Clutch Bracket

[BusinessProfessor]

Does any one have any experience with a clutch bracket that is keeping my pedal from fully releasing? It seems that the bracket left side is flexing and hindering the pedal from coming to a full release. I have to pull up on the pedal with my foot every time I shift. Purchased the pivot parts and bushings to replace, but my mechanic says that will not solve the problem. The piece of the bracket that flexes is just above where the pedal rod is bolted to the rest of the under dash linkages. Any suggestions would be appreciated since I have been only able to drive the truck three times.

[Wild83C10]

What part are you talking about. See image below maybe that might help.

[longbedrick]

my Jeep clutch used to get stuck to the floor or partially release. It turned out that my pedal was getting stuck between two of the exhaust tubes on the headers that I had recently installed. The pedal would get pinched

[68 TT]

It sounds to me like the return spring under the truck is broken and you are only getting the return action of the pressure plate spring.

Easy to check.

The clutch linkage is all pretty heavy duty. If something in there is flexing it is broken or cracked.

[BusinessProfessor]

Thanks Guys,

Wild, PMd you. Everything in the pic I have already purchased from LMC.
68TT,the spring is in place. It seems that the bracket metal is fatigued. The truck is a dump truck and was used as such. The only reason why I took it was because the engine is a crate 350 with approx. 500 miles on it.

[BusinessProfessor]

68TT,
You got me thinking!!! Went back and really crawled under the dash with a mini flashlight in my mouth. I discovered that the spring you mentioned, is indeed there, but; upon careful investigation it was not hooked up correctly and seems to be hung up where it is not supposed to be. I took it out and lo and behold part of it was broken. Will put in a new spring tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by BusinessProfessor

68TT,
You got me thinking!!! Went back and really crawled under the dash with a mini flashlight in my mouth. I discovered that the spring you mentioned, is indeed there, but; upon careful investigation it was not hooked up correctly and seems to be hung up where it is not supposed to be. I took it out and lo and behold part of it was broken. Will put in a new spring tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.

Glad I could help. Hopefully that is all that is wrong. Good luck.

[Reinovator]

I've been fighting with a similar Problem after reinstalling my engine in my 1980 One ton dually. Are all of the clutch pedal systems of this model the same? Mine has a spring going from aproximatly where the spring is on the illustration going directly up ward.

This was a conversion from auto to manual the gentleman I bought this truck got stuck on a beach and decided to change it. He is a good mechanic but I'm not sure he got every thing at the right points and distances.

One area I'm concerned with is the distance between the bell housing pivot and the frame pivot bracket( are all frames drilled for the frame bracket) I'm not able to put the retanier and seal on the bell housing side and the adjusting rod is on about a 15% angle in reference to the lower pivot arm.
According to all the parts lists I've been able to find this is the only set up there is.
Was there a heavy duty set up?


One other thing that makes me question this thing is where the fuel line was ran. It was on the outer upper edge of the right frame rail, looks factory, but the line is huge I had to stretch 3/8 line to fit. Could this thing had been a diesel conversion on top of everything else?
This truck use to belong to Utility company in southern AZ, and had a cherry picker in it at one time, example 14 leaves plus 8 over load springs on the rear, almost 11" of springs.
Yes it does ride like a 1/2 track but, boy can it Haul!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Reinovator

I've been fighting with a similar Problem after reinstalling my engine in my 1980 One ton dually. Are all of the clutch pedal systems of this model the same? Mine has a spring going from aproximatly where the spring is on the illustration going directly up ward.

This was a conversion from auto to manual the gentleman I bought this truck got stuck on a beach and decided to change it. He is a good mechanic but I'm not sure he got every thing at the right points and distances.

One area I'm concerned with is the distance between the bell housing pivot and the frame pivot bracket( are all frames drilled for the frame bracket) I'm not able to put the retanier and seal on the bell housing side and the adjusting rod is on about a 15% angle in reference to the lower pivot arm.
According to all the parts lists I've been able to find this is the only set up there is.
Was there a heavy duty set up?


One other thing that makes me question this thing is where the fuel line was ran. It was on the outer upper edge of the right frame rail, looks factory, but the line is huge I had to stretch 3/8 line to fit. Could this thing had been a diesel conversion on top of everything else?
This truck use to belong to Utility company in southern AZ, and had a cherry picker in it at one time, example 14 leaves plus 8 over load springs on the rear, almost 11" of springs.
Yes it does ride like a 1/2 track but, boy can it Haul!

That is a boat load of springs.

Can you post some pics of what you have? We can compare it to a stock manual trans setup to see what is different.

[Reinovator]

Thanks for the response Here's some shots, If there not enough I'll try again and a couple of over all spring shot.

Pedal springs I added the smaller spring



This is over all shot of the lower pivot arm



Outer pivot



Inner pivot



outer pivot from the wheel well outer frame



Here is a comparison of fuel lines the conected line is the the line i had to replace as in my other post



This is not your average stack of springs.



Over all shot of my work truck



Thanks in advance

[Reinovator]

Well I got it. Remember I said It never felt right? Well after checking every Diagram I could find I removed all the linkage from the Pedal to the clutch fork.

I then took a good look at the angles of every thing and notice that the side of the lower pivot arm which was installed on the bell housing bell-crank had no spring retainer groove? No wounder I couldn't get the retainer in.

This got me thinking so I looked closer at the diagrams. Like OMG !!!( Sorry use to date a Valley girl) The darn pivot arm was back wards so I reversed it and re installed it, with the spring retainer on the correct side. if you look closely at the arm in my previous post or at a diagram there is a bend in the side that goes to the clutch fork, this makes every thing line up perfectly at this point.

Now for the other side of the pivot, It was! too far out on the frame I couldn't get a drill in there so I redrilled the bracket and re installed it off about 1/8th of an inch forward. I can live with this.

Crap now the rod from the pedal won't go through the hole in the floor. Every things over 3 inches to the right. now I have to make a new hole, what do I cover this with.
While I was getting out my air saws all I looked over at my bench and saw a conduit roof seal it's 4 inches in diameter and looks like a gray shifter boot.

Yep, it worked. now for the test. To make along story shorter my wife drives a 89 SHO 5 speed and my clutch in my one ton is easier.

I guess the saying from Galaxy Quest is right
' Never Give Up Never Surrender'
Thanks for all the feed back and thanks for reading

Some times brain dead Reinovator