Front suspension for my 64

[G-REX]

I just got a 1988 Chevy truck ,minus some body parts,for free.Can I use any of the front suspension on my 64 step? I plan on keeping the engine,trans,seat,rad,booster setup,and rearend.I know there are certain years that I can use for parts,but wasn't sure on exact years.Thanks

[Tx Firefighter]

Sorry, 88 is the first year for the new body style. You can't use the suspension to swap into your truck like an 87 model or earlier will.

[jhnpldng]

I think it's the 71-72 that are the real easy swaps. You could just put the 64 cab and bed on the 88 frame. You'd have the complete driveability of an 88. Fuel tank(s) wouldn't fit due to floors though. Cab mounts would have to be reworked and radiator's too wide to fit between the inner 64 fenders without cutting no matter which way you go.

To get power disc brakes you'll need the steering knuckles at least to have somewhere to bolt calipers. May be able to separate at ball joints or at A-frames. Worst case is whole front crossmember but I don't know if any of it is going to be a bolt in. For radiator you'd be better of getting an aftermarket made for 65-66 with 283/327. #284 or CU284.
Seat will need custom brackets made.
Rearend is pretty much bolt in.
Don't forget to snag the anti-sway bar including the crossmember for it. Then there's power steering gear also.

Bodyswap= rework six cab mounts, steering column lengthen/shorten, mount gas pedal, gas tank (could use original 64 for carbed-add elec fuel pump for tbi), shift linkage, ,powersteering lines, under hood brake lines and 65-66 V8 radiator. The benefit would be any time you need parts (except rad) it would be for an 88 so easier to find and cheaper.

[G-REX]

I have a 500 caddy to put in my 64,so the engine and trans from 88 can be stuck away for another project.Maybe do some swapping for 71-72 parts with 88 parts.Thanks for help and info

[Tx Firefighter]

Don't get too wrapped up in finding 71-72 parts. 73-87 parts will interchange and are much more readily available.

[Captainfab]

Plus the '71-'72 lower ball joints are more $$ if I'm not mistaken. I prefer the '73-'87 suspension myself. Often times you can get a complete or at least a rolling chassis for pretty reasonable. There is a thread here somewhere that has the lowdown on the front disc conversion. I'll see if I can find it.

I would not recommend trying to put your '64 body on the '88 frame.....way too many differences.

Here's the thread
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=367260

[G-REX]

Thanks, alot of useful and interesting info is always here ,G-REX

[70 Suburban]

you can use the parts but its not as simple... this falls into the using the 3/4 ton lower arms..but if it has the advantave of changing the roters out for the 6 lug 3/4 ton so you can have disk and have 6 lug... I have a write up if you want it.. pm me

[62gmc910]

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

you can use the parts but its not as simple... this falls into the using the 3/4 ton lower arms..but if it has the advantave of changing the roters out for the 6 lug 3/4 ton so you can have disk and have 6 lug... I have a write up if you want it.. pm me

I think that a lot of us would be interested in keeping 6 bolt discs using truck parts so if you wouldn't mind posting I for one would appreciate it
Thanks

[70 Suburban]

Ill try...but ill have to post pics later
I wanted to take a few minutes to explain how I did my disk brake swap. Here I will have pics and a play by play so you can fallow along and maybe do this yourself.
The same technique could be used to update your suspension or to do a 5 lug swap using aftermarket or stock parts.
I chose this only because I like the old school look of the six lug and I want the safety of disk in my daily driver.
Now on with what you are all waiting for.

First off Jack up the truck. Use jack stands just under the cab on the frame. This way the stands are out of the way and you are safe. Plus you will need the jack later.
Next remove your wheels and, set to the side. This is a great opportunity to power wash or just scrape and clean the truck. We all know we don’t spend enough time here.

After you get the wheel off and clean up here you will see a few castle nuts with cotter keys. You will need to start to remove the keys first.
Start with the tie rod end. Take off the key then the nut make sure the threads are clean, Then but the nut part way back on. You then will strike with a BFH the steering knuckle. It may take a few good hits but you will see it pop up slightly.

Now go to the other side and remove the shock. This is also a great time to upgrade them.

