Project: Learn to Do It Myself

[cLaWz]

Hello all, name is Shawn and I am what you would call a shadetree (or weekend) mechanic. My wife (fiance at the time) bought a 1983 Chevrolet C10 from her stepfather that he said was a "great truck" that had a 454 put in after the original 350 caught fire. Fire worried her but she went ahead and bought it on her stepfathers word of it being a "great truck".

Ran great for about the first 2 weeks and then all hell broke loose. Distributor flaked out and after replacing just about everything (cap, rotor, module, coil, etc) I found a great deal on Ebay for a full distributor that was highly recommended here on this site. Dropped it in and she fired right up without a hitch. While I was doing all of this, I began noticing issues with the wiring.

This is where my original thread comes into play. Was starting to puke coolant and run hot so I replaced the radiator, coolant recovery system, hoses, and water pump. First test drive went great but on the second it started dumping water out of the exhaust and billowing white smoke soon after leaving the house (less than 1/4 of a mile). After advice from forum members and much searching on my own I performed a few tests to confirm it was the head gasket. Coolant gushing out of a spark plug hole pretty much confirmed it.

At this point the truck sat for a few weeks due to the Texas heat and time constraints. Will admit, I was a bit overwhelmed by the whole prospect as well but knew I couldn't afford to have a shop do it so one day I went out and just started wrenching. During the teardown I had many, and I mean MANY moments of just shaking my head and thinking to myself "WTH were they thinking?!". After about 4 or 5 hours I was left with this.



I have vacuum lines coming off the carb plugged with screws, or leading to nowhere unhooked. Looks like I may be missing some parts to the Holley 600 CFM carb as well.

Intake had a lovely oil leak down the back side of the motor (No wonder we were using so much oil!) due to the rubber seal being used and sliding out during install apparently. On top of that instead of pulling it off and fixing it they just shoved some RTV in the gap and hoped it would hold I guess.

The exhaust headers have the emissions tubed installed but the main pipe they all connect too is crimped off and just left there instead of removed and plugged.



When I finally made my way down and removed the heads I found evidence of a rebuild. Piston heads are stamped with 030 and the cylinder wall ridge is extremely fine. They must of rebuilt it not to long before my wife bought it.



As I mentioned at the start of this post, I am pretty much a weekend warrior when it comes to this stuff. Give me a guide, even a Haynes manual and I can get the work done and learn something along the way but I have never taken on anything like this though I have always wanted too. My plan is to try to learn then complete everything myself. It might take me a looooong while due to finances and time but when I was tearing it down, even though it's been a pain in the rear so far, I like the truck and it is the perfect project platform to learn with I think.

(These pics were taken while I was repairing the mechanical gauges her stepdad installed, right around the time the head gasket went)



Think my biggest challenge will be this body work. Wife avoided a collision with a vehicle one day but ended up tagging the gate at her friends apartment complex. Other driver took off even though it was his fault (coming in the exit gate instead of the proper entrance)





I know for sure I will find more problems along the way but I will deal with them as they come up. I already know that a LOT of wiring issues are going to become present and it very well may be easier just to buy a new wiring harness and install it rather then trying to find out where all of these wires go to and come from, etc. I am sure I can find help on this great forum

[palposity]

Best of luck with your engine! Looks like a very nice truck!

[Tagg33]

Thanks for posting your progress, I wish you luck and appreciate your optimistic attitude.

[ratty 46]

Well ...... like a lot of people on this site .... they just didn't wake up an were able to rebuild a carb or replace a camshaft .... trial & error. Read, read, read. Go slowly & methodically. If you have a digital camera (obviously you do) take before tear down pix. It'll help later .......

I think your on the right path. Learn & enjoy.

Ratty 46

[cLaWz]

Anyone have any suggestions on removing the breather tube bolts out of the headers? I have soaked them like crazy in penetrating oil and they do not seem to want to budge.

Once I actually get the things out, are plugs a "special order" type item or can they usually be had at local parts stores?

On a better note. Spent 12 hours today working on the truck and have almost everything back together. Waiting for some information from Holley about the carb, then bolt on the alternator, run the belts, and install the headers and connect up the exhaust. Think that is all that is left before I can attempt to fire it up

[ratty 46]

Try a little localized heat via the hot wrench - torch. That should open up the threads enough to back the bolts.

Ratty 46

[cLaWz]

Everything is back together and ready to go besides the carb, vacuum lines and the exhaust manifolds. Tried using a torch and I only managed to get a single one out so far... first one I tried it felt like it was coming out then pop and the nut end came off. Tempted to find someone to weld em shut at this point.

