Wheel bearing - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

epashhans · 08-08-2009, 05:00 PM

I think my right wheel bearing is toast on my 67 2wd with drums. Are there any good diy's write ups for something like this? I can't find one on here even after i searched around. Its been a few years since I was shown how and would like to know a bit more before I tear into it. Will I need to have a place drive out the old race and a new one put in? Or can I do that at home?

epashhans · 08-08-2009, 06:30 PM

Well, I dug in anyway...got this far...

How does the inner bearing come off? Should it slide off? Will I need a puller? Heat? I have circled it in red...its stuck right now...I can't budge it.

Also, there was no hole to adjust my brakes...luckily they came off. And there was no hole to knock out. Is this common? It kinda looks like there is a place on the backing plate, but it doesn't line up with the adjuster wheel.

And here is a pic of the truck in all her glory!

epashhans · 08-08-2009, 06:39 PM

Am I going to need something like this to get it off?

**passthebuck** · 08-08-2009, 06:58 PM

The wheel bearing should just come off by hand. Is it stuck on there? You'll probally have to destroy it to get it off. The puller might work. I used a hammer & chisel to get one off many years ago on the roadside. There is no hole in the backing plate, but there is a lanced-area on the factory drum that needs to knocked out. The new bearing should come with a new race that you'll have to install in the hub. I hammer mine out with a drift & tap the new ones in with a hammer & socket.

BCOWANWHEELS · 08-08-2009, 10:08 PM

Most likely the spindle is worn alot and has a lip on it. Use 2 screw drivers on each side or 2 crows feet on each side and it should pry off. There is no room behind the bearing to use that puller you posted a pic. Of. Be on the lookout for a better spindle. When you get bearing off you,ll feel the bottom of the spindle and thats where the wear will make a lip. Spindles always wear out on the bottom because thats where all the pressure is.

epashhans · 08-09-2009, 12:19 AM

Got it done. The puller worked great...it didn't have to work very hard...just slipped right off. The spindle was in good shape too. She rolls smooth now! What a difference it made.

I still couldn't find any place to knock out for the brake adjuster, although I got it adjusted just about perfect when I put it all back together. I marked on the backing plate where it is and I think I am going to drill a hole and grommet it when I am done. I couldn't find the lanced place drum like passthebuck said. Anybody done anything different?

**El Jay** · 08-10-2009, 12:22 PM

It's not uncommon for aftermarket (imported) drums to NOT have the knock out on them.

epashhans · 08-10-2009, 12:29 PM

Hmmm...this one looked like it was from a salvage yard...had "67 c-10 Chevrolet" in yellow paint pen written on it. Hard to say though. I think when I get some time I am going to try drilling a hole for access in the backing plate and then sealing it with a grommet like I said previously. Think that would work? Anyone forsee any problems with that?

mclairmo · 08-10-2009, 06:43 PM

My new drums have no adjuster hole or even a knock out for it. However, my old factory drums had adjuster holes in them. I would not drill holes in the backing plate if the factory put them in the drum. It's a lot easier to adjust through a hole in the drum itself rather than having to go in from behind through the backing plate.

epashhans · 08-10-2009, 07:01 PM

Thanks mclairmo. Anyone have a picture of a drum with the correct hole for adjustments? Something I could see and copy on my drums....

shaneo2112RUSH · 08-10-2009, 07:03 PM

good to hear you got it back and running!!! I had a hard time with mine when i replaced the brakes!! the drum had a large lip to where i could not even move the drum back to get to the adjuster! so i had to torch a notch in the drum. come to think of it!! i dont even think the drums had ever been replaced scince it was new from factory!!

epashhans · 08-10-2009, 07:12 PM

Yep, back and running. The other one seems good, but I am going to do it as well...just for good measure...and I haven no idea whats its previous history is. I hear ya shaneo...luckily the brakes are pretty new and I could slip it and jocky it enough to not damage anything but get to the adjuster. Tedious work! Glad I didn't have to torch anything though!

**mikey531** · 08-12-2009, 02:47 AM

This is my front drum, it had the oval hole already there to adjust the brakes. You can see it near the bottom of the drum, I can take better pictures Saturday

mclairmo · 08-12-2009, 03:02 AM

That's the same position and shape of the hole in my original drums.

