k30 dually lift kit?

[Matt Man]

im looking for these lift kits ive looked all over the place and nadda.

[special-K]

Lift kit is a generic term to me,with more than one way to go about it.What are you looking for?One ton rated springs?Or just springs that bolt in?As long as you get the right length rear springs the 10-30 springs interchange.How much lift?What do want the truck to be able to do once it`s lifted?

[Matt Man]

Originally Posted by special-K

Lift kit is a generic term to me,with more than one way to go about it.What are you looking for?One ton rated springs?Or just springs that bolt in?As long as you get the right length rear springs the 10-30 springs interchange.How much lift?What do want the truck to be able to do once it`s lifted?

i want a 4-6 inch kit its just every kit i look at days its not for a dually? dont need anything serious.

[special-K]

Are the dually springs different in the back?

[ghettoluxury]

my front axle was once a dually and there is no differance in the springs that are on it than the ones that were on the old 1

[special-K]

Fronts are all the same,but what about dual rears vs single?I`m pretty sure they`re both the same length.

[71blksuper4x4]

to my knowledge they are the same length. You will have to get custom springs made if you plan on them to have the same tow rating though. If you just want a lifted dually, then you will be fine with any 73-87 lift as long as the spring length is the same. Trevor

[Matt Man]

oh ok. ill just get the regular springs.

[special-K]

If it was me I`d just use blocks and keep the capacity on a dually.The rear wheels are a bigger drawback than blocks would ever be.If money was no problem I`d get custom springs made.But,over arched HD springs will ride like it`s rigid,especially with no weight...which makes for some crappy off road traction.

[Mike C]

Blocks suck. Just say no. Get yourself a set of 4" heavy duty springs for the front and do a shackle flip in the rear. Then extend the overload leaf blocks so you can still use the truck. Here is a link to the ORD kit. Notice they make one just for the K30 trucks. The 69-72 trucks also have 40.5" spring centers same as the later tonner.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

[special-K]

I can appreciate other opinions,but I have one,too.If I`ve run several trucks with no ill effects from blocks I wonder why I didn`t know they suck.I guess I didn`t read that magazine.Please share your experience that backs up your claim.I agree springs are better,but it`s not like a dual wheel truck is an extreme wheeler where it would matter.I`d rather have the capacity to haul in a dual rear truck.I also don`t like lifting by reverse shackles on a hauling truck.I won`t say they suck because they have their place,just like blocks,and I`m just not into that trip.

[Mike C]

The 2 1/2" block on my Jimmy caused excessive axle windup and wheel hop. It also deformed both ends of the factory perches which had to be straightened, braced, and then welded and ground to be flat again to sit on the spring.

I got on it pretty hard one day at an intersection and it wheel hopped TWICE. "urp" the first time and "bang" the second time. The differential case split across the cross shaft causing the posi case to have to be replaced along with the 4.10 gears. Each of the 10 pinion gear teeth were cracked at the base.

ALL of these problems fixed with a 4" lift spring. Mine are National Springs. The blocks were on the truck for less than 2 years. The lift springs have now been on for 17. My truck is a manual which may have some effect and I had 35 14.5 tires which DEFINITELY had an effect. I do tow a 3500# boat so that is an issue as well.

Springs cost $250 at the time, but the posi case and 4.10 gear set were near $500.

Speaking from my experience, blocks suck, run a spring. As mentioned above, the ORD shckle reversal lets you keep the stock 1 ton springs and you can space the overloads to keep payload. I will be putting my money where my mouth is when I lift my K30 and using an HD 4" front spring combined with the ORD kit.

Changing from the factory tension shackle to a compression shackle doesn't have any major effect on load carrying. GM cars have been compression shackle (Camaro/Nova) and that is how Jeeps are as well.

[special-K]

Sounds like your u-bolts or something was loose or broken.I do springs these day,too.But,I ran blocks,along with everybody else who lifted trucks (as well as OEM) before any lift companies offered rear springs.I never knew of any problems.I had 4" blocks,13-37 Super Swampers,Locker,and 375 hp motor in a`71 Blazer.I mostly played in mud but was awful hard on it on the street.Nothing ever got hurt.You just couldn`t go out and buy rear springs and we never knew we were missing anything.I ran over the spring traction bars.I`m sure that helped the hop.I`ve run blocks on my work trucks that hauled alot of weight on and off road.I`m not arguing blocks are as good as shackle-flips (fairly new product) and lift springs,but saying blocks suck is a bit bold.Especially on a dually.I don`t see one of those as something to build for super flexy stuff.I wouldn`t run a shackle flip on a real heavy rig that will carry alot of weight.I know they take alot of abuse.But it`s a certain type of abuse.Early vehicles had spring under shackle and they went to spring over shackle for a reason.I believe for durability and stability.If I had a dual wheel truck I wanted to put big tires on I`d run blocks and traction bars to keep the carrying capacity.I wouldn`t be concerned with extreme flex or about the reduced clearance of the bars.I just think it depends on the use.

[Mike C]

Nothing else loose or broken. I did finally dump those u-bolts two years ago when I did my 8 lug axle swap and had to run the u-bolts that fit the larger diameter axle tube.

In the end it is 6 of one half dozen of the other I guess if they both work. ORD claims no loss of stability and spending time on the jeep boards sees much less talk about shackle design than the merits of springs on top of or underneath the axle housing.

MY experience with blocks is they are a stopgap at best. Running blocks cost ME a lot of extra money and time. I have a K30 as well and am contemplating lifting it. After doing a little due-dilligence, my conclusion was that the shackle flip is the best for ME. My apologies if my outright statment that blocks suck offended, but MY experience once again is they do.