Only other thing I have to figure out is the carb and the vacuum lines to ensure they are done correctly. Seeing as how I do not trust the previous work done on it I would rather be safe then sorry ya know?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...87#post3577187

[cableguy0]

They will just be pipe plugs. Any auto parts store or home depot should have them. heat them up red hot and use a wax candle. hold the candle against the nut and let the wax run into the threads. use a line wrench on the nuts if you have one. also if you cut the tubes off flush you could then use a socket and ratchet instead of stripping them off with a wrench.

[84lwb]

LOVE THE COLOR COMBO!Sounds like you got most of the engine work done,have you considered headers instead of removing the emissions tubes?One last thing,have you run the VIN on that thing cause with those 8 lug wheels I'd say that's a 3/4 ton truck!

[cLaWz]

Have not run the VIN but honestly with all the misinformation on the truck I wouldn't doubt it.

Would just slap headers on it but funds do not allow at the moment. If I had the cash I would be dropping in a 350 instead of running this gas hog.

[cLaWz]

Got everything back together late last night except for the plug wires. Started raining on me so I had to call it quits. Rain all day again today so I will not have a chance to touch it again until tomorrow. Do have a quick question however...

Is there any quick, dirty, and cheap (!) way to check to see if this AC system is charged? Compressor isn't hooked up, controls inside do not function so thats out the window. I would like to assume it isn't due to the condition of the truck and the other related systems not functioning but would prefer not to injure myself pulling off a line and having refrigerant blow out unexpectedly. Wanting to just yank the A/C system for now since for one its in the way, two it's not even functioning due to the PO's horrible wiring job (need to snap some pictures of the harness sometime), and three I might as well do it now and rebuild it over the winter to reinstall before next summer.

Thanks

Btw, 84lwb you were right it about it being a 3/4 ton. Got my new insurance paperwork and it lists it as a C20 by the VIN, never noticed it before!

[TravisMartin]

I wish we weren't 400 miles apart; I'd enjoy helping you. I'm too old to enjoy doing what you're doing anymore, but I've done plenty of it in my youth and would be happy to guide you.

Best bet on the harness is to just replace it with one from a wreck. Burned harnesses are bad luck. Shouldn't be hard to come up with a donor. Check the local yards. The engine harness for the most part just plugs in.

I like the colors too...and I'm not even a Texas Tech fan to speak of...

Travis

[cLaWz]

Not a Texas tech fan either but eh, what can ya do Would be glad to listen to any advice ya have Travis. I'm not dilluding myself into thinking I can do all this without *any* kind of help with the small amount of experience I have.

Good news for tonight is the motor is cranking over with no bad noises lol. No grinding, whining, banging, nothing. Sounds just like it did when we got it and it was running. I take that as I didn't screw anything major up!

Bad news, no go on the start. Crank it over a few times to fill the carb and lines with fuel then tried starting it. Didn't act like it wanted too at all so I hopped out and as soon as I got to the front of the truck I saw a puddle of gas under the carb. Looks like I got a leak at the pipe connection between the front and rear fuel bowls on the Holley. Guessing the oring didn't seat fully and is causing it. Got dark out and decided to call it a night, will hit it again the morning after I fix the carb issue.

Have a feeling the carb will be the biggest struggle to getting it running well again. Never tuned any type of carb besides one on my hobby nitro RC car and thats just 2 needles! Right to lean, left to richen

Hopefully tomorrow is the day. Got from sun up to sun down to do whatever I need to finish it up.

[zimmstoy]

If you need one, I have a passenger side door off an 86 that may work for you. I am also local in Austin.

[cLaWz]

Today is a damn good day if I must say so myself. Truck is up and running and just as loud as I remember Timing still isn't perfect and the coolant temp wanted to hover around 200-210 (is that about average for a 454 w/ a stock 195 thermostat?) but she moved on her own power for the first time since July.

Thanks everyone for the advice and help. Now the journey continues to the rest of the truck.

[cLaWz]

Just got it up and running and I'm already back at it again. Can anyone confirm if this is the stock fuse panel/box? Gotta start somewhere with the electrical gremlins. (Sorry for the blurry pic)

[TravisMartin]

It looks right. But I wouldn't start there; from what you've said, I gather the engine harness had been damaged by a fire. Unless someone did some butchering up under the dash that side of things is probably all right.

