Firing up new motor/ need advice - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

rick0312 · 08-04-2009, 04:12 PM

Hey all,
I am almost at the point where I will be starting my new motor for the first time. Since this is my first time doing this I would appreciate any advice. I do have a few questions:

1) when filling the radiator and Block for initial startup, should I use distilled water only or should i mix a 50/50 solution of atifreeze and distilled water?

2) i wasn't planning on installing my drive shaft until after the initial breakin. i have a 3 speed manual trans and was wondering if it was ok to run through the gears while the drive shaft is not installed? Could this potentially damage the manual trans? (dumb questions I know, but this is my first motor install)

Thanks
Rick

smoky02 · 08-04-2009, 04:17 PM

Answer to the first question, I wouldn't use the pre-mixed antifreeze, but that's just my personal opinion. Otherwise I say the half and half is what I recommend. Now to the second question, I don't think it will hurt anything, but I have never tried to run a vehicle without the driveshaft. So I'm sure someone else will chime in with a better answer. Also, don't forget to prime the motor.

rick0312 · 08-04-2009, 04:25 PM

thanks smoky. will pre-prime motor.

vectorit · 08-04-2009, 04:36 PM

When I was building motors, I would only run plain water in the cooling system. Since if you have a leak in the oiling system, anti freeze damages bearings and other contact surfaces faster than just water.
Once the motor is found to be working correctly, and there is no sign of issues then I drain the water and put in a 50/50 mix of water and anti freeze.

The only issue I see about the no drive shaft thing is, if there is no slip yoke on the tail shaft then your oil will spill/spin out when you are putting power through it.

The cooling thing is purely my oppinion and is not proven factual as far as I know...

cdowns · 08-04-2009, 04:39 PM

water only till it passes the leak test out of the hose is fine

mclairmo · 08-04-2009, 05:45 PM

Water only for break in since you may have a cooling system leak on start up and don't want antifreeze all over everything. Prime engine with a primer that has the built in collar so both heads get oil. Or use an old distributor with drill attached. Also, fill the float bowls with gas and bring engine up to TDC. You want this thing to fire up right away. Also use proper break in procedures to break in the cam or you may lose a lobe or two. I've seen it done before. Don't know about trans, but you may lose some gear oil if running through the gears with no driveshaft or plug in it.

Skirkpat · 08-04-2009, 05:50 PM

what kind of oil are you putting in it? If you are putting synthetic in, stop, do not do that use conventional, with a zinc additive...I would use water only as stated above for cooling

cparman · 08-04-2009, 06:22 PM

water only
a light weight oil 30w or a 10w30
pre oil the motor

You never know what is going to happen, so If it were me, I would have a friend or two there, and have everyone looking around for a leak, smoke, or a noise.

Get #1 cyl close to TDC, and give it a bit of advance after start up. Break in the cam, and me being me. that is when MY new motor gets its first oil change.

I would leave the water in it for a few days, and continue to check for coolant leaks. Once you are confidant you have none, a gallon of pure antifreeze, distilled water, and if you live in a hot climate a bottle of purple ice.

mclairmo · 08-04-2009, 06:36 PM

I use ZDDPlus in my oil for the zinc and use Water Wetter and all distilled water (no antifreeze) to help cool my big block. I don't need antifreeze, never gets below 60 degrees out here.

Skirkpat · 08-04-2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I use ZDDPlus in my oil for the zinc and use Water Wetter and all distilled water (no antifreeze) to help cool my big block. I don't need antifreeze, never gets below 60 degrees out here.

I have ran pure water before, I stopped after my freeze plug's started to give out from rust...I have heard there is an additive to stop rust though?

mclairmo · 08-04-2009, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

I have ran pure water before, I stopped after my freeze plug's started to give out from rust...I have heard there is an additive to stop rust though?

Water Wetter has an anti-rust additive and a water pump lubricant which is needed or you will get rust and/or blow out the water pump bearings. I also run distilled water to cut down on corrosion. I also drain and fill my radiator often. I also run a zinc anode in the radiator that cuts down on electrolysis, which can eat away alumuminum parts and head gaskets. I have the one that hangs down from the radiator cap but also have the one from Flex-a-Lite that replaces the drain petcock.

Northern lights · 08-04-2009, 07:05 PM

I don't see any point to running through the gears without a driveline. I doubt that there is any appreciable resistance difference between each gear internally. Be the same as leaving in neutral I would think. One piece of advice however, No matter how anxious you may be to "hear that engine roar", NEVER start a new engine without GOOD (prefferable quiet) mufflers. You can't hear what your engine is telling you with open headers (and it might be telling you that you have standard bearings on a .030 under crank). Don't ask how I know this.

mclairmo · 08-04-2009, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Northern lights

I don't see any point to running through the gears without a driveline. I doubt that there is any appreciable resistance difference between each gear internally. Be the same as leaving in neutral I would think. One piece of advice however, No matter how anxious you may be to "hear that engine roar", NEVER start a new engine without GOOD (prefferable quiet) mufflers. You can't hear what your engine is telling you with open headers (and it might be telling you that you have standard bearings on a .030 under crank). Don't ask how I know this.

Sounds like good advice, however, I think most of us break in an engine before driving over to the muffler shop. To do it your way would require towing the car/truck over to the muffler shop, which sucks.

rick0312 · 08-05-2009, 06:48 PM

Thanks guys. great advice as usual. i'll add the zinc additive and use distilled water only. just waiting for my summint aluminum rad to come in. Once I install that I'll fire her up...hopefully! any other suggestions are appreciated!!