Actually, this sort of back and forth brings much more information to the conversation than just "buy this" and I appreciate your counter argument and insight.

I could not agree more that the dual wheels are a wheeling liability. My truck has 235 86 16 BFG AT's that are paid for which is why it is still at stock height...

[blazinzuk]

One tons trucks use longer springs in the back than the 3/4 ton trucks. They are the same length as the later burb springs.

I have flipped the shackle on a truck that carrys heavy loads it was fine, really didn't make much difference, now the fact he was 4" inches higher and now running 36s made a big difference in how the truck towed.

As far as blocks go they create more leverage on the axle making any axle wrap issues you have worse. They work for tons of folks and are just another way to skin a cat. They do have disadvantages, but so do custom springs, mainly cost.

I have also put blocks in the back of a dually that hauls heavy loads (several actually) and most are fine, one guy hated them, everytime I would drive them I did notice the axle would "wind up" a little more.

Now my favorite way to lift a truck like this is to use softer aftermarket springs and put an airbag under the rear to make up for the reduced load capacity.

When I lift my dually it will get linked and bagged all the way around, so well thats a long ways off

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Nothing else loose or broken. I did finally dump those u-bolts two years ago when I did my 8 lug axle swap and had to run the u-bolts that fit the larger diameter axle tube.

In the end it is 6 of one half dozen of the other I guess if they both work. ORD claims no loss of stability and spending time on the jeep boards sees much less talk about shackle design than the merits of springs on top of or underneath the axle housing.

MY experience with blocks is they are a stopgap at best. Running blocks cost ME a lot of extra money and time. I have a K30 as well and am contemplating lifting it. After doing a little due-dilligence, my conclusion was that the shackle flip is the best for ME. My apologies if my outright statment that blocks suck offended, but MY experience once again is they do.

Actually, this sort of back and forth brings much more information to the conversation than just "buy this" and I appreciate your counter argument and insight.

I could not agree more that the dual wheels are a wheeling liability. My truck has 235 86 16 BFG AT's that are paid for which is why it is still at stock height...

I agree it`s all good constructive info.And,I`d hate blocks I that happened to me.I don`t care for them,personally...anymore,now that there`s choices.The last time I lifted with blocks was in the`80s.I started using a local spring shop to get exactly what I needed.Each time they`ve treated me better,too.I had them tweak my torsion bars on a`95 K3500 I had and the didn`t even charge me when it was done.I`m sure when you see "lift block" mentioned it hits a nerve.I guess it hit one of mine when I gave advise then here what I suggested "sucked".It`s like saying my advise sucked.I`m glad you can debate and stay cool.Each time I posted I worried I`m come back to a shootout,even though I was trying not to overstep my bounds and just offer my side and ask yours.Thanks.
I just don`t regard a 4wd Dooley as an off road toy,more like a piece of equipment or tool.Like any other large all wheel drive truck or tractor.They are the babies in that family to me.They sure look cool lifted with big tires.

My friend and now brother-in-law bought a`77 K/30 DRW Silverado and we put 9.00-16s on it back then.He just had a spring shop arch & add leaves.We had to have special studs and spacers made for the rear.That truck looked bay-add ass.By 1980 another friend of ours did the same to his new cab`n`chassis K/30.We found out there was a standard stud for a medium duty that worked perfect for 1/10 the cost.I think Eric spent $400 on his`77 studs.This was in`78!!

[Mike C]

$400 in '79 dollars? Ouch. I thought the $275 in ('08) for McGard flange lugs was bad enough. My dually was purchased to drag my Lincoln SA200 and big compressor around and 4wd is required for the muck. The lift would be so I too could go to 35/36" 12.50 tires for flotation.

I guess I shouldn't have started my post the way I did, but glad we have navigated the rough beginning successfully.

[Matt Man]

Originally Posted by Mike C

$400 in '79 dollars? Ouch. I thought the $275 in ('08) for McGard flange lugs was bad enough. My dually was purchased to drag my Lincoln SA200 and big compressor around and 4wd is required for the muck. The lift would be so I too could go to 35/36" 12.50 tires for flotation.

I guess I shouldn't have started my post the way I did, but glad we have navigated the rough beginning successfully.

[jerry moss]

i'm not a big fan of blocks either but as long as you don't beat on them they work fine. i still have blocks in one of my trucks and i've hauled some serious loads in it with no problems BUT in my old 69 with 35s, 4 speed and shifting at 6500 from granny to second without lifting off the skinny pedal all hell broke loose, rolled the rear diff 90 degrees, broke the pinion yoke and the driveline slipyoke and knocked holes in both exhaust pipes. picked up the pieces locked the hubs and drove home red faced with my tail tucked between my legs----and--never tried something that stupid again. that was over 20 years ago.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by blazinzuk

...................

Now my favorite way to lift a truck like this is to use softer aftermarket springs and put an airbag under the rear to make up for the reduced load capacity.

When I lift my dually it will get linked and bagged all the way around, so well thats a long ways off

This is great info for one tons.On my`95 I ran auxilary Air Lifts.It was cool because not only could I ride the height I needed to match the turned-up torsion bars and add true capacity,I could air down and the rear would drop (since I was heavy) to unload the ladder racks easier.

The one tons do have the long leafs that Suburbans have.You just need to specify leaf length,they ask.I have a`91 Suburban with the EZ-rides all around.I tow and the 6' cargo area is full of tools.I run Rancho 9000RSXs on softest setting unless I tow.Then I run the firmest setting and it kills all sway.Without the trailer and on firm...forget it.I`m stopping and setting them to soft asap.It rides like a rock.