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09-14-2009, 10:46 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque New mexico
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Bleedin my power breaks
How do you guys specifically, in a rundown, bleed the brakes on the 70s trucks with power front disc brakes? I tried for two hours on Saturday and the thing stops better than it did, which isn't saying much, but it still is a crappy pedal as in not firm at all. Goes almost all the way to the floor before it almost locks up! I know I did something wrong.
can someone who does this well walk me thru it please? I am putting on new calipers and pads and rotors tonight, and adjusting the rears... thanks! |
09-14-2009, 11:58 AM | #2 |
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Location: Tinker, OK
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
see how it feels after you replace the brakes.
start at the right rear wheel, move to the left rear, move to the right front, move to the left front. be sure to keep your master cylinder full of fluid. have someone pump the brakes and hold the pedal down, then open the bleeder screw. close it and have them let off the brake pedal. do this until there are no more air bubbles and then move on to the next wheel.
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1976 Chevy 1/2T 2wd SWB 327/Saginaw 4spd 3.73:1 LQ4 6.0/T56 Build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=772071 LFSalleeII@gmail.com |
09-14-2009, 12:38 PM | #3 |
Formerly- 1972SuperCheyenne
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wake Forest NC
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
Thats the best way I have found to do it. Just make sure your rear brake shoes are adjusted properly. It doesn't matter how well you bleed the brakes, if the shoes barely touch the drum when the pedals depressed, the pedal will be soft. Good luck.
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--Josh My Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799218 A good crossthread is better than Loctite any day. Life is not about what you have, but who you have to share it with. |
09-14-2009, 12:46 PM | #4 |
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Location: Albuquerque New mexico
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
Thans, I am going to try a bleeder since I live way up in the mountains and getting someone to come way up here and pump on my brakes is a hassle! Anyway, Ill do the rears for sure adjustment wise, in fact this is what I think the whole problem is....thanks again!
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09-14-2009, 12:58 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin TX
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
Correct on the last two posts. Here is a good rule to use after you adjust the rears. Put the wheel back on and then spin the wheel. It should go around 1 and a half to 2 times max. If you have to put all your weight in it to get 1 and a half then that's too tight. The e-brake is mechanical but you can also check how much it needs by the pedal. The e-brake should in gage in about 3-5 clicks and totally locked when the pedal is half way to the bottom. Hope this helps.
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1978 Chevy C10 Bonanza, 405hp/440tq 383, tweeked Th350. http://www.facebook.com/#/profile.ph...&id=1116781152 |
09-14-2009, 04:10 PM | #6 |
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
The E brake won't hold the truck on even a weak hill, but does engauge at a few clicks from the floor....it just wont hold the truck on a hill.....even a mild one.
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09-14-2009, 05:17 PM | #7 |
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
LOL, then you REALLY need to adjust your rears. When you put on the e-brake it should only go half way and then be rock hard and nothing moves. If you adjust them and it still goes to the floor you might need new drums. They may have been turned too many times.
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1978 Chevy C10 Bonanza, 405hp/440tq 383, tweeked Th350. http://www.facebook.com/#/profile.ph...&id=1116781152 |
09-14-2009, 05:44 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque New mexico
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
I hope not, drums are friggin expensive, and luckily the front rotors and pads are new. Or at least very much like new. The calipers on the other hand will be new tonight or tomorrow night....looks like Ill have to ride my bike to and from work tomorrow LOL! Well, at least I have a nice bike.....fast too!
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09-14-2009, 05:50 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tinker, OK
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Re: Bleedin my power breaks
Those drums can't be too expensive. I just spent 300 EURO ($440) on a set for my POS daily. Worst part about it is that here in Germany you cannot turn rotors/drums, you either have to slap them or buy new ones.
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1976 Chevy 1/2T 2wd SWB 327/Saginaw 4spd 3.73:1 LQ4 6.0/T56 Build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=772071 LFSalleeII@gmail.com |
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