Dudes '68 GMC

[PHAT TONY]

I don't have much story here, I'm restoring this truck for a local fella;his Gramps bought it nearly new in Vulcan, Alberta. His Grampy passed it to his dad who passed it to him soon after. We're makin it GM fresh right down to duplicating the dealership decals from 1968. I spose the best part of the story is "dude" learning to drive in this truck in the 70's, then parking it in the barn not long after to buy a newer truck. A couple years ago, a peek in the soon to collapse barn revealed the old pick-up still sleeping in the corner! As of now the frame is being blasted, painted and rebuilt to stock(drum brakes etc.), and here's what I've done so far, later posts will be mainly pictures-we ALL like pictures!

[PHAT TONY]

Couple more.

[jlaird]

I see you fit the rocker and door without the fender. There's no problem in doing that? I'm at that point an don't know if I should go through the hassle of putting the entire front clip on just to get the rocker in.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by jlaird

I'm at that point an don't know if I should go through the hassle of putting the entire front clip on just to get the rocker in.

That is the best way, but keep in mind the doors can only fit the opening in a few ways because the opening and door size do not change just the up/down and in/out on the rocker. I always fit the door to the opening before removing the rocker if possible then drill a locating hole through the hinge and A-pillar to get close when it goes back on. Also pay close attention to the gap around the door on the inside were the weather stripping will contact the door and try and keep it uniform for a good seal.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[PHAT TONY]

1.The leading edge of the door and front of the rocker need to be on the same "plane" as they form the gap to the fender.
2. Moving the door in or out too far from factory at the bottom hinge will affect how the window frame fits at the drip rail at the top rear radius (w-strip contact).
Keep in mind also that mods may be required to replacement rockers/cab corners for fit and nice gaps; I had to pie-cut the right side and "roll" the rocker out to meet the cab corner and make a decent door bottom gap, haven't tried the left side yet.

[PHAT TONY]

Well,...this project slowed as I thought I'd rather have a "boss" stroke me a cheque every couple weeks so I got a job. Coupla months was MORE than enough of that!!! So I'm back in my own shop again full(ish) time,and as promised, here's more pics of the '68.

[PHAT TONY]

More...

[PHAT TONY]

MMMMM pictures....

[PHAT TONY]

After the floors were blasted in/out they got chromate primer and a healthy build of boxliner. Here's the last few for now as this project will prolly get "shelved" for a couple months; I don't want to paint the cab etc. until I have the rolling chassis to put it on(no scratchy from peoples) and his mech has a fair bit of work to do here, ya see.

[LOW DOUGH]

Lookin nice

[chevy88]

Rust won't bother that truck for a while. Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[mcbassin]

Man I'm diggin the roticery!

[thelonerife]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Man I'm diggin the roticery!

me too. I need one of those and a shop to put it in.

[nuke1]

good work tony. makes me jealous that you can work all day on your stuff. Now lets see some more.

[PHAT TONY]

Originally Posted by nuke1

good work tony. makes me jealous that you can work all day on your stuff. Now lets see some more.

I WISH!!! The GMC is a customers, I have however spent the last week and a bit on my Blazer-pics in that thread soon, awaiting a '68 Dart GTS 383 project for a repeat customer.