Want your opinion on how high to go with my 95

[mikeys95 4x4]

I want yalls opinion on how high I should jack my 95 4x4 ext cab and what all is involved and if you have some pictures that would be kool too.Thanks

[lolife99]

Anyone?
I'm a lowrider guy,...

[andrewmp6]

If you want a big lift and off road it a lot look up a solid axle swap for it.

[N2TRUX]

I think you will get a more educated response in the 4x4 forum. Lets see what happens..

[mikeys95 4x4]

I can respect that I like a slamed look too but if its a 4x4 jack it up if its a 2x4 slam that **** lol I use to have 01 s10 extreme that I was in the process of putting air bags on it when I got rid of it but im looking for a little higher alttitude lol besides its a pain to slam a 4x4.Thanks though so any 4x4 guy opinions

[mikeys95 4x4]

Thanks n2trux and yea I think your right but its all good

[thirdstreettito]

2-4"

[justcuz]

If your going to leave the IFS in front, no more than 4". Otherwise the front end won't hold up. Also do not put regular off set wheels on it. Raise it just high enough to clear the tires you want. If your going bigger than 33's I would do an SAS on it. I run 285/75x16's on a 1993 K2500 (around a 32" tire) with no lift at all. I like my stuff to maintain a lower center of gravity because I do use it off road.

[69-350]

Originally Posted by justcuz

If your going to leave the IFS in front, no more than 4". Otherwise the front end won't hold up. Also do not put regular off set wheels on it. Raise it just high enough to clear the tires you want. If your going bigger than 33's I would do an SAS on it. I run 285/75x16's on a 1993 K2500 (around a 32" tire) with no lift at all. I like my stuff to maintain a lower center of gravity because I do use it off road.

I think that might be a little extreme. Half ton IFS will handle 35's just well. Granted, the extra mass wears out some parts faster *cough*CV's*cough* but not very bad. Look at how many people run 6" on IFS versus 4". And ask all the people with 6" lifts and 35's how IFS holds up. Half ton IFS will handle 37's pretty decent too. All depends on the abuse and driving style. I've throttled that front end decent a few times, some deep mud, and some real deep snow more than too many times, not to mention highway and street driving, some miles more abusive than others. I've had my lift for a while now, and what problems? One original CV. At 150-155k miles, it should have been long gone anyways. (and two power steering pumps, one original and one remanufactured) I would recommend when doing a lift replacing all your ball joints with heavy duty ones (probably need to be replaced anyways, 90% of trucks around that age) and a good inspection.

I wouldn't SAS til 38-39.5's are considered. You can barely stuff 39.5's on IFS trucks anyways (well, I'm talkin 6+3, not 6+3+SAWZALL TIME, or Cognito 14" OBS lifts) Anyways, in short, 6" and 35's are more than fine for an IFS, and get my recommendation. If you want to get a 6" lift, screw the rest and go Dick Cepek's 6.5" for 88-98's. Better (and a bit taller) than the rest. Wish I woulda known that then...

If you want a lift kit, go 6 (or DC's 6.5) and 35's at the minimum. If you want a real lift, go SAS and whatever. Cruise on over to the FSC boards and look around, see what people's setups are (then again, most suspension lifted OBS over there are 6 inchers) and stuff. Oh, and REGEAR as soon as you can afford it. 3.73's with 35's suck, especially on highway, and your tranny won't appreciate no gears either.

By the way, you wanted pics. Check out the linky in my sig for more, but here's a couple...

[evan]

Can you clarify those abbreviations?

IFS= Independent Front Suspension?
SAS= Single Axle Suspension? -Solid Axle Swap
OBS= ??? - Old Body Style (88-98)

Edit: I registered on FSC and found the glossary.

[mikeys95 4x4]

Yea i am gonna leave the IFS in i think the SAS would be a little more involved then what im willing to do for now.Its my daily driver and 69-305 is right i do see alot more 6 inch lift then 4 inchers.I know as soon as you mod anything you have to beef up everything else so that was defiantly in the plans.What gears would you recommend like i said in my other post about my rear i am gonna get a better rear and of course a front set to match.See what i want is kinda a double edged sword i want something i can take off road and have fun with on the weekends and something that wont beat me and my wallet up on the weekdays on the street.I also wanna know if anyone knows a nice looking set of 6 lug wheels or where i might find them ?? Thanks for the help so far

[69-350]

For gears I would run 4.56 or 4.88. 4.88's a little on the lower side, kinda like 4.10s in a stock pickup. Driveable, but you can still tell the lower gears are there. Kinda nice for towing, hills, and stuff. Maybe wind up a bit more on the highway, but not unbearable. Off road lower gears are best anyways. Kind of a decision up to you on what gears. Some guys run 4.10s with 35s, which is a bit on the high end. 4.56's are a good middle of the road gear, not too high, nor too low. 4.88's aren't too high, but not super low, and they get torque to the ground good.

