JB weld question

[toddtheodd]

OK...
So... I am using the carb studs on my aluminum edelbrock intake, but have unfortunately stripped one of them out. (guess the carb came off one too many times)
So here is the question... can I just put a little JB weld on the threads of the stud and screw it into the intake manifold? Will I then be able to torque the carb down.

The reason I ask is because I'm pretty sure that I have a vacuum leak (surging and trouble idling and stuff), and I'm thinking it's because I can really only clamp down on 3 out of 4 of the studs...

So... opinions?

Oh... I also have some red locktite... if that'll work too.......................

[LockDoc]

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I would say helicoil is the only way to fix that correctly.

LockDoc

[PanelDeland]

I would "Heli-coil" it.You will have to drill the hole to a larger size and tap it then insert a "heli-coil" with threadlocker on it.Then you can use a regular stud.That way if you ever have another problem the stud can be replced.
Since it seems the mani is on the vehicle use a shop vac to keep the chips from the drilling operation from getting into the intake.
That's my $0.02

I'd have beat your post Leon but it takes me a while to hunt and peck.

[toddtheodd]

Now bear in mind that I'm not planning on removing the stud... ever... so it can go in there permanently.
I don't really care about rethreading it. I just want the stud to be able to hold some... love...

[toddtheodd]

Oh... and since this is just the performer rpm and not the air gap... well... if it ever comes down to having to replace it... you know where I'm going with this...

[Tx Firefighter]

Bring it to my shop in Springtown and I will HeliCoil it for you for a 12 pack of Diet Dr Peppers.

[unclewatts]

JB Weld is never to way to go in a situation like this. HeliCoil it.

[highperf4x4]

You should take firefighter up on his offer.

JB weld or locktite isn't going to allow you to tighten it down.

Have you tested the intake and carb base for a vacum leak with some starter fluid or something?

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

You should take firefighter up on his offer.

It's already bolted to the motor, and I don't really want to have to take it back apart to get it there.
And I don't think it would make it all the way to springtown under it's own power.

[cdowns]

if you're going to work on it the smart thing would b to install 4helicoils

[D.PASSMORE]

Well, I guess you answered your own question. JB Weld it!
JB Weld will get you by for now... You can always heli coil later,

[toddtheodd]

I guess I can just use some of the gasket maker out there. I can get the nut tightened down some... but not much... maybe the gasket crap will work with how tight I can get it...

[cdowns]

you can helicoil with manifold on the truck///

remove carb place rags into manifold take drill bit smear thick bearing grease on bit drill hole take tap smear bearing grease on tap ,tap hole install helicoil// remove rags vaccume inside manifold install new gaskets and spacers if used then the carb and torque to specs(i think about 15ftlbs if i remember right


a job woth doing is worth doing right

[Tx Firefighter]

If you can get it out here, we can unbolt the carburetor, cover the plenum with tape, and helicoil the hole. The holes are blind, so no worries about drilling shavings getting in it as long as the plenum is taped shut. Once you get the carb removed, figure 5 minutes to do the Helicoil itself.

[Myself]

Is this a Holley carb? I just went through some problems like you're describing. Found out the power valve was the culprit. Looked like the ethanol was eating it. The new rebuild kits come with greenish looking acc. pumps and power valves, I assume there's a reason behind that. Also my mounting base plate was .006 warped. Took care of that with a flat file. It runs great now.

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Myself

Is this a Holley carb? I just went through some problems like you're describing. Found out the power valve was the culprit. Looked like the ethanol was eating it. The new rebuild kits come with greenish looking acc. pumps and power valves, I assume there's a reason behind that. Also my mounting base plate was .006 warped. Took care of that with a flat file. It runs great now.

Edelbrock...

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

If you can get it out here, we can unbolt the carburetor, cover the plenum with tape, and helicoil the hole. The holes are blind, so no worries about drilling shavings getting in it as long as the plenum is taped shut. Once you get the carb removed, figure 5 minutes to do the Helicoil itself.

