Horn Cap Retainer - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

KiDD3 · 12-13-2009, 10:46 PM

Can someone explain how the horn cap retainer goes together correctly? I've tried assembly according to #6 in the attached image, but the screws go right through the cup and don't hold anything together. Pics would be nice if anyone has them.

Thanks!

nickp51chevy · 12-13-2009, 11:04 PM

Good question. I just took mine apart to recondition the turn signal contacts, and it didn't want to go back together very easily or work any more.

unclewatts · 12-13-2009, 11:28 PM

The screws go through the cup and thread into the tapped holes in the steering wheel hub. You must use the white plastic shoulder washers that are tied together to electrically isolate the disk from ground. Then the button just clips to the inside of the cup. Older models (67-69) have a rubber ring that retains the horn button.

KiDD3 · 12-14-2009, 06:53 AM

I've tried assembly according to the diagram above but it doesn't stay together. The holes in the cup are just a little bigger than the screws so the cup will slip right off. The only parts that stay screwed to the wheel are the thin disk and the rubber washer thingy.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 12-14-2009, 09:09 AM

The "rubber washer thingy" goes on top of the horn diaphram. The horn diaphram is insulated by clearance.

Jim

**LockDoc** · 12-14-2009, 12:36 PM

-
That is because the diagram is wrong. The white plastic piece (#8) goes inside the cup and the bosses (the parts that the screws go through) on it go down through the holes in the cup and plate. The domed side of the plate goes up and after you get the screws started wiggle the whole assembly around a little while gently pressing down on it to make sure the bosses go through the plate. If the boss's tighten up against the plate the horn won't work.

If you have trouble understanding this let me know and i will take some pics.

LockDoc

Wrenchbender Ret · 12-14-2009, 05:18 PM

The photo is wrong. #8 goes in #7. If the 3 bush. are broke loose from each other it will still work. The dished flat spring goes on first convex side down. Clean the center of it real good . It contacts the center of the steering wheel when the horn is depressed. The brush contacts the flat disc. Then the cup goes on & then the plastic web. & then the screws. Like previosly said make sure the plastic parts are centered in the holes. After the screws are snuged down the cup should go down a little under pressure & spring back.

dfwright · 12-14-2009, 05:26 PM

Here is a picture I took when I disassembled mine, so I could remember how to put it back

LOW DOUGH · 12-14-2009, 05:27 PM

yeah, I was swaping columns resently and tryed to put it back the way the pic was. That's not how I took it apart. Well, it didn't work. I still haven't gone back out there to make it right again. Well I did but the hore wouldn't work. the little pin was to short if i remember corectly. I went from a non-tilt to a tilt.

Say, LockDoc... you got some pics. It would be good to see anyway.

There were pics up after I wrote this.

LOW DOUGH · 12-14-2009, 05:28 PM

wow! That wheel has seen better days

dfwright · 12-14-2009, 05:30 PM

I was told that would buff out...

LOW DOUGH · 12-14-2009, 05:37 PM

it should

toddtheodd · 12-14-2009, 06:39 PM

subscribed to this thread

KiDD3 · 12-14-2009, 08:57 PM

Well hmmm, it actually works when you get it together correctly. Only thing I see is that I can't tighten the screws or there is no movement of the horn button. I left then a little loose and it seems to work fine. At least if nothing else it looks better that seeing a steering wheel with no cap...

**LockDoc** · 12-14-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KiDD3

Well hmmm, it actually works when you get it together correctly. Only thing I see is that I can't tighten the screws or there is no movement of the horn button. I left then a little loose and it seems to work fine. At least if nothing else it looks better that seeing a steering wheel with no cap...

That means that the bosses on the plastic retainer are not going through the thin plate, they are on top of it. See if you can take a small screwdriver and move the plate around until it seems to be a little loose then tighten the screws.

LockDoc

12-13-2009, 10:46 PM	#1
KiDD3 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Indiana Posts: 40	Horn Cap Retainer Can someone explain how the horn cap retainer goes together correctly? I've tried assembly according to #6 in the attached image, but the screws go right through the cup and don't hold anything together. Pics would be nice if anyone has them. Thanks! Attached Images __________________ *Pardon my questions...I'm a noob on a mission.*

12-13-2009, 11:04 PM	#2
nickp51chevy Registered Chevy Owner Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Snohomish, wa Posts: 1,557	Re: Horn Cap Retainer Good question. I just took mine apart to recondition the turn signal contacts, and it didn't want to go back together very easily or work any more. __________________ Love is fleeting, but Chevy trucks are forever!!!! 1970 Chevy CST C10 long box 350/400 2008 Chevy Silverado short box 4x4 Had; 1951 Chevy short box 307/T5 1988 Chevy shot box 4x4 350/350 1971 Chevy C10 long box 4x4 350/350 1971 Chevy C20 long box 350/350 1971 Chevy C10 long box 350/350