The fuse block is molded such that the back side of it is a big female connector---actually, two female connectors back-to-back---that protrude throught the a hole in the firewall. Look under the hood and you'll see there are two wiring harnesses with big plugs on them attached to the fuse panel. There is a single bolt between the plugs that holds them on.

The harness on the outside is mostly headlights, tail lights, horn, etc. I gather the lights are okay so it probably doesn't need any attention.

The one to the inside is the engine harness.

My recommendation is to get a replacement engine harness from a wreck that wasn't burned and replace the whole thing. You can take yours off and splice and repair it, but it's been my experience that a fire does lasting damage to the insulation and the plugs on the ends of the harness and will just keep giving you trouble.

I have an 82 model that I'm going to do a retrofit to TBI on and would be glad to give you the original harness, but I feel sure you don't want to wait that long. Since your truck has a 454 in it now, you'd be ahead if you could find a 3/4 or one ton that had 454 from the factory to get the harness from as several things are a little different. You can certainly make the small block harness work, but some of the wires are going to be too short to fit comfortably.

Anyhow, start with the engine harness and see if that doesn't fix it up.

Travis

[cLaWz]

My step father in law (guess I have to call him that now huh? lol) said they put in a donor harness after the fire. I do not see any signs of a fire so I'm inclined to believe they did BUT there are so many wires just dangling around that have been cut it's nuts. This is some of the worst spots. Fuse box looks horrible o.0
Upper left, cut wires.




Bunch of cut wires...


I do like the idea of yours to just grab a donor engine harness. Think it would be easier then tracing all the stuff in there.. I'm not even sure if it is a harness for the same make/model o.0 They really did some "funny" fix's on this truck and it may end up being a nightmare to correct but man I enjoyed hearing it running again yesterday. Actually took her around the block slowly and set off a bunch of car alarms. Guess the cherry bombs are completely rusted out like I thought they were... why they put cherry bomb glasspacks on... I don't know.

[TravisMartin]

I admire your tenacity! Keep it up.

Looks like it's the air conditioning harness that took the worst of the abuse. You should be able to find that about anywhere since it'll be the same for small block or big block, even Suburban (lots of them in wrecking yards)

What I can see of the harnesses where they go into the fuse box doesn't look too bad. How is the engine harness out where it connects to distributor, alternator, starter, temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, etc? If they already replaced it after the fire it might be salvageable.

Travis

[TravisMartin]

I went out and looked at my '82...the harness that's cut in the first picture, to the left of the wiper motor, is for the cruise control; the one in the last picture just to the left of the transmission dipstick tube is the air conditioning harness.

The good news is they're both easy to find replacements for. The cruise harness will need to be from an 82 or 83 unless you upgrade the column and cruise control, but that's a fairly major project and I don't imagine you'll want to fool with it right away. Look for an 82 or 83 Suburban in a wrecking yard and get 'em both.

Eureka! I just remembered there's a guy in Leander advertising an 82 Suburban he's parting out on the parts section of this very forum...look him up. It was originally a diesel but the a/c and cruise harnesses should be the same, and there may be other parts you can use.

[cLaWz]

Poor truck is sitting in the driveway waiting for inspection and registration stuff to get sorted out. Did drive it around the parking lot and it was shifting alittle weird. Need to check into that but everything else seems to be good to go.

Kept meaning to ask about these... through some searching I found they are "ported vacuum switches" and from my understanding they open up at certain temps. There were no lines running to them when I did the tear down and I am assuming they will cause a vacuum leaks and the issues to go along with that. Am I correct in my assumption? Should I re-run vacuum lines to these or just go ahead and remove them then buy some plugs?

[GMC Guy]

plug 'em. it's the easiest thing to do.

[cLaWz]

What I thought, thanks.

[ratty 46]

As for the wires just hanging around ..... do your self a favor .... invest in a test light. Find the ones that are "hot" & tape over the ends for right now. This way should you need a live wire under the hood you just might have one. Also check to see if they are hot AFTER you turn to the "ON" position.

That way you've tested them on/off & will be better off.

Ratty 46

[Damien]

The ported vacuum switch is just like an electrical switch, only with vacuum. If nothing is connected, it won't do anything. You don't have any vacuum lines going to it, so there will not be a leak as long as the vacuum like is plugged or going somewhere else.

The truck looks to be a 3/4 ton (C20) Camper Special. That is what the "tent" on the cab molding is for. They were for people that intended to put a camper in the bed. The have very heavy duty rear springs. I think there should be 13 leaves in the rear spring pack. A half ton truck will have 5 or 7 leaves.