Northern lights · 08-05-2009, 06:49 PM

That's a good point mclairmo. If that be the case, I think I would get a set of real quiet mufflers and put a flange on them, bolt them to the headers just for break in puposes. Then toss them back in the corner of the shop and head off to the muffler shop for "the real deal". Just a thought.

08-04-2009, 04:17 PM	#2
smoky02 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Sunny, Florida, some might call it South Alabama Posts: 834	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice Answer to the first question, I wouldn't use the pre-mixed antifreeze, but that's just my personal opinion. Otherwise I say the half and half is what I recommend. Now to the second question, I don't think it will hurt anything, but I have never tried to run a vehicle without the driveshaft. So I'm sure someone else will chime in with a better answer. Also, don't forget to prime the motor. __________________ Just sold my C10...sad day... Looking for a 1972 Blazer to hopefully fill the hole in my heart.

08-04-2009, 04:25 PM	#3
rick0312 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Warrington, PA Posts: 403	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice thanks smoky. will pre-prime motor. __________________ 69 C10 LWB GM 350 crate motor, 3.73 rearend

08-04-2009, 04:36 PM	#4
vectorit What? Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,617	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice When I was building motors, I would only run plain water in the cooling system. Since if you have a leak in the oiling system, anti freeze damages bearings and other contact surfaces faster than just water. Once the motor is found to be working correctly, and there is no sign of issues then I drain the water and put in a 50/50 mix of water and anti freeze. The only issue I see about the no drive shaft thing is, if there is no slip yoke on the tail shaft then your oil will spill/spin out when you are putting power through it. The cooling thing is purely my oppinion and is not proven factual as far as I know... __________________ Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU

08-04-2009, 04:39 PM	#5
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice water only till it passes the leak test out of the hose is fine __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

08-04-2009, 05:45 PM	#6
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice Water only for break in since you may have a cooling system leak on start up and don't want antifreeze all over everything. Prime engine with a primer that has the built in collar so both heads get oil. Or use an old distributor with drill attached. Also, fill the float bowls with gas and bring engine up to TDC. You want this thing to fire up right away. Also use proper break in procedures to break in the cam or you may lose a lobe or two. I've seen it done before. Don't know about trans, but you may lose some gear oil if running through the gears with no driveshaft or plug in it.

08-04-2009, 04:12 PM	#1
rick0312 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Warrington, PA Posts: 403	Firing up new motor/ need advice Hey all, I am almost at the point where I will be starting my new motor for the first time. Since this is my first time doing this I would appreciate any advice. I do have a few questions: 1) when filling the radiator and Block for initial startup, should I use distilled water only or should i mix a 50/50 solution of atifreeze and distilled water? 2) i wasn't planning on installing my drive shaft until after the initial breakin. i have a 3 speed manual trans and was wondering if it was ok to run through the gears while the drive shaft is not installed? Could this potentially damage the manual trans? (dumb questions I know, but this is my first motor install) Thanks Rick __________________ 69 C10 LWB GM 350 crate motor, 3.73 rearend

08-04-2009, 05:50 PM	#7
Skirkpat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: K.C. Missouri Posts: 1,024	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice what kind of oil are you putting in it? If you are putting synthetic in, stop, do not do that use conventional, with a zinc additive...I would use water only as stated above for cooling __________________ 1969 Short Stepside 1969 4 WD Suburban 1970 1 Ton Dually....Misfit oh, and a 2001 HD 2500, 8.1 Allison Shortbed 4 Door

08-04-2009, 06:22 PM	#8
cparman sharp as a marble Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: atlantic beach,florida Posts: 1,082	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice water only a light weight oil 30w or a 10w30 pre oil the motor You never know what is going to happen, so If it were me, I would have a friend or two there, and have everyone looking around for a leak, smoke, or a noise. Get #1 cyl close to TDC, and give it a bit of advance after start up. Break in the cam, and me being me. that is when MY new motor gets its first oil change. I would leave the water in it for a few days, and continue to check for coolant leaks. Once you are confidant you have none, a gallon of pure antifreeze, distilled water, and if you live in a hot climate a bottle of purple ice. Last edited by cparman; 08-04-2009 at 06:23 PM.

08-04-2009, 06:36 PM	#9
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice I use ZDDPlus in my oil for the zinc and use Water Wetter and all distilled water (no antifreeze) to help cool my big block. I don't need antifreeze, never gets below 60 degrees out here.

08-04-2009, 07:05 PM	#12
Northern lights Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Whitemud Alberta Posts: 328	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice I don't see any point to running through the gears without a driveline. I doubt that there is any appreciable resistance difference between each gear internally. Be the same as leaving in neutral I would think. One piece of advice however, No matter how anxious you may be to "hear that engine roar", NEVER start a new engine without GOOD (prefferable quiet) mufflers. You can't hear what your engine is telling you with open headers (and it might be telling you that you have standard bearings on a .030 under crank). Don't ask how I know this.

08-05-2009, 06:48 PM	#14
rick0312 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Warrington, PA Posts: 403	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice Thanks guys. great advice as usual. i'll add the zinc additive and use distilled water only. just waiting for my summint aluminum rad to come in. Once I install that I'll fire her up...hopefully! any other suggestions are appreciated!! __________________ 69 C10 LWB GM 350 crate motor, 3.73 rearend

08-05-2009, 06:49 PM	#15
Northern lights Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Whitemud Alberta Posts: 328	Re: Firing up new motor/ need advice That's a good point mclairmo. If that be the case, I think I would get a set of real quiet mufflers and put a flange on them, bolt them to the headers just for break in puposes. Then toss them back in the corner of the shop and head off to the muffler shop for "the real deal". Just a thought.



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