homemade c notch question

[kev2809]

I was wondering......I noticed a bolt in c notch only gains about 2.25" of frame clearance, but it leaves a lot of frame left. how high can you go up the frame to notch before its too much? would it be safe to leave..maybe an inch and a half of frame left, and then plate all the inside up?

[N2TRUX]

There is a reason most C-notches are shallow. One is strength, the other is clearance. You are as low as you can get unless you plan to cut the bed. Your also pretty much maxed out on frame clearance too.

[kev2809]

cutting the floor is not an issue...im worried about my frame being strong in that area. what if I welded in support on top, would that halp enough to secure it, or is it not worth trying. I just figured the bolt in c notches were made so small was because of bed/floor clearance.

[Shane]

If you aren't worried about the frame and are planning on doing some welding anyway, then I would skip the bolt-in c notch and go with a full step notch.

[mr48chev]

Almost every slammed truck build thread on here has C-notch photos so there should be plenty of ideas to pick from.

[kev2809]

yes your right mr48chev, but they are either bolt in or a monster notch. im tryin to land in between them lol.

shane, your probably right. i would like to get a weld in step notch but i cant find anyone to install for me for cheaper than 400 bucks. if i was able to notch the frame a little more than a bolt in c notch, the labor shouldnt be so expensive to plate it all up

[lofly'a]

although a bit pricey the Porterbuilt rear drop member is 95% bolt in.

[mr48chev]

Can you possibly make patterns of what you would want the notch to be and have someone cut the plates and fillers out with a Plasma.

It shouldn't really be rocket science to do it the way you want.

[Puropedo]

Hey Kevin, Im pretty sure you have seen my custom made mild c-notch from my 68 cst project, I needed about 3" of clearance in order to lay with 29" tires but decided to go with 4" (just in case) so that left me with about 1" on the frame, (too weak and flimsy for my taste) so I went on and reinforced it with some square tubing on top of the frame rails, turned out great, frame is ridgid as is suppose to, here's a few pics....

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by lofly'a

Attachment 517129although a bit pricey the Porterbuilt rear drop member is 95% bolt in.

i would love to get that one but its out of my price range...looks good. thats my favorite notch kit!

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Can you possibly make patterns of what you would want the notch to be and have someone cut the plates and fillers out with a Plasma.

It shouldn't really be rocket science to do it the way you want.

i dont think i know anyone with a plasma, i wonder how much it would cost for someone to make a small plate kit?

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Hey Kevin, Im pretty sure you have seen my custom made mild c-notch from my 68 cst project, I needed about 3" of clearance in order to lay with 29" tires but decided to go with 4" (just in case) so that left me with about 1" on the frame, (too weak and flimsy for my taste) so I went on and reinforced it with some square tubing on top of the frame rails, turned out great, frame is ridgid as is suppose to, here's a few pics....

and this is where i got the idea from lol. do you think a 3" or 3 1/2" would be safe without the top square tubing reinforcement?

right now my frame rests on my axle and what i would want to do is make the notch now, then stack up a little cash for someone to plate it all in for me. the truck will not move at all for a while since it doesnt run. i think for it just sitting there it should be fine to notch about 4" out.

[Puropedo]

I would recommend finding some 8" round pipe with @ least 1/4" wall, cut about 4" out of it, then cut the piece in half and use the pieces for your notches, that would give you at least 3.5" of clearance and would be a good, easy and inexpensive way of making your rear notch. I have done this several times in the past, and it works out pretty good.

[Puropedo]

Almost forgot...you wont be needing the top sq tubing reinforcement if you go that way..

[mindhive]

Exactly what I did. Went to a local weld shop and picked up 1 foot of pipe for like 5 bones. Cut that bad boy in half traced the profile onto the side of the frame, cut it out and welded in the pipe. I would bet my left teste it is strong as stock.

[N2TRUX]

Here's a good visual of what they are suggesting.

[kev2809]

probably thr route im goin...I need some 8.5" cups for my lca anyways...I wish they made square pipe that big...

[Puropedo]

Originally Posted by kev2809

probably thr route im goin...I need some 8.5" cups for my lca anyways...I wish they made square pipe that big...

Hey Kev, they actually make sq tubing that big, just look around you might get lucky!

[Puropedo]

N2TRUX....Good example pics!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

N2TRUX....Good example pics!

Thanks. That's the C-notch that Roger built on my 77 in the beginning. Now I am running the Ride Tech bolt in.

[47owner]

Happy New year.
I have a 1947 Chevy 3600. The notch looks like a pipe that was cut to fit, if so, what diameter pipe did you use?

[kev2809]

my old thread!

that looks like it sits about 4 inches in there, so im guessing an 8" pipe?

[LONGHAIR]

Zombie post.....11 years! I don't think I have ever seen one that old?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 47owner

Happy New year.
I have a 1947 Chevy 3600. The notch looks like a pipe that was cut to fit, if so, what diameter pipe did you use?

It would depend on the depth of the notch desired & amount of fab work planned. Starting point would typically be a 6" ID tube for a 3" 'C'.

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Zombie post.....11 years! I don't think I have ever seen one that old?

Usually means someone actually used the search function. Not a bad thing...

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

It would depend on the depth of the notch desired & amount of fab work planned. Starting point would typically be a 6" ID tube for a 3" 'C'.



Usually means someone actually used the search function. Not a bad thing...

yup and even more rare someone from 10 years ago is still here! i remember you helping me many of times when i was a total noob with this truck. i go back to my old posts from then and cant believe the dumb questions i asked and lazyness from asking so.many questions instead of just searching.

but anyways..to the PO, try and figure how much of the frame you need cleared. i went with a HUGE step notch and totally regret it

[47owner]

I just want to lower my truck the diameter of the axle, 3 inches. I'm putting the axle over the leafs when I change out the rear end. I plan to box in the frame around the notch to strengthen it. I also saw one of those lowering kits, the design might be a little stronger then a round pipe. I plan to fab it. Thanks for the information.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kev2809

yup and even more rare someone from 10 years ago is still here! i remember you helping me many of times when i was a total noob with this truck. i go back to my old posts from then and cant believe the dumb questions i asked and lazyness from asking so.many questions instead of just searching.

but anyways..to the PO, try and figure how much of the frame you need cleared. i went with a HUGE step notch and totally regret it

This is solid advice. The caveat being the amount of notch 'needed' to achieve the ride height (stance) vs. how much frame is left. Try to maintain the height of the area being altered for 100% of the original rails strength.

A step notch might be needed if cutting away half of the frames height. It then might become the need to trim a 'universal' step-notch for minimal body interference but increased strength.