How much rust is too much rust for a project.....?

[robby5323]

Well, my recent attempt at getting a new project somewhat fell through. The truck just seemed to have too much rust to take on repairing... Both front fenders were rotted, floor pan areas had holes, fender aprons rottend, the hood was rotted on the passenger side front about 14 inches worth, the area beneath the grille was rotting, the roof seams were very soft, the tailgate had numerous chuncks missing....

How much rust is too much when you take on a project truck...?

I was looking for something I could work on a little at a time and just cruise around in, taking my time. However, just to get something like that to be somewhat road worthy would probably take som hefty repairs...?

Just disappointed and venting a little...

[markeb01]

I've driven old cars most of my adult life, and after buying one rusty car, I never did it again. It was easier to find rust free cars many moons ago, but it still is somewhat possible, it just costs more. Rust repair has to be one of the most expensive aspects of restoration unless you can do it all yourself. There are some threads on here showing incredible workmanship replacing rotted metal, but it's way more than I would have the enthusiasm to tackle. Don't be too discouraged. There's something out there that will fit your ambitions. Compliments for knowing not to jump in over your head. You could have been posting this thread a year from now after you spent a 1,000 manhours and still didn't have something you could drive.

[jonzcustomshop]

I agree, every time I try to fix something that is rusted, I say never again!, however some spots can't be avoided....
typical minor rust on our year trucks are the fenders, foot wells , lower rear cab corners and rockers,(alot of times a driver rocker will rust out under the sill plate, and the rest will be fine.)
If a 60-66 has any more rust than minor rust in those common areas, I would keep looking.
Don't forget about the big trucks, except for the fenders, inner fenders, grille and core support , and the bolt in tranny tunnel, they are the same cab, they are ysually higher up and get a little less rust than thier c/10/20/30 counterparts...

[jgh64pkup]

look at alans classics build thread his truck had a lot of rust but he fixed it
he is a body man by trade so i guess it wasnt too big of a deal for him
heres his build thread Project Vitamin C10

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

look at alans classics build thread his truck had a lot of rust but he fixed it
he is a body man by trade so i guess it wasnt too big of a deal for him
heres his build thread Project Vitamin C10

Thanks for the props.

Robby
Welcome aboard. As you well know this is a great place with a bunch of caring people.

As far as your question goes it depends on your budget and luck. It's cheaper to find a (so-called) rust free truck. Especially if you have to pay for rust repair. Expect rust (minimal-major), but be patient and you will be happy. I'm glad you didn't jump on the first one. Good luck.

[fryco]

If your wondering about the rust you can see..... RUN!!!! You haven't found the really fun stuff yet!!! Rust is a waste of money, often drains your whole budget before your started. Hell, if all you have to do is fit a glass hood from UP22, you'll be broke, if your paying someone

Spend a extra $500-$1000 now, and have something when your done...

Just me,

[LILRED66]

Welcome to the forums from Kansas City, KS.

I consider this to be too much rust to repair, but many others would tackle this cab, without hesitation. It needed new cab corners, inner & outer rocker panels, front & rear cab supports, kick panels, floorboards and the bottom of the "A" pillars. I figured the patch panels for the customer and it was over $1,300.00, plus the labor costs to install. It wasn't prudent to spend over $2,500.00 in repairs, considering I could find a virtually rust-free, dent-free cab for around $1,000.00, not to mention, he would still have a $2,500.00 repaired cab.

With the amazing work I have seen done by the members of this forum, both beginnners and seasoned veterans, I am not trying to discourage anyone from tackling a project, however, if you haven't done this type of work or don't have the skills, tools, time, space or money, enbarking on a challenging project can quickly dampen your spirits and enthusiam...and your wallet.

Regardless of your decision, I suggest having a plan that incorporates your time, money and skills.

I failed to mention, you can find a complete truck for a great price sometimes, just start traveling the back roads.