08-08-2009, 05:00 PM	#1
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Wheel bearing I think my right wheel bearing is toast on my 67 2wd with drums. Are there any good diy's write ups for something like this? I can't find one on here even after i searched around. Its been a few years since I was shown how and would like to know a bit more before I tear into it. Will I need to have a place drive out the old race and a new one put in? Or can I do that at home? __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-08-2009, 06:30 PM	#2
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Re: Wheel bearing Well, I dug in anyway...got this far... How does the inner bearing come off? Should it slide off? Will I need a puller? Heat? I have circled it in red...its stuck right now...I can't budge it. Also, there was no hole to adjust my brakes...luckily they came off. And there was no hole to knock out. Is this common? It kinda looks like there is a place on the backing plate, but it doesn't line up with the adjuster wheel. And here is a pic of the truck in all her glory! __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-08-2009, 06:39 PM	#3
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Re: Wheel bearing Am I going to need something like this to get it off? __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-08-2009, 06:58 PM	#4
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	Re: Wheel bearing The wheel bearing should just come off by hand. Is it stuck on there? You'll probally have to destroy it to get it off. The puller might work. I used a hammer & chisel to get one off many years ago on the roadside. There is no hole in the backing plate, but there is a lanced-area on the factory drum that needs to knocked out. The new bearing should come with a new race that you'll have to install in the hub. I hammer mine out with a drift & tap the new ones in with a hammer & socket. __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

08-08-2009, 10:08 PM	#5
BCOWANWHEELS Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: KINGSPORT,TN. Posts: 3,035	Re: Wheel bearing Most likely the spindle is worn alot and has a lip on it. Use 2 screw drivers on each side or 2 crows feet on each side and it should pry off. There is no room behind the bearing to use that puller you posted a pic. Of. Be on the lookout for a better spindle. When you get bearing off you,ll feel the bottom of the spindle and thats where the wear will make a lip. Spindles always wear out on the bottom because thats where all the pressure is. __________________ I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16

08-09-2009, 12:19 AM	#6
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Re: Wheel bearing Got it done. The puller worked great...it didn't have to work very hard...just slipped right off. The spindle was in good shape too. She rolls smooth now! What a difference it made. I still couldn't find any place to knock out for the brake adjuster, although I got it adjusted just about perfect when I put it all back together. I marked on the backing plate where it is and I think I am going to drill a hole and grommet it when I am done. I couldn't find the lanced place drum like passthebuck said. Anybody done anything different? __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-10-2009, 12:22 PM	#7
El Jay Gone to greener pastures Join Date: May 2007 Location: Gateway to the Delta Posts: 7,354	Re: Wheel bearing It's not uncommon for aftermarket (imported) drums to NOT have the knock out on them. __________________ '69 Chevy 1/2 T LWB Stepper: Daily Beater '72 GMC 3/4 T Fleet: Another Daily Beater '72 Plymouth Gran Coupe: ? "Ah women. They make the highs higher and the lows more frequent." Friedrich Nietzsche "Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day." Harry S. Truman GUN CONTROL: Never having to say, "I missed you." Always fire two warning shots into your attacker's chest area before putting a bullet between his eyes. Paraphrased from Louis Awerbuck

08-10-2009, 12:29 PM	#8
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Re: Wheel bearing Hmmm...this one looked like it was from a salvage yard...had "67 c-10 Chevrolet" in yellow paint pen written on it. Hard to say though. I think when I get some time I am going to try drilling a hole for access in the backing plate and then sealing it with a grommet like I said previously. Think that would work? Anyone forsee any problems with that? __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-10-2009, 06:43 PM	#9
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Wheel bearing My new drums have no adjuster hole or even a knock out for it. However, my old factory drums had adjuster holes in them. I would not drill holes in the backing plate if the factory put them in the drum. It's a lot easier to adjust through a hole in the drum itself rather than having to go in from behind through the backing plate.

08-10-2009, 07:01 PM	#10
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Re: Wheel bearing Thanks mclairmo. Anyone have a picture of a drum with the correct hole for adjustments? Something I could see and copy on my drums.... __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-10-2009, 07:03 PM	#11
shaneo2112RUSH Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pueblo,Colo Posts: 424	Re: Wheel bearing good to hear you got it back and running!!! I had a hard time with mine when i replaced the brakes!! the drum had a large lip to where i could not even move the drum back to get to the adjuster! so i had to torch a notch in the drum. come to think of it!! i dont even think the drums had ever been replaced scince it was new from factory!! __________________ 1968 LWB C10 "Project LADY EYE SORE" (She is my baby and sent me to the hospital 3 times for eye injuries lol) who said love hurts??

08-10-2009, 07:12 PM	#12
epashhans Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: MT Posts: 319	Re: Wheel bearing Yep, back and running. The other one seems good, but I am going to do it as well...just for good measure...and I haven no idea whats its previous history is. I hear ya shaneo...luckily the brakes are pretty new and I could slip it and jocky it enough to not damage anything but get to the adjuster. Tedious work! Glad I didn't have to torch anything though! __________________ '67 C-10 Shorty - 454, 5spd, and speed holes!

08-12-2009, 02:47 AM	#13
mikey531 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Exeter, NH Posts: 795	Re: Wheel bearing This is my front drum, it had the oval hole already there to adjust the brakes. You can see it near the bottom of the drum, I can take better pictures Saturday Attached Images

08-12-2009, 03:02 AM	#14
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: Wheel bearing That's the same position and shape of the hole in my original drums.



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