes. Ideally the angle should be as close to 18 degrees from vertical as possible. Having a shock on a flatter plan makes it more progresive, and usually ride like crap. Why are you having to move them? __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

01-09-2003, 08:14 PM	#6
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	just get you a grinder and notch the u bolt plate and cut the bottum heads off the bumpstop plate rivets. no need to pay someone to move the shock mounts. as for why your extenders won't slip over the current mounts, that is weird. if they won't fit over the outside of them, will they fit on the inside? i would call sporttruckdirect and ask them, mabey you got a bum set. __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

01-09-2003, 02:06 AM	#2
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,906	eric, you might be the frame checked first....



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