12-13-2009, 11:28 PM	#3
unclewatts 70 Chevrolet=Obsession Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: nice ca Posts: 1,067	Re: Horn Cap Retainer The screws go through the cup and thread into the tapped holes in the steering wheel hub. You must use the white plastic shoulder washers that are tied together to electrically isolate the disk from ground. Then the button just clips to the inside of the cup. Older models (67-69) have a rubber ring that retains the horn button. __________________ I'm Just like my truck. Old, Ugly and Grouchy. Except my truck starts easily in the morning and doesn't smoke! IT'S NOT EASY BEING GREEN! -Kermit the frog 1970 Chevrolet C-10 Longbed Stepside : 350, Muncie M20, 3.08 GM corp. positraction Forest green exterior/light green interior(Where all my money goes) 1996 Toyota Corolla (Parts runner)

12-14-2009, 06:53 AM	#4
KiDD3 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Indiana Posts: 40	Re: Horn Cap Retainer I've tried assembly according to the diagram above but it doesn't stay together. The holes in the cup are just a little bigger than the screws so the cup will slip right off. The only parts that stay screwed to the wheel are the thin disk and the rubber washer thingy. __________________ *Pardon my questions...I'm a noob on a mission.*

12-14-2009, 09:09 AM	#5
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Re: Horn Cap Retainer The "rubber washer thingy" goes on top of the horn diaphram. The horn diaphram is insulated by clearance. Jim __________________ 1971 Shortbox step side 4x4, 350 sbc, 3:07 rear end 1965 Impala SS 400 sbc, Muncie rock crusher 1966 Impala SS 396 bbc, TH 400 1969 El Camino, 350 sbc, TH 350 1971 Snowplow built on a Blazer frame 1972 GMC Short bed, stepside, TH 400, 427 BBC

12-14-2009, 12:36 PM	#6
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,432	Re: Horn Cap Retainer - That is because the diagram is wrong. The white plastic piece (#8) goes inside the cup and the bosses (the parts that the screws go through) on it go down through the holes in the cup and plate. The domed side of the plate goes up and after you get the screws started wiggle the whole assembly around a little while gently pressing down on it to make sure the bosses go through the plate. If the boss's tighten up against the plate the horn won't work. If you have trouble understanding this let me know and i will take some pics. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - Last edited by LockDoc; 12-14-2009 at 12:39 PM.

12-14-2009, 05:18 PM	#7
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,208	Re: Horn Cap Retainer The photo is wrong. #8 goes in #7. If the 3 bush. are broke loose from each other it will still work. The dished flat spring goes on first convex side down. Clean the center of it real good . It contacts the center of the steering wheel when the horn is depressed. The brush contacts the flat disc. Then the cup goes on & then the plastic web. & then the screws. Like previosly said make sure the plastic parts are centered in the holes. After the screws are snuged down the cup should go down a little under pressure & spring back.

12-14-2009, 05:26 PM	#8
dfwright Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 1,374	Re: Horn Cap Retainer Here is a picture I took when I disassembled mine, so I could remember how to put it back Attached Images __________________ 1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017

12-14-2009, 05:27 PM	#9
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: Horn Cap Retainer yeah, I was swaping columns resently and tryed to put it back the way the pic was. That's not how I took it apart. Well, it didn't work. I still haven't gone back out there to make it right again. Well I did but the hore wouldn't work. the little pin was to short if i remember corectly. I went from a non-tilt to a tilt. Say, LockDoc... you got some pics. It would be good to see anyway. There were pics up after I wrote this. Last edited by LOW DOUGH; 12-14-2009 at 05:29 PM.

12-14-2009, 05:28 PM	#10
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: Horn Cap Retainer wow! That wheel has seen better days

12-14-2009, 05:30 PM	#11
dfwright Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 1,374	Re: Horn Cap Retainer I was told that would buff out... __________________ 1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017

12-14-2009, 05:37 PM	#12
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: Horn Cap Retainer it should

12-14-2009, 06:39 PM	#13
toddtheodd The oddest Todd around Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,418	Re: Horn Cap Retainer subscribed to this thread __________________ "The greatest pleasure is to vanquish your enemies and chase them before you, to rob them of their wealth and see those dear to them bathed in tears, to ride their horses and clasp to your bosom their wives and daughters." Ghengis Khan IIOY???

12-14-2009, 08:57 PM	#14
KiDD3 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Indiana Posts: 40	Re: Horn Cap Retainer Well hmmm, it actually works when you get it together correctly. Only thing I see is that I can't tighten the screws or there is no movement of the horn button. I left then a little loose and it seems to work fine. At least if nothing else it looks better that seeing a steering wheel with no cap... __________________ *Pardon my questions...I'm a noob on a mission.*



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