Installing an HEI DIzzy

[vegaschevy]

I purchased a 65k DIzzy from SKip White and looking for directions on installing it properly.
I have an idea that I need to get the number one Cylinder to TDC. THen line up the 1 spark plug hole at about 530. Is this the case and can anyone help me to continue in the right direction?
I am hoping to have it running and on the road by the end of the day. THen I can troubleshoot my leaking tranny somewhere.

[68gmsee]

You're in the right direction. Insure that it's on the compression stroke at TDC.

Then check to make sure that the marks line up on the balancer. That's a good start. Once you have it cranked and started you can adjust your timing. 8 degrees before TDC is a good starting point.

[jorgensensc]

First, unplug your dizzy so it won't crank the engine.

Try and get the #1 Cylinder to TDC. You can take out the spark plug, put a little seran wrap in a ball over the hole, and bump the engine till it pops out and the balancer is at 0*. Be careful though, depending on the age of the balancer, it may have rotated slightly, so TDC may not be at 0*, it may be off a little.

Next take your cap off the installed dizzy. Look at where the rotor is pointing, mark it on the engine, or somewhere as a reference point. Make sure it is pointing at the number 1 wire on the dizzy (to double check your at TDC, or at least pointed at #1 cylinder). It may be just pass number one, as it may have already fired.

Pull the dizzy, install the new one. Make sure you seat it all the way. It may take some finagling, but you can do it. Seat it all the way, and don't forget the gasket.

Make sure you drop it in so the rotor points in the same general direction as the original dizzy rotor was pointing before you removed it. Should be really close. Next install the cap, and mark the #1 post that the rotor is pointing to.

Add your wires. Start with #1, then work your way around. Make sure you give yourself enough room to adjust timing with the vacuum module. If it is too close one way or the other, turn the dizzy the direction to get more room, and move the spark plug wires over 1 spot in the opposite direction you turned the dizzy.

Add a new wire, keyed hot (only hot when the key is in the on, run, and start position, on all the time will burn up the modular in the dizzy). MAke sure it has full power in the start position. Some accessories lose power while the engine is cranking to give the starter more power. If you hook the dizzy up like that, it will crank all day, but won't fire. No power on crank.

Now try and crank it up. It should start right up, with a little timing adjustment.

If your like me and you do all this and it won't crank, but you get backfire through the carb, your more than likely 180* out. Take the cap off, Loosen the dizzy, lift it up, turn the rotor to the exact opposite direction, then reinstall it and put the cap back on like it was. Should fire right up.

Remember, backfire through the carb, probably 180* out.
Backfire out the tailpipe, too rich, give it a few minutes before cranking again.
Really hard starting sounds like the starter won't kick it over, like it is dying, probably too far advanced, back it off (turn dizzy counterclockwise).
Cranks great, but won't start, or sounds like it wants to, but just wont catch, probably too far retarded timing (turn dizzy clockwise while cranking).
Also check to make sure your getting 12v at all times, as this sometimes looks like retarded timing, cranks great, but won't start.

Remember during all this your dumping fuel, so it may get flooded. After the first few pumps, don't bother pumping gas again for a few cranks. Take it slow and adjust timing in small turns. Too fast and it may not catch and you can miss it.

Getting the timing set, drive it for awhile, get it nice and hot, turn it off. try and crank it right back up after about 1 min. If it has a hard tome starting, starter sounds like it's dying, back off the timing a bit as stated above. Cranks great, but won't catch, advance the timing a bit.

Now that I've written a novel, I hope it helps some!
Shawn

[rwolf9653]

That is one SWEET write up. Good job!

[vegaschevy]

That should help me quite a bit, Nice write up... KUDDOS to you..

however, the old dizzy is off and no marks. Since that is the case where should I point the rotor once the dizzy installed?

[Sinister]

Make sure you're at TDC first. Figure out which post on the distributor is going to be #1, make a mark on the distributor where that post lines up. When you install you want the rotor to end up pointing at your mark. The rotor will turn a little as you install. It might take a couple of tries to get it to line up.

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by vegaschevy

That should help me quite a bit, Nice write up... KUDDOS to you..

however, the old dizzy is off and no marks. Since that is the case where should I point the rotor once the dizzy installed?

