Suggestions on What I've Got?

[spankbomb]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 79 C10 SWB. I've torn it all the way to the frame, but would like input on what needs improvement.

Currently, the frame was z-ed 3inches in the front, notched in the rear. It has stock a-arms up front and a semi-triangulated 4-link in the rear. I'm not sure what airbags are under it, but the rear's have 'Contitech' stamped onto the bag itself. The front spindles appear to be aftermarket, but I have not torn them down yet and can't see any stamping on them. Do any manufacturer's paint them gun metal grey?

I'll initially be running 17" Cragar soft 8s and 275/50s in the rear and 235/45s in the front because that's what I have right now.

The truck looked like this when I bought it:




Anyhow, I'm new to this and am looking for any advice on the front and rear setups. The rear is what I'll be focusing on first. I'm not set on keeping the current rear axle. I have a line on a 63" WMS 9" Ford housing that I could get to replace the current axle.

On to pics of the of the rear as it currently sits:






Thanks for the help,
Jon D.

[smashingchuck]

A few quick things... I gotta get to work!

The bags need to be centered on the bars.

By no means is that a triangulated 4 link.

What the heck is up with that pinion angle?

And you really need to put a cross member back in there where the upper bars are attached to the frame!

[panhandler62]

I'm gonna take a wild guess and say that the P.O. removed the center section of the cross member because the prop shaft needed clearance.

[The Big Green]

Cut the back off and start over. That 4-link is slightly off being parallel. Take a look at my truck, same 4-link but what it should look like. Where's the panhard bar?, It needs one. The notch will sway like crazy.

[The Big Green]

Originally Posted by panhandler62

I'm gonna take a wild guess and say that the P.O. removed the center section of the cross member because the prop shaft needed clearance.

LOL, may be true but it needs something in there. Mine has a straight crossmember that has the carrier bearing on it and tubing over that for the 4-link bars. This truck the bars aren't sturdy at all. Your right on the PO thing, the D-shaft clearance is the reason for that.

[DHPmike]

definitely needs something to keep the axle centered.

[N2TRUX]

Ok, it look like a mess, but I think it can be saved. Lets take a look at what you have, and what you need.

1. C-notch- Inspect this thoroughly. It "appears" to be installed correctly and the welds look pretty solid. I would consider a brace between the rails connecting the notch

2. Axle- I don't know why you would want to change to a 9", but you do need to remove this axle and start fresh. From the pics it looks like the lower bars are angled outward, and the upper bars are angled inward. This is not a "semi-triangulated 4-link" it's just a poorly installed 4 link.
The lower bars should run parallel and the bag mounts should allow the bag to travel without being offset. The upper bars should either be truly triangulated, or parallel. If you do choose to run parallel bars (my preference) then you will need a panhard bar or a Watts link to maintain side to side control of the axle.

3. Crossmember- This is hacked, and needs replaced. find an factory unit or build one that matches your crossbrace (bridge) that you need on your C-notch.

4. Pinion angle- I have no idea what they were thinking when they set the pinion angle. You will need to address that when you cut all the 4 link mounts off and install them correctly.

[jjjmm56]

move the bags to the center of the trailing arms and back closer to the step notch

[spankbomb]

Update: I've pulled the rear axle, plasma cut the PO bag mounts and have removed all of the leaf spring brackets from the frame. I need to remove the stock x-member and the rivets from the front leaf spring hangars.

Any suggestions on removing the rivets w/o mangling the frame holes? Does anyone make a plate that matches the hole pattern of the front leaf spring hangars?

Thanks,
Jon D.

[Spray-Bomb]

Gonna look cool when done man

What kind of wheels are on it now ???

[spankbomb]

I'm going to use the 17" Cragar Soft 8s that are on it now. I'll probably have them blasted and powder coated either black or gun metal grey.

[c10addict]

Originally Posted by spankbomb

Update: I've pulled the rear axle, plasma cut the PO bag mounts and have removed all of the leaf spring brackets from the frame. I need to remove the stock x-member and the rivets from the front leaf spring hangars.

Any suggestions on removing the rivets w/o mangling the frame holes? Does anyone make a plate that matches the hole pattern of the front leaf spring hangars?

Thanks,
Jon D.

To get the rivets out use a good old angle grinder or cut off wheel... Grind the head flush then get a good punch and smack them out with a hammer..

[c10addict]

Honestly you may want to post some pics of the front Z as well after looking at the work that was done on the rear... There is a ton of knowledge on the site and improvements may be needed up front too..

[DHPmike]

I have many pics of a Z done at my shop on an 86 frame with no body on it. many good things can be learned.

Theres also pics of the step notch, 4 link and watts link on the same frame which lays body with no body drop.

[spankbomb]

So now that the hangers are off, if I grind off the head of the rivet on the backside of the frame, I should be able to hammer out the remaining slug, correct?

c10addict, my plan was to finish the rear first before moving on to the front in order to keep my sanity. I know there is plenty of grinding, boxing and bracing that needs to be done up front and I'm definitely going to consult here before I dive in.

DHPmike, I saw the pics of the 86 frame before but I do need the link. I'll send you a PM.

Again, does anyone make frame plates or has a CAD file I could give to a CNC shop so I can make my own parallel 4 link mount?

Thanks,
Jon D.

[DHPmike]

[spankbomb]

Sounds good. I just need to find someone who has the design.

[lolife99]

subscribing,...

[LONGHAIR]

This sure has the look of a deal that is agaisnt the rules....from both ends. Non-subscribing members are not supposed to be asking to buy parts nor are they to offer them for sale.

I cannot post the link here due to me not being an advertiser so if you need the link just PM me.

....and this is not cool either. Definately a "work-around" of the rules.

[spankbomb]

So, I emailed with PB over the weekend but as of today it looks like I will have plenty of time on my hands to make the plates myself...



I'll post progress pics of what I'm able to accomplish now that my weekdays are open.

Later,
Jon D.

[spankbomb]

I thought I'd go ahead and update where I'm at.

I've finally finished tearing down the rear suspension, removing the leaf spring brackets, cleaning up the frame, removing the gutted x-member, cleaning up the welds on the C-notch and beginning my frame plates for the frame mounts for the parallel four link.

After I finish the plates, I will install the bracing on the notch and make sure everything is square. Then I'll go thru the 12-bolt, removing all the PO's brackets and the leaf spring perches and starting new.

Now, onto some pics:













I know the plates aren't perfect, but they were the best I could do free hand with the plasma cutter. Spent another 10 minutes cleaning them up on the bench grinder.

Now I need to start putting together my parts list to for brackets, tubing, tube ends, joints so I can order parts and begin building.

A quick question about bags. The PO had Contitech 110-15 bags. Does anyone have firsthand experience with these bags?

Later,
Jon D.

[smashingchuck]

Where do you plan on mounting the bags?

[spankbomb]

My current thinking is behind the axle, outside the frame rails, but I am open to suggestions/ideas.

[jjjmm56]

Just a thought you might want to weld up all the holes in the frame that your not using. Also boxing it. Reason for welding the holes is I cracked my frame at a hole like that.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by spankbomb

My current thinking is behind the axle, outside the frame rails, but I am open to suggestions/ideas.

On a bar, or directly to the axle?