[N2TRUX]

robby5323- I noticed your from Tyler, TX. You should be able to find fairly solid trucks in your area. If not, reach out a bit as they are still out there.

[robby5323]

Yea, I'm gonna keep looking around. I'm checking craigslist and watching ebay...

[63 & 64 Bowties]

The roof problems alone would have made me run. I did one once. ONCE. Never again. It was rotted at the drip rails.

[JaggedEdge]

RUST!!!!!!

I AIN'T SKEERED. Or too smart either.

Projects like this one http://s676.photobucket.com/albums/v...gedEdge_album/ seem to gravitate to my shop.

My Sweetie (please note dear.. I capitalized it) thinks I have "issues".
She claims I am some sort of Crusader who seeks out the most hopeless of projects to stoke my ego that "I saved it".
If you think this one is bad.... I have about four more just like it if not worse!!!!!!!

In reality I like to excercise my limited talent every chance I can and projects like this really appeal to me.
I don't have to do this for a living so I can afford the time it takes. And brother..... the time is endless. For every pinhole you see there are five more lurking underneath. I will admit... I do love a challenge.
I am the original "tightwad" and will try to make something out of nothing every chance I get.
The project in the link is an ebay score 'bout 4 years ago, that I have ragged the hell out of. Man the fun I have had with this thing in incredible. The cab floor and supports finally got so weak the center hump 'bout rubbed a hole in the top of the tranny, so I decided to tear it down.
Good decision cause it wasn't going to go much further. Pardon some of the pics (I was trying to identify what the drivetrain came out of, as I didn't build the truck, so there are a lot of rearend shots.) but you can see what I mean.
In a couple shots you can see the '40 Chev that is my next project.
I am new to the site so don't have my chit together with an album and such but am working on it.
Have very few pics of previous builds finished, and even less of the actual work.
Never been much of a techno geek and didn't have a digital cam back then.
Back then being about '74-76 when I first started messing with hot rods.
My 21 year old son has officially started calling me "old fart". Course he isn't that bright either cause he is spending all his spare time bagging Jap trucks.(and in my best ForestGump imitation "thats all I have to say 'bout that")

So.... if you are looking for a dollar return... run like hell. If you are looking to learn metalshaping and not just part swapping... GO FOR IT!!!!
If you get a chance check out David Gardiners DVD. Youtube has some clips.
Its a way to combine two hobbies.. metalshaping and hot rods. (And no... we aren't related and I don't get a fee for plugging him.) he also hangs out on MetalMeet.com and is a real down to earth guy.

To me..... the best it gets!!!
Just my nickels worth

Had to edit/add LilRed66 is absolutely right!!!! You really need to weigh all the factors involved. If you're like me, just hobby, time, space, tools available, and want to learn some stuff its great, if its your daily driver you work on in between getting to your regular job... you really might rethink the scope of it. I would also add... I bought a "rust free" cab w/title to replace the one I am working on ,paid almost half of wht I paid for the whole truck, and after blasting it had wayyyyy more rust than I thought. better than this one but almost as much work so I decided to go ahead with the original. No it didn't come from Red and I am really jones'in to go check out his place. (soon)

[mbgmike]

We do this for a living and you have to like doing it. If you don't you will get sick of it pretty quick. To me if the rust is just in the rocker, cab corner and pillars it not an impossible project to take on.

If the rust is in the roof, cowl ,eyebrow forget it. We fix them even hand make the parts that aren't repopped and I get tired of doing them. It is really next to impossible to actually stop it from rusting again, you just slow it down.