As for the rear, the 10 bolt will handle some abuse, and 35's decently, but not anything excessive. Throw 35s, a locker, and offroading into a 10 bolt, and watch things fly apart. A 14B SF is worth the money, much stronger than a 10 bolt, and worthwhile to offroad. Sure, it's not a 14B FF but it's the little brother to them.

And for abbreviatons for everyone else,
OOBS = Old Old Body Style (73-87)
OBS = Old Body Style (88-98)
NBS = New Body Style (99-06)
NNBS = New New Body Stle (07-up)

Everything 72-down, probably just 'very antique' to most FSC guys

[justcuz]

My problem with lift kits for IFS is you really don't gain much ground clearance in front. I am trying to configure a 2 or 3 inch lift (maybe 4") using a lot of GM parts, but aftermarket long spindle. This will keep the front differential tucked up in the frame and give me more suspension travel. I will shackle flip the rear and use 3/4 ton axles and CVs in front (they are longer and heavier). The biggest setback is the tripot joint at the differential. I am thinking u-joint here and a slip joint in the drive axles to accomodate the suspension travel. This should allow H2 sized tires to fit with maybe minor trim in front. The biggest hassle is the high angle ball joints are big bucks, these would make it live longer but damn they are expensive! I use my truck for off road excursions to old mining areas, desert and mountains so ride heigth is really not as important to me as you fellas in the mud zone. I agree with 69-350 on the 14 bolt semi-floater. I have one in my truck and it is factory rated at 5000 lbs. GM uses them in 1 ton vans and several other high GVW applications. Mine has a Lock-Right in it and I am pretty happy with it. I have 3.73's in mine and wish I had 4.10's and my tires are around 32" to 33". I would definately opt for 4.56 gears with anything over 33" tires. In overdrive 4.56 gears drop to 3.20's. Not a bad highway gear.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

I think 4-6" and 33"s or 35"s would look good and still get you where you want to go with it. I do gotta say at least swap that 10 bolt rear end for a 1/2 ton 12 bolt or a SF14 bolt and change the gears at the same time say to 4.10s or 4.56s are pretty nice to. I don't like IFS but without going any higher then that you should be all right. But do go through your entire front end and beef everything up while your there. Might as well go and check your u-joints in your drive shafts as well. Good luck and get us some pictures

[69-350]

Originally Posted by justcuz

My problem with lift kits for IFS is you really don't gain much ground clearance in front. I am trying to configure a 2 or 3 inch lift (maybe 4") using a lot of GM parts, but aftermarket long spindle. This will keep the front differential tucked up in the frame and give me more suspension travel. I will shackle flip the rear and use 3/4 ton axles and CVs in front (they are longer and heavier). The biggest setback is the tripot joint at the differential. I am thinking u-joint here and a slip joint in the drive axles to accomodate the suspension travel. This should allow H2 sized tires to fit with maybe minor trim in front. The biggest hassle is the high angle ball joints are big bucks, these would make it live longer but damn they are expensive! I use my truck for off road excursions to old mining areas, desert and mountains so ride heigth is really not as important to me as you fellas in the mud zone. I agree with 69-350 on the 14 bolt semi-floater. I have one in my truck and it is factory rated at 5000 lbs. GM uses them in 1 ton vans and several other high GVW applications. Mine has a Lock-Right in it and I am pretty happy with it. I have 3.73's in mine and wish I had 4.10's and my tires are around 32" to 33". I would definately opt for 4.56 gears with anything over 33" tires. In overdrive 4.56 gears drop to 3.20's. Not a bad highway gear.

Holy, been on the FSC boards much? I do wish there was a strong decent way to gain more front suspension clearance, with 6" of lift that only means a few inches of extra clearance, and not much at that. Not much a person can do, really, not easily anyways.

[special-K]

My opinion has been adjusting the torsion bars up (8-lug) and running 265/75s or 255/85s is the max.there`s more to it than just the differential strength to consider.There`s all the articulated parts of the IFS from ball joints to idler arms to steering to cv joints.i`ve had no problems running these sizes,other than the ole idler arm @ 80,000 routine.IMO lift kits are for hotchkiss suspension.An iFS is built for comfort.I keep it that way and get through plenty of stuff with it.You have to consider power,too.I don`t feel i give up any real measurable amount with 4.10s.I`d never bother going to swapping lower gears to run large tires on an IFS.
255/85:

285/75:


Here`s atruck with 4" lift,8" wheels,and 35s.That is the limit for 8-luggers,not that I would.and,I`d never run past 33s on any 1/2t.Again...that`s 'my" opinion.I play with the old stuff and that satisfies my need.

