Disc swap track width questions

[777ralph]

I've been reading a lot here about Disc brake swaps, and full 73-87 crossmember swaps for my 64 shortbox. What do these swaps do to the track width? The 73-87 trucks have a wider track (wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface) don't they? If there is extra width, is it in the crossmember or A arms? Rear axle's wider too, isn't it?
Ralph

[1964C10]

Ralph, I am working on putting together a thread with all the information you are looking for. It's in my sig, let me know if that doesn't cover it and I will help you find it so I can it to the thread.

Nice truck! those colors are awesome.

[777ralph]

WOW, 1964C10, great Tech thread! No track width info though. I'm trying to do a "junkyard parts" 6 lug disc swap. Looks like Captainfab's on to something. I'd like to do dropped spindles, but source everything else locally. still curious about track width changes, though, and any other "tripovers". Anybody?
Ralph

[lolife99]

Track width is about 3/4" per side wider. So is the 71-72 style 5 lug rear ends.
Crossmembers and a-arms are the same, just different balljoints, tie rods, steering, etc.
Keep the crossmember and swap the just the spindles or spindles and a-arms.
Use '73-up stuff with aftermarket 6-lug rotors and you will be good.
I suggest ECE, (Early Classis Enterprises)

[777ralph]

Thanks Lolife! That helps. The aftermarket 6-lug rotors make me nervous, though. Rather use stock, easily available parts if I could. I was hoping the 6-lug rotors were just 88-98 stuff that happened to fit 73-87 spindles.
Ralph

[Tx Firefighter]

I never sweated the aftermarket rotors. The ECE ones are made in the USA quality stuff. No, they aren't available at your local parts store on a Sunday afternoon like OEM rotors are, but really, how often do you just suddenly tear up a rotor ? Worst case, you order another one and wait 4 or 5 days to get it.

[777ralph]

Firefighter, you're probably right, but I did ruin one once due to a seized rear caliper, and I was 8 hours from home. Plus i'm in Canada, which probably adds a week to the shipping, plus border hassles. Just looking for the simplest way, if one exists.
Ralph

[lolife99]

Don't be scared of ECE rotors. High Quality parts. I have them on my '69.
Also,... NICE '64!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Don't be scared of ECE rotors. High Quality parts. I have them on my '69.
Also,... NICE '64!

Very nice @ that!

[70 Suburban]

I just did the swap cost about 300 with new ball joints and tie rods. All stock parts. But mine are from a 2000 g20 and the stock wheels will not fit

[777ralph]

70 Suburban, that sounds interesting. Done on a 70 suburban, I assume. Please give us more info: 5 or 6 lug? Which A arms, Balljoints, spindles, discs? Is the truck back on the road? If there's a mix of stock parts we could use on 63-66's, I'd love to hear it.
Ralph

[70 Suburban]

ahh yeah I forget about my name. its on a 66 c10. I used 87 3/4 ton lowers. so I have rubber bushings. it also made pressing out the old ball joints ez. I used the ball joints both upper and lower for the 2000 g20 van they pressed in to the arms like butter. re bushed the cross shafts also. they are six lug and big. I chose to use the rims off the van cause they look like the stock wheels but are 16 in. I picked up the spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers from salvage from a 2000 g20 van. and the lower arms from a 87 3/4 ton. for 151. and change. I used the master cyl from a 71 blazer. my truck is a power brake truck. I bent my own lines and done.

[1964C10]

70suburban, I am doing a thread on swaps like you did, would you mind expanding a little more so I can add it in? I would appreciate it!

[70 Suburban]

Sure ill get the pics up for you to... Maybe do a step by step pic thing. Like mags do

[777ralph]

I think we have a winner! Six lug discs with stock parts. Thanks 70 Burb! Looking forward to ANYTHING you can add!
Ralph

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

Sure ill get the pics up for you to... Maybe do a step by step pic thing. Like mags do

Thanks man!

[Captainfab]

Here is the original post on the factory 6 lug discs that got me going in the right direction. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ad.php?t=35042

The 2000 G20 Van that 70 Suburban used should be the same parts providing it was a 7200GVW van.

I can provide part numbers for this swap if anyone wants them. I haven't had the time to install them, but I have most of the parts.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Here is the original post on the factory 6 lug discs that got me going in the right direction. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ad.php?t=35042

The 2000 G20 Van that 70 Suburban used should be the same parts providing it was a 7200GVW van.

I can provide part numbers for this swap if anyone wants them. I haven't had the time to install them, but I have most of the parts.

The most interesting quote I found out of that thread was this one:

All in all, it's really not that cheap. I spent around $400 and I only bought what I had to plus two new rotors. You could easily spend $600 plus if you were buying all new bearings and rebuilding the calipers etc...

The only reason I did this swap was because I wanted to use all parts available at my local AutoZone, O-Riely's, etc. and not have to order special rotors from some company that could go out of business in 5 years.





I still maintain that the 73-87 5-lug font suspensions are cheaper with the addition of a set of $85/each (approx.) 6-lug rotors (from companies like ECE).

I have a complete front frame stub from my '86 1/2 ton 2wd,... I will sell for $50.
Add 6-lug rotors and go.


And the other side of my arguement,... which original parts do you want to keep?
Balljoints?
Bearings?
Calipers?
Rotors? (original 5 lug or buying 6 lug)

Also no 3/4 ton lower a-arm to swap out.

I think buying a drop disc brake spindles (for your year truck) or using original height disc brake spindles is ok.
Everything else needs to be new from your local parts store.
No need for "so called" high priced kits.

