2 questions ???? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*Black67Devil* · 01-12-2003, 10:25 PM

If you look at this thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=34854

you notice that the driver side valve cover has the pcv valve on it.
on mine, it has the same setup- minus the pain in the ass tpi setup, but the pcv valve comes out of the passenger side valve cover. - is this right? do I have it on the wrong side???

q#2: when I turn off the key to my truck, it stays running ( not dieseling ) for about three seconds. if I flip my manual fan cutoff for my electrics, it shuts off immediately. the thing is, I have my manual fans wired into the fuse block. what the heck? will this hurt anything>?

Longhorn Man · 01-13-2003, 12:11 AM

For #2, your fan is acting like a generater. It is spinning which turns to electrisity and backfeeds up the wires. Since nothing is keeping it spinning, it slows down untill there is not enough power to run the coil...and then your engine shuts off.
Try moving your power source...as in another spot on your fuse block. If that don't work, they sell a little leectronic gizmo that will stop this from hapening...think of it as a check vavle.
I doubt it'll hurt anything though.

jhow66 · 01-13-2003, 12:31 AM

#1--makes no differance

Ackattack · 01-13-2003, 10:15 AM

You could use a diode to stop the fan from sending electric current back to the fuse block. The only problem may be finding a diode that has that high of a current rating. Going to radioshack and reading the specs, you may find one.

Lippyp · 01-13-2003, 01:14 PM

Something that draws as much current as an electric fan should be wired through a relay. At the moment you are putting a very large current through your fan switch which could lead to it overheating and burning out or even setting your truck on fire. The previous owner had wired the electric fan like this on my truck. I added a relay into the circuit when I realised the back of the switch was getting too hot to touch. My fan also windmills when it is switched off. It used to generate enough current to light the illuminated switch until I put the relay in.

It'll cost you a couple of dollars for a good quality relay, fit one and problem solved.

Ackattack · 01-13-2003, 04:36 PM

oh, yeah, if you don't have a relay, you ought to get one. Good point Lippyp

01-13-2003, 12:31 AM	#3
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	#1--makes no differance __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

01-13-2003, 10:15 AM	#4
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,524	You could use a diode to stop the fan from sending electric current back to the fuse block. The only problem may be finding a diode that has that high of a current rating. Going to radioshack and reading the specs, you may find one. __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

01-13-2003, 01:14 PM	#5
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	Something that draws as much current as an electric fan should be wired through a relay. At the moment you are putting a very large current through your fan switch which could lead to it overheating and burning out or even setting your truck on fire. The previous owner had wired the electric fan like this on my truck. I added a relay into the circuit when I realised the back of the switch was getting too hot to touch. My fan also windmills when it is switched off. It used to generate enough current to light the illuminated switch until I put the relay in. It'll cost you a couple of dollars for a good quality relay, fit one and problem solved. __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

01-13-2003, 04:36 PM	#6
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,524	oh, yeah, if you don't have a relay, you ought to get one. Good point Lippyp __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

01-12-2003, 10:25 PM	#1
Black67Devil Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Purgatory ( no, not Colorodo) Posts: 81	2 questions ???? If you look at this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=34854 you notice that the driver side valve cover has the pcv valve on it. on mine, it has the same setup- minus the pain in the ass tpi setup, but the pcv valve comes out of the passenger side valve cover. - is this right? do I have it on the wrong side??? q#2: when I turn off the key to my truck, it stays running ( not dieseling ) for about three seconds. if I flip my manual fan cutoff for my electrics, it shuts off immediately. the thing is, I have my manual fans wired into the fuse block. what the heck? will this hurt anything>?

01-13-2003, 12:11 AM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	For #2, your fan is acting like a generater. It is spinning which turns to electrisity and backfeeds up the wires. Since nothing is keeping it spinning, it slows down untill there is not enough power to run the coil...and then your engine shuts off. Try moving your power source...as in another spot on your fuse block. If that don't work, they sell a little leectronic gizmo that will stop this from hapening...think of it as a check vavle. I doubt it'll hurt anything though.



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