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10-06-2009, 05:40 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 32
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a buttload of questions.
i have and old rusty short bed small window 64 with no title and overall no knowledge about the truck. i know it has a straight six and a 3 speed. it maybe the original 236 but im not quite sure. i know it runs pretty well but i dont much want to bother with it. i was wondering how much money i could get out of the motor and tranny if i sell it. also i have finally began working on my long bed 64
and i took out the seat, gas tank ,door panels , glove box, and every thing else that comes out simply. the floor has some patch panels in and alot of pitted metal and rust. i been wire wheeling anything rusty and trying to get all the bulky stuff taken care of. im not sure what grit sandpaper to use to get the inside cab all prepped and ready. i was going to paint the whole inside with some rustoleum rusty metal primer and then paint it again after im done with im not sure what yet. how do i go about cleaning up the metal down in the cab corners?? and how do you clean out the drip rail around the roof ? it looks like its been caulked up and i need to redo it. what the best way to do all that? |
10-06-2009, 06:21 PM | #2 |
SSN 706
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Pocatello Idaho
Posts: 3,821
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Re: a buttload of questions.
The best thing to do is cut all the rust out and replace it with new metal. I don't think painting it is really going to help things a lot. Eastwood makes so rust stop stuff might look them up. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
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10-06-2009, 10:16 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 32
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Re: a buttload of questions.
im broke. dont have a shop. dont have a welder. dont have alot of things. i got a truck im trying to drive. im gonna halfass the hell out of it and drive the wheels off it. just want to make it look better than it does. but thanks anyways eveyone.lol.
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10-06-2009, 10:31 PM | #4 |
SSN 706
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Pocatello Idaho
Posts: 3,821
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Re: a buttload of questions.
Paints cheap. Can of resin and some fiberglass should hold things together. Wire brush on a drill should work good in the cab corners. Look on craigs list to see what engines are selling for.
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Daverods 64 C10 Daily driver 292 3 speed "Driver" Daverods 66 Build C10 Bags 350/350(On Hold) Daverods 52 Build 3100 S10 chassis,Bags, 350/700r4 "Click it" Last edited by daverod; 10-06-2009 at 10:33 PM. |
10-07-2009, 07:31 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 32
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Re: a buttload of questions.
thankyou. im not trying to do it ghetto im just trying to make it last longer so if i am ever able to do it correct i can. i dont have welders and cutoff wheels and lifts and sandblasters. i dont even know anyone with all that stuff.
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10-07-2009, 09:14 AM | #6 |
"Where were you in '62?"
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Cleveland County, North Cackalacky
Posts: 5,013
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Re: a buttload of questions.
Any local Body Shops, or Hot Rod Shops around you that could work on it?
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PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET" 1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed Nostalgia Pro/Street Pickup Truck PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET Build Thread What Are You Workin' On? - 1Bad62ChevyPickup PROJECT: "TYRANNORAMBLER REX" 1969 AMC Rambler American Nostalgia Pro/Street Youtube Channel: Father Son Projects Youtube Channel: 2TIMOTHY2FITHTEEN "North and South Carolina Folks Click Here!" (((( ~ I have Parts For Sale & Miscellaneous Stuff ~ )))) "Well being as there's no other place around the place, I reckon this must be the place, I reckon...Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk" -Curly Howard Ph.D. |
10-07-2009, 07:16 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Unionville Mo.
Posts: 217
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Re: a buttload of questions.
On my drip rail- the caulk was in bad shape and most came out easy with a knife.
Then I used a wire brush on a drill, had a brass one so I used it. The caulk is available at auto zone, was ~ $8, fits a normal caulk gun. There is more than enough for the drip rail so have your other seams ready at the same time. I then used rusty metal primer (in a can), sanded then 'real' primer. Just need time to paint the rood white after some repairs. David |
10-08-2009, 08:40 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 32
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Re: a buttload of questions.
thanks for the info. im finally getting somewhere on my truck. i was wondering what the process of applying phosphoric acid consisted of. any need for thinning it or mixing it or anything? also how long should it sit or soak in? does in need washed off or anything.? thanks so much.
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10-08-2009, 09:36 AM | #9 |
"Where were you in '62?"
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Cleveland County, North Cackalacky
Posts: 5,013
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Re: a buttload of questions.
Check out Eastwood Company.
Prevention Removal Treatment http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html Also check out thier Technical Library: http://www.eastwood.com/tech-library
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PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET" 1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed Nostalgia Pro/Street Pickup Truck PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET Build Thread What Are You Workin' On? - 1Bad62ChevyPickup PROJECT: "TYRANNORAMBLER REX" 1969 AMC Rambler American Nostalgia Pro/Street Youtube Channel: Father Son Projects Youtube Channel: 2TIMOTHY2FITHTEEN "North and South Carolina Folks Click Here!" (((( ~ I have Parts For Sale & Miscellaneous Stuff ~ )))) "Well being as there's no other place around the place, I reckon this must be the place, I reckon...Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk" -Curly Howard Ph.D. |
10-08-2009, 10:54 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 169
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Re: a buttload of questions.
Just an idea, but you dont need a welder to do metal patches. You can buy Map gas at home depot, and brass braizing rod. It will weld (err stick together) any of your sheetmetal, and be much stronger than fiberglass. If you practice, you may not even get too much warpage. I used it a while back on a quick patch, and was amazed at how strong it was. If you do decide to use fiberglass, you might consider getting some light metal mesh to reinforce it, you can rivet or screw it on to hold it in place then remove the screws or drill out the rivets once it sets up.
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10-10-2009, 12:06 PM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 32
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Re: a buttload of questions.
i got a 70 amp campbell hausfeld 70 amp stick for free from my neighbor. its making things worse. im gonna buy a real welder. anything worth buying for under 300 dollars??
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10-10-2009, 12:49 PM | #12 |
"Where were you in '62?"
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Cleveland County, North Cackalacky
Posts: 5,013
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Re: a buttload of questions.
Miller and Lincoln Welders are about the Best on the market.
But they arent cheap new. Maybe you can find a used one cheap. Miller - Welding Equipment http://www.millerwelds.com/ Lincoln - Welding Equipment http://www.lincolnelectric.com/ LOOK HERE! Google Shopping Results: http://www.google.com/products?q=welders&aq=f
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PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET" 1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed Nostalgia Pro/Street Pickup Truck PROJECT: "FULL METAL YELLOW JACKET Build Thread What Are You Workin' On? - 1Bad62ChevyPickup PROJECT: "TYRANNORAMBLER REX" 1969 AMC Rambler American Nostalgia Pro/Street Youtube Channel: Father Son Projects Youtube Channel: 2TIMOTHY2FITHTEEN "North and South Carolina Folks Click Here!" (((( ~ I have Parts For Sale & Miscellaneous Stuff ~ )))) "Well being as there's no other place around the place, I reckon this must be the place, I reckon...Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk" -Curly Howard Ph.D. |
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