Replacing metal brake line that runs across the rear end

[jbristo67]

Well I started this job like a good little mechanic with a Snap On tubing wrench. (I am working on the end that connects to the backing plate for the drum) When I rounded the flare nut off I went to a pair of 5 inch vice grips. Given the angle I cant really get a good bite on it. I have thought about cutting the line off with a cut off wheel and using an ease out but I feel like I might be opening a can of worms there. What have you guys done. I am ready to dive this thing and not having breaks is kind of a set back.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

You can try heat but I suspect that you are going to end up replacing the wheel cylinder.

Jim

[Jim_PA]

Yeah, they are about $5, and if yours are rusted so bad you can't get the lines out, it may be time to replace.

[Hottrucks]

heat or a new one just remember NEVER SIEZE you never know who the next JA to take it apart might be..maybe you...old man told me that and he has been right to many times

you might also try cutting the line off and putting a 6 sided socket on it....even if you have to goto a MM size and give it some love to get it on

[rwolf9653]

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

Yeah, they are about $5, and if yours are rusted so bad you can't get the lines out, it may be time to replace.

X2. A couple of $$ but a piece of mind.

[Tom Vogel]

Wow... Thats the first time Ive heard of a Snap On brand tubing wrench rounding off a fitting. Yea, Id replace the wheel cylinder. I wouldnt personally use anti-seize compound though... might not be good to use that on the hydraulic brake system.

[msgross]

Just cut it out and replace the wheel cylinder and rear tubing. You can get the tubing cheap and go to autozone for a flaring tool (free rental).

Or get a replacement line from a company/vendor (LMC, inlinetube etc..)

[Stock72c10]

I got my tubing from LMC and it worked well, just needed a few minor adjustments.

[jbristo67]

Oh i have new brake line. Thats why i am trying to take it off. Thanks guys. I really wasnt wanting to tear that drum apart. Dont have a whole lot of experience there but oh well have to learn some time.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Wow... Thats the first time Ive heard of a Snap On brand tubing wrench rounding off a fitting. Yea, Id replace the wheel cylinder. I wouldnt personally use anti-seize compound though... might not be good to use that on the hydraulic brake system.

Yeah thats why i spent 28 dollars on it

[John Fabris]

You say you have new brake line, is it a prefabricated piece?

If not, and you are making a new line, please make sure you use double flare on the ends. When I redid my truck, I did not (just single flare), and when I bled the system, each single flare leaked. I had to remove all lines and double flare and reinstall..... Lessoned learned.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by John Fabris

You say you have new brake line, is it a prefabricated piece?

If not, and you are making a new line, please make sure you use double flare on the ends. When I redid my truck, I did not (just single flare), and when I bled the system, each single flare leaked. I had to remove all lines and double flare and reinstall..... Lessoned learned.

Yeah its pre fabbed

[Stock72c10]

Just make sure you only take apart one wheel at a time so you have the other side to reference when reinstalling and a digital camera is your friend, take a bunch of pics during the tear down for reference later.

[jbristo67]

Got er done thanks guys

[Charlie Huntington]

Funny to find this thread, I was just about to post a rear brake line question! On my 72 Cheyenne 4x4, I just replaced the left wheel cylinder. Putting on a new line I now find the wheel cylinder end is 3/16" and the end at the pumpkin is 1/4" Should I use 3/16" line and adapt at the pumpkin or use 1/4" line and adapt at the wheel cylinder? The factory line I removed actually had different fittings on each end. Thanks in advance!

[imaguywithemail]

Originally Posted by jbristo67

Well I started this job like a good little mechanic with a Snap On tubing wrench. (I am working on the end that connects to the backing plate for the drum) When I rounded the flare nut off I went to a pair of 5 inch vice grips. Given the angle I cant really get a good bite on it. I have thought about cutting the line off with a cut off wheel and using an ease out but I feel like I might be opening a can of worms there. What have you guys done. I am ready to dive this thing and not having breaks is kind of a set back.

I literally JUST finished this about 5 minutes ago! I was taking my brake lines off my old chassis and putting them on the new one. I had my brake lines done about 3 years ago by Les Schwab and apparently they ****ed something up. My front Left and Rear right lines came off no problem with a 3/8" line wrench, the front right and rear left were a *****. I used vice grips, clamped the **** out of them and just tried to see if i could get them to turn. Luckily they popped off with the vice grips. I'd say go for it with the vice grips, because worst comes to worst go down to your local parts store after you get the f**ker off and spend $3.00 on a new brake line. Biggest deal is getting the old one off.

[jbristo67]

I cut the brake line with some dikes and used a socket to get the flare nut out. I wish I would have thought of that a week ago

[Hottrucks]

glad to help But be sure to never sieze it your only putting it on the threads not intoducing it to the system also PULL THE BLEEDS OUT and do them!!

[jbristo67]

Yeah it was so easy I just went ahead and did the other side