what am i gonna run into body lifting....

[dmartin1]

ok,so i have a 4 inch lift for my 78 k10.i did 4" cause i didnt wanna have to extend driveshafts and all that good stuff,on a tight budget.

and i want to do a 3" or so body lift on it also for some good clearence on the 35" mud terrains i got.

does body lift effect anything to do with the brake lines?will i have to extend them by adding the 3 inch body lift?

whaty else will need to be done?i know the cumpers and radiator support.

EDIT PICTURES------4 inch lift bfg 35 12.50 16.5 on eagle alloys.

[nvrsatisfied]

brake lines yes maybe, you can buy the braded hose to go from the caliper to the hardline. also you will want to watch for the movement in you shifter(s). when you raise the floor it may cause the shifter to hit the floor faster in shift pattern because of the bend in the shifter. also steering shaft may have to be looked at.....fan shroud....watch for wiring not to get to tight (ground straps).....

that is all i can think of......i'm sure i missed something.......

[Chevy1TonFun]

Brake line, no. There should be enough coiled up next to your master cylinder.

[onlyifihadachevy]

And check the water hoses, But i think 35s fit with a 6in so you may only need a 2in body, I would check the lift/tire size chart, depends on how wide your tires are, do they fit now? And a pic would be cool, PIcs are cool.

[rwolf9653]

As stated above and add this:
Fuel filler, if you have a manual the clutch linkage will need to be adjusted.

[72 CustomCamper]

My blazer had 35's on it with just a 3 inch body lift when I bought it. They did rub the fenders at full turn though...


Chuck

[dmartin1]

yea,i was just mainly concerned with the whole brake line deal lol.those can be pretty costly,so ive heard.

yea im running only 4 inch suspension and am clearing bfg mud terrain t/a 35x12.50x16.5 on a 16.5 eagle alloy rim.worked out quite great.

the rear lift cost me 30$(block) and the front was basically free,we took the overload springs off the back,cut a few inches off them,and used part of them for an add a leaf on each side.lifted it perfect,sits about 3/4 higher in the front,but its exactly where i wanted it.

entire lift cost so far---

blocks 30$
u-bolts FREE
front lift-FREE
rims and tires-200$

not bad eh?

ill have a few pictures of it with soemthing so you can see the heighth

[msgross]

Bumpers will be a little low unless you make/buy brackets for them...or leave them as is...

I think everything has been mentioned except the fan shroud, you have to cut the bottom out..

[LONGHAIR]

Most of it has been mentioned already,but maybe some more detail is needed.
Brake lines- no, there is plenty coiled under the master cylinder, they will stretch out fine.
Steering column- It will slide apart enough, but it may take some encouragement with a hammer.
Fan shroud- is definately in the way. It is two pieces that are stapled together. A lot of guys just remove the lower half, but that can cause overheating problems. Lowering the bottom half and tying it back to the upper with some kind of spacer is far better.
Fuel filler hose- Usually you just cut the rubber hose and splice it back together with a piece of steel tubing.
Ground straps- most of the time there is enough slack, sometimes you need to move them closer.
Transmission- Automatics need to have the linkage between the column and bellcrank extended by 3". Saw it in two and weld in a piece of round stock.
Manuals need the same piece of round stock welded into the linkage between the pedal and the bellcrank.
Radiator hoses usually have enough slack, sometimes they need to be loosened and rotated upward.
Transfer case shifter- usually the hole needs to be enlarged in the floor.

That's all I can think of right now...it looks worse than it is.