Rear window and seal install.

[Slow Build]

I've looked at a few of the threads on installing the rear window, but I have a few questions.

1. The Factory Assembly Manual shows the two ends of the weatherseal meeting at top center and says use cement weatherstrip. Nobody has mentioned using adhesives to connect ends. Does that sound right?

2. How do I put in the weatherstrip retainer? I'm guessing soap and water, but any tricks to this part? Do you have the two ends also meet at top center? I would think this needs to be done before puting window in the cab.

3. What is the best way to cut the extra seal off? I don't want a gap up top so I want to make sure I that this weatherstrip will shrink after install.

Any info would be appreciated.

[Slow Build]

Pictures of the seal.

[xratt]

I just did this a month ago or so. I tried this method of taping to the glass and it did not work so well. Then i reread the instructions online. I then tried to installing the seal on the body first. Tried roping it in, then ended up using a flat plastic stick to work in the tough areas. Used lots of WD-40 also. After my first try of cuttuing the seal, i cut it too short. Opps. So I added a small section to fill the gap. It turned out ok, good thing its not a show truck. Later I will buy another seal and try it again.

[LILRED66]

The rubber rear window grommet goes on the glass and then installs in the opening. I recommend using water-base KY for the lubricant, so cleanup is easier and it will not break down the rubber. Set the botton on the lip of the cab from the inside and pull the rope as you go around from the outside, which pulls the rubber return to the outside. After the window and rubber seal are in place, you insert the rubber bead from the outside with the two ends meeting at the top, near the middle.

One the door-to-cab seal, the bulb goes to the outside to cushion the door. I stretch out the seal and apply a bead of black RTV or weatherstrip adhesive to the inside of the seal. I let it set for several minutes to get a slight set on it. Starting at the bottom, near the middle of the door jamb, begin straddling the sheet metal lip around the perimeter of the door jamb, without stretching the seal, until the two ends come together at the starting point. Cut both ends at a 45 degree angle (scarf joint) where they meet. This is the installation method explained in the shop manual. I then apply strips of masking tape every few inches around the perimeter to secure the seal until the adhesive is set. Don't apply too much pressure with the tape, to avoid making the adhesive ooze out and making your seal wavy.

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by LILRED66

After the window and rubber seal are in place, you insert the rubber bead from the outside with the two ends meeting at the top, near the middle.

I was starting to think that the rubber bead (weatherstrip retainer) went on before installing the glass in the truck. I got chaulk line string to wrap around the seal but now I'm reading that I might need small rope. I just don't see how I can get 1/4" rope in that gap.

How do you insert the bead?
Any special tool or just lube and push into place?
Should I use the same water-base KY for the lubricant or would soapy water work on that?

[markeb01]

I agree with LILRED66, use KY it's obviously slippery, cleans up with water and won't damage the rubber or paint. I bought one of the special tools to install the bead seal:

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-197...info/01%2D405/

The photo doesn't show it real well, but the locking bead goes through the eye at the end, and presses the locking strip in place while spreading the gap at the same time. For me it was easy with the tool.

Just like on a windshield the rope goes in the pinch weld slot in the seal. Chaulk line string might work, but it's going to be harder on the seal than a larger rope would be. Larger string/rope makes for a more gentle fold as the lip is pulled over the pinch weld. If the string is too small it will tend to want to tear the seal instead of pulling it over the flange.

When you're installing the locking strip, cut it a bit long and try and work as much in to the butt joint as you can. Just like xratt, the first time I did one I cut it too short as well and fixed it just like he did.

[Slow Build]

That tool looks somewhat like the one the guy uses in this YouTube vidio I found. He sure makes it look easy. I dont think the window install applies and he uses W/D 40 pretty liberally. I don't think my window would hold up to that other tool. But for puting in the bead this is really helpful.

YouTube- How To Install A Rubber Mounted Side...

[Slow Build]

Well, it's finally in. I ended up placing the seal on the cab first. I left the seal about a half inch longer then needed and jammed it in place. Then I carefully worked the window into the seal. Sorta like pulling a bike tire off a wheel. When it was in I pushed the window to center it a little better and shoved it right through to the interior. Did that careful thing again. This time I backed up my centering pushes from the backside. Then I got a universal windsheild locking strip tool (universal means it fits nothing well). It took me a while to get the hang of it. Once I worked it into place I left the locking strip about a quarter inch longer than needed and worked it into the slot. I was working alone so I figured this would be the best way. What can I say, it worked. So really it was quite a bit like the video, just in realllllllly slowwww motion.

[protrash64]

I bought a small, cheap, upholstery tool that fit in the slot for the locking bead. It spread it apart enough to lock the strip down right behind the tool. I used a silicon spray to lube, but you ccan use Windex and water, also.

[LostMy65]

I'm getting to this point.
A bump to hear from other's experiences.

[BR3W CITY]

Just did mine last week. Don't bother taping it, just get a second set of hands...the tape will only end up frustrating you.

Many say use soapy water, but because it dried out too fast, I chose to use a non-silicon lubricant. More cleanup, but its still ok for the paint and it doenst' dry out and get sticky.

I used some cord from the hardware store wrapped into the seal, with the seal on the window. I went inside the truck and kept pressure on the window while my bro pulled the cord from the outside. It was a bit of a fuss but only took about 30 minutes.

We came back with the locking piece and used a plastic prying tool and an aluminum exacto blade handle to push it into place and seat it.

[DLOE65]

How do you keep the seal on the window at the corners? I tried this but it kept falling off and kind of Bowed out on each corner
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[64fleetside]

Dunno why everyone wants to rope these in-the easier way(laid out in the shop manual, BTW) is to put the rubber in the cab hole, slip the glass inside the channel(I use a nylon auto glass "bone"), then install the outer locking strip. Two sets of hands are needed for the big rear glass. There is a tool available which makes that locking strip installation easier, but I've installed many with the same bone.