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Old 12-08-2009, 04:57 PM   #1
Chevy1TonFun
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Boxing Frame

Just wanted some input on whether or not I should spend the time and effort to box my frame. Now that I am putting in the 600hp 486 I am concerned about the frame, especially when I start playing in the mud. What do you all think and what are the pro and cons of boxing the frame. Thanks
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:09 PM   #2
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Re: Boxing Frame

Pros would be no frame flex, put more to the ground with the right set up. Cons, would be no flex for wheeling, and the extra weight.
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:38 PM   #3
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Re: Boxing Frame

I've heard people say that frame flex is a good thing -- this makes no sense to me. Sure, you'll get a bit more articulation off-road, but I'd much rather have a rigid chassis and let the suspension do the flexing. Need more flex? Modify the bouncy bits. If I had 600 hp, I'd look into boxing the frame.

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Old 12-08-2009, 09:39 PM   #4
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Re: Boxing Frame

Anything with any type of roll cage has a stiff frame and the suspension does all the flexing ie off road trucks , monster truck, buggy.
Box the frame and let the suspension do all the work.
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:09 PM   #5
Chevy1TonFun
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Re: Boxing Frame

Anybody have pics of boxed frames?
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:07 AM   #6
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Re: Boxing Frame

No pics but here is a thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262271
www.DIY4x.com is working on a kit.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:29 AM   #7
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Re: Boxing Frame

I bent my frame on my K5 racer. Right where the front spring, shackle hanger is. Its a week spot. Took it to a buddy and he put it on the rack and fixed it. It's boxed in that area now, but I would like to box the whole thing.
Chevy army trucks have a reinforcement plate bolted in, in this area.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:58 PM   #8
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Re: Boxing Frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by duallyjams View Post
No pics but here is a thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262271
www.DIY4x.com is working on a kit.
I talked with Kurt today, and he said he has a frame box kit for 73-80 short bed. No 67-72. So it looks like I going to start gathering cardboard and start a tracin'. Maybe I'll sell the drawings to Kurt, lol.
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:45 PM   #9
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Re: Boxing Frame

Just my opinion..........


I'm pushing 700 HP on a stock non-boxed frame, with a huge load behind me!!!

Now, granted there is not alot of articulation involved, but frame flex is always necessary!

If something is gonna give, let the frame flex so that "other part" doesn't take the excess stress and break.

Also, if you are mudding, than your wheel spin will never let your frame flex anyway. Rock crawling is a different story....The rock won't give and the torque will be applied to your drivetrain/frame.


A........
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:04 PM   #10
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Re: Boxing Frame

Save your time boxing the frame and put a roll bar in. It will stiffen your frame as much as you want by your design, plus it adds safety.
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Old 12-11-2009, 09:55 AM   #11
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Re: Boxing Frame

I didn't box my frame but I did add \ / crossmember bracing to the front of the frame & the engine crossmember/engine mount setup is Uber tight & strong. I'm not at 600Hp but my 454 is around 400Hp & 550Tq. I have hammered down many a time climbing sand dunes and "drag racing" full throttle and shifting my SM465 as fast as I can hehehe Zero issues with my frame so far.
I love the flex off road/trail riding. My buddy "truggied" his 72k5 so he has allot of tubing tied to the frame. He has made it clear he liked the frame flex he use to have before he tied all that tube to his frame.
Anyway Happy Friday
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:10 PM   #12
Chevy1TonFun
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Re: Boxing Frame

There is a lot of frame flex when I go mud bogging. I am really torn on what to do. There are a lot of great points on why and why not. Keep the advise come and thanks for all the input guys!
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:23 PM   #13
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Re: Boxing Frame

My '85 K5 is used on mud and rocks, and I have WAY too much frame flex. This winter I am tearing it down because all of the flex has ruined the body. I intend in tying a full cage into the frame to reduce/eliminate the flex. I always liked the extra flex that I got from my frame, and I do think that it has kept me from breaking other driveline items in the past, but it has gotten to be too much.
Could you box the front half to compensate for the extra horses, and leave the back open?
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:09 PM   #14
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Re: Boxing Frame

I boxed mine back to the first crossmember on both sides. On the steering side, I had about 5 cracks running in all directions from the gearbox bolt holes. The frame was actually completely broke in one place except for the top horizontal piece. I would at least box/reinforce that area.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:19 PM   #15
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Re: Boxing Frame

I think everyone is missing the point, He has 15" of lift, There will be no suspension flex

I would just box/brace the Known weak spots Steering box. engine crossmember, and around the front spring shackle mounts and call it a day.

If you box the whole thing, I think you are not gonna be happy at all with almost zero flex its gonna ride like a tank.
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:08 PM   #16
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Re: Boxing Frame

I agree with bigbadchev72. A super rigid frame isn't what you want on a trail with a long rig. It'll work with a jeep with 20" of suspension travel. But I doubt it would be ideal for this truck.
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:04 PM   #17
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Re: Boxing Frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbadchev72 View Post
I think everyone is missing the point, He has 15" of lift, There will be no suspension flex

If you box the whole thing, I think you are not gonna be happy at all with almost zero flex its gonna ride like a tank.
Wait a second... besides the obvious (running large tires), isn't the whole point of a lift increased articulation (flex, travel...) to keep the tires in contact with the ground over very rugged terrain? Seems like if the springs are done right, there will be plenty of suspension compliance. Of course, if they aren't much more than massive spring packs from a dump truck, it's gonna beat you up whether the frame bends or not.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:17 PM   #18
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Re: Boxing Frame

Thats kinda a loaded question, Bigger lift and tires is usually to increase ground clearance, and is good for mud so that you arent plowing the body into the mud.

Rock crawling where you really need the articulation you see huge tires with very little lift, most of the time it is around the 2-4" range to keep the center of gravity close to the ground. They will sawsall fenders to make room for the bigger tires.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:18 PM   #19
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Re: Boxing Frame

Leaf springs don't tend to articulate too much from everything I've seen.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:31 PM   #20
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Re: Boxing Frame

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Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher View Post
Leaf springs don't tend to articulate too much from everything I've seen.
It gets worse the more arch in the springs, I have 8" springs on mine and it has maybe a foot of flex.........Tops, the rest is body and frame.
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:14 AM   #21
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Re: Boxing Frame

Leafs can perform decently in the right application ,and as stated earlier the more arch in the spring the less flex and rougher the ride. My project is no rock crawler by any means but Im very interested in decent flex and low center of gravity. The trucks running a 52/64 leaf combo are pretty impressive, and its only about 4" of lift using mostly stock parts. Mine is in the making as we speak.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:59 PM   #22
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Re: Boxing Frame

All I know is if you fully box the frame hard like in a wheeling situation, if it twists, it will either stay there, be tweaked, or you will have some twisted crossmembers to deal with. You might be able to sleeve the front area by the shackles to under the cab to help make it stronger but allow some flex in the chassis still.
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Last edited by Dieselwrencher; 12-17-2009 at 03:59 PM.
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