Its time to use that jack. Place the jack under the control arm just under the spring from the front of the truck. Don’t pick it up leave it down about an inch.

Remove the lower key then the nut. Clean the threads then thread the nut back on a few threads maybe about half way. Don’t tighten it all the way down. Turn the knuckle all the way to the side so you can see the back of it. Use your BFH to strike the knuckle where the ball joint comes through. Don’t hit the nut. You will see the ball joint drop to the nut. Now raise the jack to the arm. Remove the nut. Lower the jack slow. You should be clear of the spring and anything else that could come lose.

Remove the brake lines you wont be needing them. The new lines come in from the front.
Now you can remove the last key and nut. Again remove the nut clean the threads on the ball joint and reinstall the nut about half way. Use the BFH to strike the knuckle. It should fall out of the way but stand clear so it doesn’t take a toe from you.

Now for the power tools. Grind away the four rivet heads on the upper ball joint. I used an air hammer to get under the ball joint and push it off.

This is a good time to drill your holes for the brake hose.
The new ball joint install is cut and dry. Insert ball joint. Bolt in ball joint.

The lower arm is attached by two u-bolts. Remove them and the lower arms will fall out of the way.

I used 87 Chevy ¾ ton truck lower arms because the lower ball joints will press in and they use rubber bushings.


I cleaned the arms, pressed out the old ball joints, painted, Then pressed in the new ball joints from the 2000 Chevy van.
Now install the new arms the same way you to ok out the old ones with the u-bolts.

Use the jack again under the spring perch. Raise it slightly. Set the coil spring in place make sure that the lower coil is in the correct position. Raise it up a bit more to seat it in the top.
Now install the new steering knuckle onto the lower ball joint.

Set the upper ball joint into the knuckle. Tighten up the nuts. Install your new cotter keys, and lower the jack.



Now you can reinstall your shocks.


b

Now ill go over what I had to do for the brake lines. I used 5/16 brake line from the auto parts. I also have a double flair tool. They sell the ends so you can cut to fit as needed. Install your calipers and, run your brake line to where you like. I ran mine on the front cross member. I drilled the front line mount just under the upper arm, and kept the flex line close to the cross member.
For the brake lines I took apart the original lines from the master cyl to the prop valve to use the fittings. I wanted to relocate the valve lower and closer to the frame. I used the stock rear lines and just capped off the tees. I bent a new 3/16 line for the front added a tee and went to the prop valve. The disk lines go to the front unlike the front drum that go to the rear of the crossmember.

At a later time I will be redoing the lines and moving the rear line to the driver side. But for now with my budget this is what I had to do.


My truck came with power brakes. I used the master cylinder From a 71 Chevy.
Here is a parts list of what I used.
• 2000 Chevy full size van steering knuckle
• 2000 Chevy van rotor
• 2000 Chevy van calipers
• 2000 Chevy van upper ball joints in stock 66 arms
• 2000 Chevy van lower ball joints in stock 87 ¾ ton lower arms
• 2000 Chevy van tie rod ends
• 1987 Center link/drag link
• 2000 Chevy van brake lines
• 3/16 brake line for front
• ¼ brake line for rear
• 1971 Chevy master cylinder and proportioning valve
• Stock 66 Chevy power booster
Note: stock wheels will not clear calipers.
I also cut one coil when I took them out this will not lower your truck

[70 Suburban]

Ill have to tranfer all the pics over from word7.. unless someone has the time i can send the file to them and they can post the whole write up

[Captainfab]

I believe this was posted before wasn't it? You could just post a link to the thread, or just copy and paste the pics from there to here.

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

Ill have to tranfer all the pics over from word7.. unless someone has the time i can send the file to them and they can post the whole write up

[70 Suburban]

they guy that i sent it to(i dont have word at work) didnt post any pics from my write up. If I can make the time I will start a thread and add the pics

[Captainfab]

Hummm.....I thought those pics got posted. If you want to send them to me I'll see what I can do to get them posted.

[70 Suburban]

sure whats your email...

[Captainfab]

I sent you a PM......

[70 Suburban]

and i u sir.

[Captainfab]

Ummm I didn't get a PM or an email yet.......

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

and i u sir.

[70 Suburban]

wow ill try again... i thought it went out...