72 Blazer - Rotor Replacement

[tek707]

Hello everyone....I'm looking to replace my front rotors on my 72 Blazer K5. I've done this before on a none 4x4 vehicle but not sure how to go about it on a 4x4 Blazer and what tools I would need. I went as far as removing the calipers completely but then I got stuck.

Do the lockers need to be removed? Can anyone guide me in the right direction?

Thanks!

[pound41]

You will need a socket tool to remove the large threaded keeper that holds it on. Not expensive at most parts stores. Not that bad at all. Get a long board and lay the guts out as you take them out so you will know the order they go in. Got my first blazer when I was 15yrs old and had to put u joints in it. My Dad and old mechanic gave me the socket and a board and said have at it. Good Luck

[litebulblsc]

Pull the 6 bolts out of the locker, pull the cover off. Now there is a circlip that you will need some dental pics to get out. Then put 2 bolts back in the locker and pull it out. This is where you need the special socket. Take the first nut off, the washer, then the second nut. Now pull the rotor off.


That simple

[tek707]

Thank you for the steps and ideas. Do you happen to know what's the name of tool? Thanks again!

[2tons of fun]

spindle nut socket, hub nut socket.
they are big and very easy to id. you will want the smaller of the 2. .

like said above. the locking hub cap will come right off. but there are 2!! clips that you will need to remove, one on the axle shaft that you can get with regular c clip pliers and one on the outer edge that you will need to use small flat blade drivers or picks for.

pull the hub out and you will see the nuts and locking ring underneath.

pull the brake cal and the wheel hub/rotor will all come off together. pound the studs out and the rotor will seperate from the wheel hub.

you need to pay attention to how you replace the spindle nuts. one has a pin on it, that nut MUST GO IN FIRST and the pin MUST FACE YOU!!!!

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THIS NUT, this nut is solely for prelaoding the bearings, you want the spin the rotor with minor effort and it should not free roll for more than a rev or 2.

when you replace the locking washer, YOU MUST LINE THE PIN UP WITH ONE OF THE HOLES IN THE WASHER. if you dont it WILL NOT STAY TIGHT AND THE WHOLE ORDEAL CAN COME OFF AFTER A FEW MILES!!!!

once you got the pin and washer lined up then you can put the outer nut on, you want to crank this one down to 50-75ftlbs.

[Jtrux]

When you tighten the nut if i'm not mistaken, you torque it to 35ft/lbs while turning the rotor and then back the wrench off 1/8 of a turn. Hope that helps.

[2tons of fun]

the is for setting new bearings.

[Jtrux]

Even with used bearings it shouldn't be that critical. I just prefer to do it thataway because its more exact that just using a "feel".