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12-15-2009, 11:20 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: richmond ky.
Posts: 36
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4x4 brake problem
I have a 1973 Chevrolet 1/2 ton 4x4 with 44 inch tall tires. It has a new master cylender, and power brakes. The truck has front disc and rear drums. I have put a new brake valve and a new front disk calaper. The truck won't stop like it should. If you push the brakes to the floor the back will lock up but the front don't seem to help the truck stop any. I have tryed the truck on stock 35 inch tires and the truck still doesn't stop good. Does any one know what the problem void be. I have already changed out A few lines, flushed the system with new fluid, and have bled the system several times
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12-15-2009, 09:21 PM
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#2 |
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more ideas than money
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: spring grove, pa
Posts: 1,068
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Re: 4x4 brake problem
What are the condition of your rotors and pads? Sometimes over the years the pads become too hard and do not provide enough friction against the disk.
I would also make sure that you have the right proportioning valve for he disc/drum brakes. With 44's and what I am assuming is 1/2 ton brakes you are not going to be able to stop too well anyway, but I am sure that you know this. You might be better off doing an axle swap to a set of one tons so you can get sronger axles and bigger brakes.
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 Randy1948 Chevy 3100 5 window 1966 Chevy C30 Dually 1967 Chevy K10 1972 Chevy K20 1972 Chevy C10 1972 Chevy K5 Blazer 1987 Chevy V10 2003 Chevy Suburban |
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12-16-2009, 10:38 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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Re: 4x4 brake problem
I redid my brake pads one time and the guy in the parts store talked me into get the metalic pads. I tried them and my truck wouldn't stop for crap with them. I went back to the old cheap ones and everything was just fine. Not sure why but it did make a big difference.
Last edited by Mudder; 12-16-2009 at 10:39 AM. |
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12-16-2009, 11:55 AM
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#4 | |
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Chevys Kick A$$
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Zootown, MT
Posts: 12,699
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Re: 4x4 brake problem
Quote:
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*HOODS is what I answer too* -'79, '77, '88 Pickup Sold, '85 Camaro, '83 T/A, '81,'83,'90 K5 Blazer All Sold  -'79 3/4 ton "Big Yellow Bananna" Lifted 4spd. 39.5 TSL Swampers, The money Pit   -'86 K5 Blazer Silverado 6.2 4" lift 35"s -'95 Ext. Cab Shorty 4" Tuff Country rolling 35" M/T's -'83 Monte Carlo T-Tops. 126,500 Original Miles -LATER  I would rather push a Chevy then drive a ford!!
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12-16-2009, 04:36 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: S.C.
Posts: 1,593
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Re: 4x4 brake problem
Are both front calipers actually working? (you said you changed one, what about the other?) Is it the correct prop valve?
If you can push the brakes "to the floor" and the rears work, sounds like you may still have air in the lines. (assuming the MC and brake booster are "good". New doesn't always equal good)
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'86 C-30 dually, 454/tbh400 '73 K-20 350/350/205 (sold  )I'm kinda like duct tape- no real purpose, but handy to have around. |
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12-16-2009, 06:43 PM
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#6 |
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6>8 Plugless........
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,140
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Re: 4x4 brake problem
Check the front flexible rubber brake lines and make sure they are not clogged or swelled, rusted, shut, causing no fluid flow to the calipers.
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Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project Tired of spark plugs? Check this out. Last edited by Dieselwrencher; 12-16-2009 at 06:43 PM. |
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12-16-2009, 08:30 PM
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#7 | |
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just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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Re: 4x4 brake problem
You are asking waay to much from those little tiny brakes, but they should still function.
I am willing to bet that the proportioning valve is "popped" and there is not pressure going to the front at all. This is very common when changing master cylinders or after a line failure. Is the brake light on? I would remove a caliper from the rotor and push to pedal (slowly) to confirm movement before doing anything else.
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You can review the site's rules here. Quote:
Bad planning on your part does not necessarily constitute an instant emergency on my part.... The great thing about being a pessimist is that you are either pleasantly surprised or right. 
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