Body bolt restoration?

[hemihead]

What are guys doing to restore body panel bolting when you don't paint an assembled truck? Is anyone buy new bolting?

[hemihead]

What are guys doing to restore body panel bolting when you don't paint an assembled truck? Is anyone buy new bolting that doesn't require painting?

[vintagesteel]

you can buy new or look at Eastwood at there tumblers and coatings and refurbish what you have. Or bench grinder w/wire wheel (and proper safety equipment) and get to cleaning and painting/coating.

[turp mcspray]

Check with AMK Products.

[cdowns]

whenever whereever possible i prefer new stainless fasteners

[72SWBChevy]

Originally Posted by cdowns

whenever whereever possible i prefer new stainless fasteners

X2
And the stainless bolts also polish up nice with a buffer.

[cdowns]

somebody should read the board rules about doubleposting

[Thealien]

Maybe
THISwill help?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Maybe
THISwill help?

I see by their web site that you have to have the bolts clean before using the product, it does not clean the bolts... I was hoping you could just throw the rusty bolts into the solution and they would come out rust free and blackened. Bummer..

LockDoc

[smn69]

Can you put the rusted bolts into something like CLR cleaner and remove the rust?

[Bert W]

Sounds like a good idea! Throw one in there and report back, I'd be interested to know. I don't have any CLR, so I can't do it.

[Rack Man]

Originally Posted by smn69

Can you put the rusted bolts into something like CLR cleaner and remove the rust?

Use muriatic acid...yes, the same stuff used in swimming pools....I've gone threw almost 2 gallons in my resto so far.....I even dunked larger parts in there and its truly amazing how good it works in minutes (usually about 15 mins.).....Just don't leave really small parts in there too long as it may begin to damage the surface....Some certain surfaces will begin to turn a weird color soon after its been removed from the acid....so, I usually paint or clear-coat right away....or use wire brush on the piece later.

Also, some guys delute it with water....50/50 mix.....takes a little longer but isn't as dangerous to handle either....either way, be careful!

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by cdowns

somebody should read the board rules about doubleposting

You are correct sir........

2 posts with-in 2 minutes of each other is not cool at all......and coincidentially....against the rules.

Copied and pasted from the rules:

XIV. Multiple Posting - It is simply not acceptable to post your question more than once, or to post it in more than one forum. Choose the forum that your question or post best fits in, and place it there and only there. If, after posting, you feel it should be in another forum, private message the forum Moderator and ask if they would move it for you.

You can read the rest by clicking the link below.

[hemihead]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

You are correct sir........

2 posts with-in 2 minutes of each other is not cool at all......and coincidentially....against the rules.

Copied and pasted from the rules:


You can read the rest by clicking the link below.

My bad, missed that one...apologize for the disruption

[mclairmo]

I would buy new bolts/nuts, not necessarily stainless but just new. I've purchased the black phosphate coated ones before and they look good. Cheaper and easier in the long run.

[hemihead]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I would buy new bolts/nuts, not necessarily stainless but just new. I've purchased the black phosphate coated ones before and they look good. Cheaper and easier in the long run.

Are these bolts just a standard fine thread bolt and any fine thread bolt could be used (minus the pointy end)?

[msgross]

If you want cheap then go to Tractor Supply, they have them in bulk. Doors hinge bolts are fine thread but I think the others are course.

[Daves72'GMC]

When I restored my truck ,I bought new ones for the front fenders and used the origional for most,but most of mine weren't rusted and used stainless steel for the fuel lines and the wiring along the frame rails.

[hemihead]

I am thinking I might try that Caswell black oxide kit, looks simple enough to do and for the right price. I am painying my truck a 1972 steel cities grey metallic so should the blackened bolts should go good and not stand out to much.

[cdowns]

as far as cleaning rusty bolts// just regular kitchen vineager does an excellent job without the worry of structural compromise that acid hasb it's also alot cheaper plus you can strain it and use as salad dressing for unexpected company

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by hemihead

I am thinking I might try that Caswell black oxide kit, looks simple enough to do and for the right price. I am painying my truck a 1972 steel cities grey metallic so should the blackened bolts should go good and not stand out to much.

As I said in the bolt thread I already had the stuff on hand so it didn't even cost me anything. I like using the original bolts if I can get them to look good and last.

I leave the bolts in the solution a little longer and let them soak in the sealer for a while (hour, overnight) then strain them and let them dry. I have a spray bottle with some of the sealer in it and give them a little sparay after they are dry before installing.

When they are done right they look real nice.

[leddzepp]

Metal Ready from POR 15 works fantastic. It also leaves a zinc phosphate coating and etching that helps paint adhere and prevents further corrosion. Muriatic acid (pool acid) also works well for removing rust, just doesn't leave the coating.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Metal Ready from POR 15 works fantastic. It also leaves a zinc phosphate coating and etching that helps paint adhere and prevents further corrosion. Muriatic acid (pool acid) also works well for removing rust, just doesn't leave the coating.

I parkerize (phosphate) firearms as a hobby. That is where I learned about the back oxide in this thread. Cold phosphate is not as good a process as actual parkerizing and for a more corrosion resistance a light coat of oil is reccomended over the parkerising/phosphate finish. Black oxide is easy and IMHO closer to factory than phosphate. Not arguing just adding information.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerize

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I parkerize (phosphate) firearms as a hobby. That is where I learned about the back oxide in this thread. Cold phosphate is not as good a process as actual parkerizing and for a more corrosion resistance a light coat of oil is reccomended over the parkerising/phosphate finish. Black oxide is easy and IMHO closer to factory than phosphate. Not arguing just adding information.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerize

The coating left behind by Metal Ready is not black...it looks very white and powdery. It needs to be topcoated.

[hemihead]

Well just placed my order for the oxide kit, the standard kit should leave a bit of a oil/shiney finish which should look good withthe paint color.

I have access to a bead blaster so I guess I have some work ahead of me while waiting for the kit.