Here is how I would do it, right, wrong or indifferent. You can only drop the dizzy in two ways, on target, or 180* out. Shine a flashlight down the dizzy hole, see the direction the blade is going. Look on the bottom of the dizzy and put the recess for the blade in that same direction, but about a hair counterclockwise from exact. When you drop in the dizzy, the gears will slightly rotate the rotor, and hopefully end up exactly falling on the blade, if not take it out and try again. Try until you get it to seat. Don't worry about where the rotor is pointing right now. Get the dizzy completely seated. After that, put the cap on. Rotate the dizzy so the harness plug side (where your keyed hot comes in) is about 3 o'clock position (looking down at the cap). Next put the number one spark plug wire on the second post from the harness plug on the cap going clockwise. Should be about the 5 o'clock position. Add all your other plug wires. Now try and crank. Listen for the backfire through the carb. If you get it, do like I said before, pop the cap, loosen the dizzy, raise it up, rotate the rotor 180*, and drop it back in. put the cap on and try and fire it up. If no popping when you fire, rotate the dizzy to get the timing dialed in. Follow the rest of the directions of driving, etc. Hope that helps a little more. This isn't the preferred method, especially on a fresh engine that hasn't been broken in. But, it will work on an engine that is already broken in.
Remember, the only thing we are trying too achieve with the dizzy is getting the rotor to spark when it is pointed at the #1 cylinder on compression stroke. THere are only two ways to put a dizzy in. right, or 180* out. The turning of the dizzy itself is only fine tuning the timing. It's really not that difficult if you make it simple in your head.
Shawn

[vegaschevy]

AHHHH

I see no provision on where I need to run a hot wire to my dizzy. Anyone familiar with the skip white dizzies?

SO any plug wire can go o any post on the dizzy providing they go clockwise in the firing order of the motor? SO once the dizzy is seated in, and the rotor is pointed at the number one cylinder the wires will start at the first post clockwise from that?

There are zero reference marks from the old stock dizzy. SO i can pull a spark plug and turn the motor over till the number 1 cylinder is at top dead center.

THen drop the new dizzy in and make sure it is completely seated.

should I make sure the rotor is pointed in the general direction of the number one cylinder when I drop it in?

then I run all the wires to the dizzy?

start the number one wire to the clockwise post of where the rotor ended up? Once there the fine tuning I can figure out.

now where does this hot wire get installed at? I see no place for a lead to be hooked to on the dizzy.

hell If anyone is not busy you can freaking call me if you want. LOL

[rwolf9653]

I pulled this off of a pontiac site. I think it should answer any more questions. I do not know Skip White distributors but all HEI should have the 3 terminals to hook up to as listed below.

Now, the HEI needs a connection for 12 volts. Install new 12g wire from the (bat) terminal in the cap through the firewall; and splice into the ignition switch's main feed wire, usually pink in color. If this presents a hassle, any ignition-switched source under the dash will do, just don’t use a fuse box accessory connection. If the Pontiac has no inline ballast resistor and/or the ignition switch is in the steering column (1 'hot' wire, as verified earlier), this will complete the hook-up, and the bypass wire between the old coil (+) and the starter solenoid (R) can be deleted. If the harness has an inline ballast resistor, and/or the ignition is in the dashboard, the bypass wire will have to be used to supply the HEI with 12 volts when ignition switch is in crank position. In this case, provided the bypass wire is in good condition and is 12g or larger, splice the bypass wire with the new 12g ignition wire and discard the ballast resistor


Hre is the link http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....onversion.html

[vegaschevy]

OK, heres a few pics of what I have a little better.

This is the coil topside on the dizzy






This is the coil underside, the 3 prongs on the bottom have a plug that comes form the dizzy. The two up top a yellow and a red wire I have no connector for. tHis I believe is where I have to hook the hot wire up to on the red one. is this the case? what should go to the yellow wire? is it left open? maybe it is for a tach?



I also have this wire which was ran to the front of my motor on the drivers side but hooked to nothing. I am hoping this is a constant hot with the key on but have no idea what went to it or what it is for.



this last pic is the modulator that went to the transmission. I was told I can just unhook it and leave the connector there.