[crawdadfox]

Alot depends on your tire selection and how it will be used. Strap a set of Boggers on it and rawhide it.....the IFS will not last long! I find a Quality 6" susp. lift and 35" mud terrains will hold up well as a daily driver and will still perform well off road...i know its not Rockwells and 54's

[nvrsatisfied]

just throwing this out there, you ask for opinion so....if you know how to bag/mod a truck (i know the same stuff) a front axel swap is easy to do. i'm not saying it is super simple anyone can do it, but it is not all that bad. go out find/craiglist an old farmers truck and there you have your whole drive train. trust me that is the easiest/cheapest way, cause from that point on it is just fabbing up the shackle brackets to hold the leaf springs, everything else pretty much down hill. and it is way easier to upgrade a lift and you can go as high as you want, and not destroy your wallet for lift. i would save up and go solid, cause when you go out and play someday you will keep pushing the limits, i have yet met someone who brakes and says "well thats all i can do, no sense of ever trying to get back at that hole" and there are to many variables i see with them not being solid.

but hey this coming from a guy who is putting in rockwells, and 52" tall tires, cause he got mad about a simple broken hub on his 1ton stuff....some people just don't know when to stop when mother nature says you can't go any further.......

good luck................have fun

[crawdadfox]

A Dana 60 front would be sweet if you were going with a 38" tire or bigger. But the IFS rides so nice and if your doing a smaller tire rig (35's and down) it holds up better than people give them credit!

[69-350]

IFS does hold up pretty well. GM wouldn't have done it if it was just glued construction paper. Half ton IFS will hold 35's just fine. 3/4 tons will hold bigger, just fine. 33's limit for a 1/2 ton? I don't really agree with that. Stuff is going to break, whether it's 44" or 20" tires. Granted, bigger tires break the weaker stuff more often than tiny tires will. Comes with the territory. If you're going to modify a vehicle, be prepared to put a lot of effort into it, or pay someone to do it. If anything, 33's are a good size for IFS half tons. 35's are also a decent size for them. It's not too big, only puts a moderate amount of extra stress on stuff (if lifted properly) and doesn't push the boundaries of half ton stuff very bad. Yes, they are hard on 10 bolts. Then again, looking at a 10 bolt is bad for it. Yeah, pushing it too hard will break some stuff. Remember though IFS has more moving parts, more stuff to wear out, and isn't really built to tackle some of the stuff solid axles were. IFS can mud, and is good at it (other than the traction part) but rockclimbing? That's a big no no. There's always a physical limit, and even though IFS isn't as strong as an old Dana 60, it's tougher than most people put it out to be. Not saying special-k is wrong, or out of his mind (well, he is kinda funny in the head sometimes... just kiddin special-k) and it does kinda matter the tires, to an extent. A 35" Bogger (well known for their amazing streetability) versus something a little more round, like a 35" mud terrain, along with a balls-to-the-wall mentality will break IFS a tid bit quicker than mud terrains or all terrains will with normal daily driving/light offroading. Speaking of that, depending on the truck, 265's should fit stock. I know they did on my 97, not stuffed or anything. Yeah, it was a Z71 with the highest GVW you could get on a 1500, but it didn't have blocks or nothin, didn't think it was cranked much or any, and it didn't come close to stuffin the wells. I dunno. 4x4's might have more trouble, but 2500's should be fine stock, shouldn't they?

Anyways, about findin an old farm truck, it's kinda simple. Hardest part is finding it. Not any old Chevy will work. Actually, none will, unless you plan on swapping transfer cases, and then you'll want one from a 90-91 Blaze/Burb (VSS connection, old body style and SFA pass. side diff). Or look for 78-79 Ford high pinion axle, or other drivers side diff axles... Brackets and everything else can be bought; steering, springs, etc. It's not super cheap or easy, but it's not terribly hard, and it doesn't have to be real expensive. I've seen guys spend 2 grand doing SAS, I've seen guys spend 10 grand.

[justcuz]

Originally Posted by 69-350

Holy, been on the FSC boards much? I do wish there was a strong decent way to gain more front suspension clearance, with 6" of lift that only means a few inches of extra clearance, and not much at that. Not much a person can do, really, not easily anyways.

No, not really, I may have posted this idea there. I even talked to the guys at Superlift about it, at a show here in California. Jerrod Jones at Off Road Magazine thinks it would be a great idea, (especially here in California, for desert running). I just need to get a cheap truck to use as a prototype vehicle for testing.

To be truthful though I am pretty surprised at how well the IFS works off road. I have been having trouble loading pictures the last couple days otherwise I would post pics from some of our trips.

[justcuz]

Mine with 285/75x16's on 2000 wheels.

[tallhoedude]

i did the sas on my 97 tahoe.

the truck still got 12-14 mpg highway.
the truck drove and handled 2x better than the ifs crap.
done properly,i could wheel all weekend and drive daily 120 miles and was less wear and tear maintenance than the ifs guys who broke tie rods,hubs and ball joints every time out.(other than some 4l60e issues((another issue)).

i would never lift another ifs truck,waste of money,even if i was only gonna run 35 or 36" tires.

lots of benefits to sas over ifs,but its just my opinion,,and hell just look at what im buildin now......so you know im messed up in the head a little..LOL!

[justcuz]

I agree with the above statement. If you want to lift your IFS, buy bigger torsion bars and stay within a reasonable tire size. Bigger tires and aftermarket lifts put too much strain on a suspension that was not designed for it, leading to premature wear and failure of parts.