Who's got them 454??

[chirt]

Guys I'm new here and I was wondering who's got the BB 454 in their C10 And how did you do to cool that beast? I'm having problems with mine.

[LockDoc]

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I have one in my White '67 and one in my Maroon '69. The two major things are to make sure you have at least a 3 core radiator and a fan shroud. The fan shroud made quite a bit of difference on the White Truck.
Also make sure the tubes inside the radiator are good and clean.

LockDoc

[Longhorn Man]

does it overheat at low speeds/idle... or more like on the freeway?
Are you boiling over/acting hot... or just the guage says it is hot?
A 454 should be just as easy to cool as any other big block... I have a 3 row rad that has kept my bigger caddy engines cool, even with no fan shroud.

[chirt]

It's a 3 core rad It was bought new a little more then a year ago, I don't have a fan shroud I need one, what happens is that it will run hot around 210 (says the Autometer gauge) in traffic or at idle It would run hot like that on the freeway too, but then i took the thermostat out and now it stays around 180 on freeway plus I have A/c that helps it heat more
Will a shroud from a 78 454 c10 suburban fit on my truck?

[prostreetC-10]

210 isn't real hot, especially in summer heat. It's warm but not quite in the "overheating" range.

For me, I saw the biggest difference when I went to a flex-A-lite fan. I run the "10,000 RPM" model in an 18.25" diameter. There has been 2 BBC now that I have put that fan in and it dropped them down 15*-20*!!! I would not run anything but that fan....period. You will need a spacer kit though.

P.S. I also run a shroud.

[chirt]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

210 isn't real hot, especially in summer heat. It's warm but not quite in the "overheating" range.

For me, I saw the biggest difference when I went to a flex-A-lite fan. I run the "10,000 RPM" model in an 18" diameter. There has been 2 BBC now that I have put that fan in and it dropped them down 15*-20*!!! I would not run anything but that fan....period. You will need a spacer kit though.

P.S. I also run a shroud.

that's a good idea! but first I need a shroud, so for what car/truck should i ask for when ordering a shroud that will fit our trucks?

[special-K]

210 is 2 deg. below boiling,right?That`s hot.Fan shrouds make a major difference at low speed and sitting.How about your transmission.auto matic,right?What is it`s condition?Abandoning the radiator and using an external cooler sure helps.But,it shouldn`t be necessary with everything working right.But,that`s what I like to do.

[Longhorn Man]

212 is boiling if you have no rad cap.

How old, and what temp is your T-stat?
Before knowing what shroud will work, we need to know how yours is set up. Need to know if it has the correct short waterr pump, if the engine is in the correct location.
I would not run that flex fan. Loud, and unsafe. A proper rigid fan with a fan clutch is what you need. It is the most effective at cooling, and is as good as gone when the clutch says it isn't needed.

[chirt]

the thermostat was new 180 i believe but now it doesn't have any. The water pump is the long one i know that because when ordering the A/C compressor and brackets i had to measure it. It's got an Auto Trans The owner before us said that the tranny was just rebuilt.

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I would not run that flex fan. Loud, and unsafe.

I did not know that 212 was boiling so thanks for that. How is this fan unsafe or loud? The blades flatten out with rpm's. His BBC is not a winder like a SBC. I don't think it's loud at all and would pick it over the stock one all day long. The degree drop I saw was both with a shroud.

[sick69]

I have always heard alot of debate about flex fans. Mostly about them coming apart at speed and going through the hood/radiator/anything else in it's path. Have never actually seen it though or the aftermath of it.

I have always run a 3 or 4 core with shroud, a good clutch fan and a 195 thermostat. Have never ever had over heat problems. I spent from June-September in Phoenix in 04 moving my grand parents to my uncle's house and never had heating problems.


Everyone has what works for them. The common factors seem to be 3-4 core radiator, shroud and a thermostat.


Frank

[Jim_PA]

I also prefer the stock fan with a thermal fan clutch. It stays nice and quiet unless it needs to get loud (which almost never happens)

[prostreetC-10]

I checked a couple of other sources and it seems like anything else, it's split down the middle. Had a guy tell me that once you see a clutch fan come apart, you'll never run another one.

I think it's like anything else. Some guys would NEVER run C clips because they were the guy that day at the track that lost an axle and shredded the side of his car. All I can go on is my own experience and it has been a good one. Maybe stay away from the "pro comp" one (if they make it)....there is good and bad in anything. Obviously the shroud is the FIRST step though.

Electric is another opt and a great one at that.