[rwolf9653]

The red wire should be your 12 volt source, the yellow should be the tach.

I forgot to mention the black is ground.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by rwolf9653

The red wire should be your 12 volt source, the yellow should be the tach.

I forgot to mention the black is ground.

Seems like what I ended up figuring out. LOL THANKS!!!

I believe the black wire just grounds out on the coil case under the cap.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Soooooooooo is it running yet?????????

[jbristo67]

Subscribed

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Soooooooooo is it running yet?????????

got side tracked on a few things. Will be home at 330 or so and Ill get it finished.

Then it had BETTER run LOL

[jorgensensc]

Okay, hopefully this will help a little.
Get the engine to TDC, on the compression stroke.
Drop the dizzy in and get it seated in the slot for the shaft.
The wherever the rotor points, should be where the #1 spark plug wire goes when you install the cap. Then going clockwise, add wires in the right firing order.
Keyed power wire goes to the spot that has the + symbol on the cap. I think the red wire.
THe other post (-) is for a tach.
Do not use the yellow wire I see hanging there.

What tranny do you have?

It looks like you had A.C. The red wire you said that ran to the front of the engine could have been for a solonoid that increased the engine idle when the a.c. was turned on. Sometimes the load of the a.c. compressor kicking on caused the engine to bog down at idle.

If you have a th400, it could be the kickdown switch too.
Shawn

[C20-67_N_MO]

Wow Shane - That is one excellent 'helping hand' you gave vegaschevy!

KUDOS to you sire!

[vegaschevy]

Ended up doing a little more work then I had planned on this truck.
Had to remove the carb spacer as it still was not going ot work on the AC bracket.

BAck to the Dizzy. GOt it dropped in after I pulled the radiator and got the motor to TDC on the number one cylinder. Then dropped the dizzy down, got 12 volt power to it after figuring out the wire that I was asking about appears to be the power wire to a one wire alt. which mine has been converted to a two wire. SO the wire has 12 volts all the time when the key is on and while cranking. I also spliced into this wire for the electric choke as well. SO that went fairly smooth.
today ill try and get the cap and wires on and get her finished up. Does not look likely as I go to work tonight and have to get on a early sleep schedule this afternoon.

[ERASER5]

The vacuum switch and the attached relay and the switch screwed into the passenger side head and the switch screwed into the transmission are the Transmission Spark Control or TSC system. This is an early smog device to stop vacuum advance unless the engine is above 32 degrees (switch in the head) and the transmission is in 3rd gear (switch in trans). The relay is then energized and the vacuum switch allows vacuum to pass to the vacuum advance. You can remove all of this. And, if your new carb has an electric choke, the power wire to the relay can be used for the choke since that wire is key-on power.

Here is where I asked the same question several years ago. Scroll down for the pictures.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

The vacuum switch and the attached relay and the switch screwed into the passenger side head and the switch screwed into the transmission are the Transmission Spark Control or TSC system. This is an early smog device to stop vacuum advance unless the engine is above 32 degrees (switch in the head) and the transmission is in 3rd gear (switch in trans). The relay is then energized and the vacuum switch allows vacuum to pass to the vacuum advance. You can remove all of this. And, if your new carb has an electric choke, the power wire to the relay can be used for the choke since that wire is key-on power.

Here is where I asked the same question several years ago. Scroll down for the pictures.

Ill look for the switch on the head as well, ANd find the power for it as well. The vacumm looking thing is that the relay? it has two wires going to it. I guess one is a hot that I can run to the electric choke?

[jorgensensc]

THat red wire is not for a single wire alternator. These trucks never had a single wire alternator. They were not standard, you were not converted to a 2 wire, unless you were converted to an internal regulator, (which is 3 wire) 2 wire is normal external regulator. Make sure if you are going to use that wire it is not hot all the time, with the key out. Also, you shouldn't splice in your choke from the same wire going to your dizzy. THe Dizzy needs consistent power, that is why most people run a dedicated wire for the dizzy only. I suggest finding power for the choke somewhere else, maybe as suggested above.
Shawn