All of this is just my opinion.

[SCOTI]

^^^^^^^
Agree 100%.

[70 Suburban]

I have it done but its in work...Does anyone want to post it. I dont have the same work at work as I do at home.

[70 Suburban]

Does no one have work 07 or newer?

[gater 66C-10]

I bought a 78 truck for parts. I used the entire spindle setup. You have to move the 66 outer tie rod end to the inside and use the 78 outer tie rod end. You do have to buy a special adjuster to go between the two. I also used the 78 rear end. You have to buy a kit to convert to the coil suspension setup of the 66. It is wider, but it gives a better apperance than the stock suspension. setup.

[70 Suburban]

i STILL HAVE THE COPLETE WRITE UP BUT i DONT HAVE OFFICE O7 AT WORK...IF ANYONE HAS IT i CAN EMAIL AND THEY CAN POST

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

i STILL HAVE THE COPLETE WRITE UP BUT i DONT HAVE OFFICE O7 AT WORK...IF ANYONE HAS IT i CAN EMAIL AND THEY CAN POST

PM sent.

[SCOTI]

  64-66 6 LUG DISK SWAP
ALL STOCK PARTS by 70Suburban
I wanted to take a few minutes to explain how I did my disk brake swap. Here I will have pics and a play by play so you can fallow along and maybe do this yourself.
The same technique could be used to update your suspension or to do a 5 lug swap using aftermarket or stock parts.
I chose this only because I like the old school look of the six lug and I want the safety of disk in my daily driver.
Now on with what you are all waiting for.

First off Jack up the truck. Use jack stands just under the cab on the frame. This way the stands are out of the way and you are safe. Plus you will need the jack later.
Next remove your wheels and, set to the side. This is a great opportunity to power wash or just scrape and clean the truck. We all know we don’t spend enough time here.

After you get the wheel off and clean up here you will see a few castle nuts with cotter keys. You will need to start to remove the keys first.
Start with the tie rod end. Take off the key then the nut make sure the threads are clean, Then but the nut part way back on. You then will strike with a BFH the steering knuckle. It may take a few good hits but you will see it pop up slightly.

Now go to the other side and remove the shock. This is also a great time to upgrade them.

Its time to use that jack. Place the jack under the control arm just under the spring from the front of the truck. Don’t pick it up leave it down about an inch.

Remove the lower key then the nut. Clean the threads then thread the nut back on a few threads maybe about half way. Don’t tighten it all the way down. Turn the knuckle all the way to the side so you can see the back of it. Use your BFH to strike the knuckle where the ball joint comes through. Don’t hit the nut. You will see the ball joint drop to the nut. Now raise the jack to the arm. Remove the nut. Lower the jack slow. You should be clear of the spring and anything else that could come lose.

Remove the brake lines you wont be needing them. The new lines come in from the front.
Now you can remove the last key and nut. Again remove the nut clean the threads on the ball joint and reinstall the nut about half way. Use the BFH to strike the knuckle. It should fall out of the way but stand clear so it doesn’t take a toe from you.

Now for the power tools. Grind away the four rivet heads on the upper ball joint. I used an air hammer to get under the ball joint and push it off.

This is a good time to drill your holes for the brake hose.
The new ball joint install is cut and dry. Insert ball joint. Bolt in ball joint.

The lower arm is attached by two u-bolts. Remove them and the lower arms will fall out of the way.

I used 87 Chevy ¾ ton truck lower arms because the lower ball joints will press in and they use rubber bushings.

I cleaned the arms, pressed out the old ball joints, painted, Then pressed in the new ball joints from the 2000 Chevy van.
Now install the new arms the same way you to ok out the old ones with the u-bolts.

Use the jack again under the spring perch. Raise it slightly. Set the coil spring in place make sure that the lower coil is in the correct position. Raise it up a bit more to seat it in the top.
Now install the new steering knuckle onto the lower ball joint.

Set the upper ball joint into the knuckle. Tighten up the nuts. Install your new cotter keys, and lower the jack.

Now you can reinstall your shocks.

Now ill go over what I had to do for the brake lines. I used 5/16 brake line from the auto parts. I also have a double flair tool. They sell the ends so you can cut to fit as needed. Install your calipers and, run your brake line to where you like. I ran mine on the front cross member. I drilled the front line mount just under the upper arm, and kept the flex line close to the cross member.
For the brake lines I took apart the original lines from the master cyl to the prop valve to use the fittings. I wanted to relocate the valve lower and closer to the frame. I used the stock rear lines and just capped off the tees. I bent a new 3/16 line for the front added a tee and went to the prop valve. The disk lines go to the front unlike the front drum that go to the rear.

At a later time I will be redoing the lines and moving the rear line to the driver side. But for now with my budget this is what I had to do.


My truck came with power brakes. I used the master cylinder From a 71 Chevy.
Here is a parts list of what I used.
• 2000 Chevy full size van steering knuckle
• 2000 Chevy van rotor
• 2000 Chevy van calipers
• 2000 Chevy van upper ball joints in stock 66 arms
• 2000 Chevy van lower ball joints in stock 87 ¾ ton lower arms
• 2000 Chevy van tie rod ends
• 1987 Center link/drag link
• 2000 Chevy van brake lines
• 3/16 brake line for front
• ¼ brake line for rear
• 1971 Chevy master cylinder and proportioning valve
• Stock 66 Chevy power booster
Note: stock wheels will not clear calipers.
I also cut one coil when I took them out this will not lower your truck.


I tried to copy the pics provided within the document over w/the text, but I couldn't save them for downloading.... Scot.