[mclairmo]

I agree with Longhorn Man. The rad cap increases cooling system pressure, which increases the boiling point to a higher temp so that your water will NOT boil over at 212 degrees. Also, if you were running hot on the freeway at speed, then you may have a coolant flow problem not an airflow problem. The fact that you run cooler on the freeway without a T-Stat also indicates such. Make sure your water pump pulley is significantly smaller than your crank pulley. Do not use underdrive pulleys, they slow down your water pump and hurt water/coolant flow. Also, make sure the water pump is in good shape and maybe step up to a high volume unit. Also, run a proper shroud and make sure fan is about half way in and half way out of the shroud.

[ap2002]

212 is the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure, with a cap on it creates pressure adn increase the boiling point.....

I have one question though? So everyone is just using normal water and not antifreeze? the boiling point in antifreeze should be alot higher? right?

[Longhorn Man]

water will cool better than 50/50, but 50/50 does raise the boiling point.
If you ever see a flex fan come apart, you will never want to be near one again. GM used to install them factory in cars and probably trucks... but ended up recalling them when they started flying apart... just like the aftermarket ones do. Once you see one rip through the hood, and the hood frame, after cutting through the shoud, you'll get it. I have pics somewhere on another computer, someone else will probably post them before I can get to them.
As far as bog block verses small block, we are talking stock type engines, so neither one should be going over 5500 RPM, so that doesn't matter.

[mclairmo]

Coolant will increase the boiling point. I use to run straight water and Water Wetter and I used a 21 lb Griffin race rad cap to increase the pressure. Water transfers heat better than coolant does. That's why you cannot run 100% coolant but you can run 100% water.

[Long Roof]

Not a flex fan fan either. Pops had a fiberglass one rip through a hood. Bad news if your leaning over the radiator when it happens. I prefer the factory stuff in this instance. I also would make sure you have a shroud installed. Proper shrouds make the fan more efficient. As far as 210 goes, I wouldn't consider that overheating at all. I don't get excited until I see 240.

[chirt]

Ok guys Now once again I really need a fan shroud but I don't know what to ask for since in 1970 C10 did not have 454 for an engine right?
So for what vehicle should i ask? a friend of mine says that a shroud from a 78 C10 suburban will fit, is that right? I have a long water pump and no fan clutch
Thanks for all replies !

[hchad18]

Originally Posted by chirt

but then i took the thermostat out and now it stays around 180 on freeway plus I have A/c that helps it heat more
Will a shroud from a 78 454 c10 suburban fit on my truck?

If you took the T-stat out and it cooled better, go to Autozone and buy the high flow Mr Gasket T-stat, it flows more than the stock one, they also have a built in by-pass if you don't have the hose from the intake to the water pump

[turp mcspray]

Is your radiator a stock 67-72 style or do you have a newer style 73 up in your truck? As far as mounting goes, I think you will have to use one made for whichever mounting setup you have. A stock bb 2wd shroud for these trucks (68-72) is PROBABLY what you need. Unfortunately they are hard to find and expensive. Used ones go for around $80 or $90,it seems. I think new are around $120 ballpark. I'm sure the newer style can be had for peanuts. I'm sure if you post pics of yours someone will be able to answer. The only "unknown" will be the depth, due to the long water pump.

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Once you see one rip through the hood, and the hood frame, after cutting through the shoud, you'll get it. I have pics somewhere on another computer, someone else will probably post them before I can get to them.

But that wouldn't matter because everything blows up. That doesn't mean you run from it. Blowers blow up so you run straps if you are a fraidy cat. I doubt GM's design way back when compares to the space age metal of today. The space shuttle even runs a flex-a-lite! Besides.....I don't sit and steer my truck from the radiator so let er blow if she wants.

We agree to differ Longhorn but I still like ya! If I ever get a divorce, I'm coming after your posting record!!!! lol

[chirt]

Originally Posted by hchad18

If you took the T-stat out and it cooled better, go to Autozone and buy the high flow Mr Gasket T-stat, it flows more than the stock one, they also have a built in by-pass if you don't have the hose from the intake to the water pump

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind

[chirt]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

Is your radiator a stock 67-72 style or do you have a newer style 73 up in your truck? As far as mounting goes, I think you will have to use one made for whichever mounting setup you have. A stock bb 2wd shroud for these trucks (68-72) is PROBABLY what you need. Unfortunately they are hard to find and expensive. Used ones go for around $80 or $90,it seems. I think new are around $120 ballpark. I'm sure the newer style can be had for peanuts. I'm sure if you post pics of yours someone will be able to answer. The only "unknown" will be the depth, due to the long water pump.

I believe it's the early model but I'm not 100% sure but good idea about taking pics of the rad I have to do that. and where would i find a new shroud for the early model? at this point I just want to get a damn shroud and then move on on other mods if necessary.

[chirt]

Well I got these pics in hand now.