We are doing a chevelle floor and both full quarter panel replacements with inner rear wells right now. The owner is doing alot of the work and is really excited about it. I just do the welding and show him what to do. I like that.
He is a typical customer, He has opened his eyes when he saw what we had to go through and how many tools it takes. You can buy a truck for all the tools you need to do it right. I work on trucks for others but you won't see me doing one for me. I will just buy one already done. It easier

Stick with the easy stuff below the floor

[brandon283]

im almost regretting not getting a new cab for my truck, only reason i kept mine is its matching numbers with the 283..and its a short box. i put in floor pans, rockers inner/outter, cab corners, kick panels, bottoms of the a pillars, front and rear cab mounts, new fenders, differant doors(that need corners) and i just got another cab that i am cutting the roof off, and the "eyebrow"? (panel above the windshield). my roof was buckled up and the front edge is rotted, so i figured it would be easier to swap roofs. also sumone cut a hole in my inside roof panel, so im changing that from the other cab also. the seam around my windshield is rotted on the passenger side too.. figured that out last night when i took the windshield out..this one shoulda prolly got scrapped. but since im doing the work myself its not costing a whole lot..just takes time lol.

[jonzcustomshop]

brandon, check out the 60 build in my sig, I chopped it, and there are some good pics of what the roof pillars look like cut up.
If you have a good roof available I would cut the pillars and replace the roof (stock hieght) before I tried to start chasing rust... rust is like an iceberg, what you see is only about 1/3 of what needs to be fixed

[karlbenz]

here is a link to my rust bucket. I have never done body work, but I do metal fabrication for a living. I have had this truck since bout 90. been sittin since 97. so far i've only bought a rocker panel and 2 fender repair panels. the rest I fabbed myself, including the inner rocker panel. if I didn't do fab work and access to the machinery that I do I wouldn't have messed with it

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=344153

[TwoFiftyShifter]

You can replace just about as much rust as you can fix.... some of these guys I think are nuts, with all the fab work they did I can't understand why they didn't just get a different cab...

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by TwoFiftyShifter

You can replace just about as much rust as you can fix.... some of these guys I think are nuts, with all the fab work they did I can't understand why they didn't just get a different cab...

some of us just aint got that kind of jack layin around

[TwoFiftyShifter]

You can score a decent cab for cheap if you look around.... save you some time too....

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by TwoFiftyShifter

You can score a decent cab for cheap if you look around.... save you some time too....

cab aint costin me nothing. had it for years. paid $125.00 for it then.drove it for a few years too. time I got, money I don't. broke is broke. I aint skeered of a little work.

[brandon283]

yeah. well i thought about it, im gunna be into the truck for like 15 000 + when im dun, so whats the differance, might as well take sum more time to repair my cab..and still have a numbers matching truck..everycab u will find has rust..maybe not as bad, but its still there.

[brandon283]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

brandon, check out the 60 build in my sig, I chopped it, and there are some good pics of what the roof pillars look like cut up.
If you have a good roof available I would cut the pillars and replace the roof (stock hieght) before I tried to start chasing rust... rust is like an iceberg, what you see is only about 1/3 of what needs to be fixed

i checked out every pic on ur chop top, thats gunna be a really wicked looking truck. what do u think about just seperating the welds on my donor cab in the drip rail just to get the skin off(i will plasma the top off a couple inches away just to have a smaller section to work on, but prolly diegrind out the welds and seperate it), and do the same on th ecab im fixing and just plug weld the roof panel in the drip rail like factory. i am also gunna replace the inner roof piece(headliner i guess) and the eyebrow piece. prolly same thing. just seperate factory spot welds..? doing that all next week, christmas break haha

[tapeworm]

It all depends on your skill level, and how much you want to do. Unlike many muscle cars and hot rods, there are decent trucks out there for a resonable price.

Cab corners, rockers, fenders, ect are one thing. When the cowl is rusted to the point the doors no longer fit (like mine), thats when I decided to find a different one. Too bad I'm replacing my big window cab with a small window cab

[brandon283]

are you going to convert ur small window into a big window?

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by brandon283

are you going to convert ur small window into a big window?

never understood the attraction of a big window? I always liked the small window way better

[brandon283]

me too actually, everyones like ohh u should do a big window conversion, i thought i was the only one that liked the idea of a 9 inch tall window in teh back lol. if i could find a big window cab i would be happy tho,,not many around.