Slap it on a trailer if you have to Todd but this is your wisest move dude.

There's a name for what you're wanting to do and it isn't allowed anywhere near my stuff.

[BluTrukker]

If your never going to remove it, drill and tap it for the next bigger size stud. Or drill and tap for a slightly larger metric stud. JB might work, but its a good way to get your name on a "look what the PO did" post. The right/cheapest/best way to do it is a helicoil, they are available at most parts stores.

[Heartbeat of America]

Looks like everyone suggest "Heli-coil". I would "Heli-coil" it, unless you dont know how. In that case I would find someone to help me "Heli-coil" it. Don't use the JB weld.

[toddtheodd]

Just real quick... this sound like a vacuum leak problem yes?

I have initial timing set at about 11 degrees BTDC, and I have the idle mixture screws out 2 full turns (anything more or less and the rpms go down).
Now... at idle in park... it kinda surges. And it doesn't matter where I set the idle screw at, 600 rpm or 1200rpm, when I put it in gear, it drops to 400 rpm. In gear, when I go to take off, it stumbles, and doesn't really want to go, but once it's above about... 1100 rpm, it'll go ok, but with surging.

Sound about right yes?

[bigbadchev72]

Spray starting fluid around the base of the carb while running, Report back with results (any changes in rpm)

Another vote for throwing in some heli-coils for your studs, I HAd to do all 4 of mine. But if you want to mickey mouse your junk, then go with the jb weld.

[toddtheodd]

To tell y'all the honest truth... I would love an excuse to get the air gap...

Starting fluid?
I've heard that WD40 can be sprayed around as well... though I haven't tried... will that work too?

I'm also thinking I'm needing to replace the hose from the intake to the trans regulator... It's pretty crappy... Is it supposed to be intake to rubber to metal to rubber to metal to rubber to trans?

[highperf4x4]

The starting fluid will have a much more profound affect on engine speed than the wd40 will. Spray it around the base of the carb "lightly" and also along the edges of the intake manifold where the gaskets are, also "lightly" (you don't want it to blow up in your face and I always recommend a fire extinguisher when dealing with fuel stuff) If you have much of a vacum leak it will speed the engine up considerably. I don't know that I would blame this on vacum leak though. It sounds a little funky and I would be suspicious of the carb itself.

As long as the line to your vacum modulator isn't cracked or broken then it will work no matter how much is metal or rubber. There is generally a metal line running from the engine to the trans though with a short piece of rubber line at each end.

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

The starting fluid will have a much more profound affect on engine speed than the wd40 will. Spray it around the base of the carb "lightly" and also along the edges of the intake manifold where the gaskets are, also "lightly" (you don't want it to blow up in your face and I always recommend a fire extinguisher when dealing with fuel stuff) If you have much of a vacum leak it will speed the engine up considerably. I don't know that I would blame this on vacum leak though. It sounds a little funky and I would be suspicious of the carb itself.

As long as the line to your vacum modulator isn't cracked or broken then it will work no matter how much is metal or rubber. There is generally a metal line running from the engine to the trans though with a short piece of rubber line at each end.

I already went through and rebuilt the carb since the floats were sticking a little...
I didn't think of the intake gasket leaking... though I think it should be fine. It's the Mr.Gasket one with the rubber rings around the actual passages... I'll check though.
What is a starting fluid though? Like Berryman's carb cleaner?

I will pour some seafoam in the gas tank too...

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by toddtheodd

I already went through and rebuilt the carb since the floats were sticking a little...
I didn't think of the intake gasket leaking... though I think it should be fine. It's the Mr.Gasket one with the rubber rings around the actual passages... I'll check though.
What is a starting fluid though? Like Berryman's carb cleaner?

I will pour some seafoam in the gas tank too...

I don't know what the seafoam will help but starting fluid comes in a spray can like berryman's. It's got alot of ether in it so it's extremely explosive. That's how it helps flooded engines ignite their fuel.

So you have alot of experience building carbs?