Finally got my truck back but........ - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Razorback_Fan · 01-24-2003, 09:24 PM

I'll post some pics of the new paint tomorrow. Ok truck ran fine today went out tonight to start it and you guessed it nothing click click no lights either. The battery charger shows full charge. Any suggestions on where to start?????

SCOTI · 01-24-2003, 10:15 PM

Check cable connections for corrosion. Check your ground & make sure its bolted down tight.

Razorback_Fan · 01-24-2003, 10:38 PM

Its like it has a direct short somewhere. I mean I have no lights at all headlight,brake,tail nothing and of course it will not start or even make the infamous click sound. I replaced the starter about 6 mths ago could it be the fuseable link?????

SCOTI · 01-24-2003, 10:47 PM

Yes, if you dont have lights or anything, start tracing wires from the starter back up the harness. I just got finished last week replacing all the original fusible links on my 74 w/newer 'blade' style plug in fuses & then put new 1 guage cables on & what a difference it made when starting.

Razorback_Fan · 01-25-2003, 11:21 AM

I'll start traceing when it warms up a little. If it is the fuseable link can I eliminate it. What does a fuseable link do?

SCOTI · 01-25-2003, 11:56 AM

A fusible link shouldn't be removed. If there's a surge or short somewhere in the wiring it is designed to be the fail-safe so the rest of the wiring doesn't melt/burn up.

The F.L.'s on my 74 were down by the starter & hot exhaust. They fell apart when I touched them as I was inspecting the quality of the starter circuit wiring. Since there's alot of heat @ that location, I decided to move them further up in the wiring. This helped in 2 ways: 1) it moved them away from harmful excessive heat; 2) the blade style fuse has the same 'failsafe' ability, but can easily be replaced where they're located on the firewall (and removed for security purposes if so desired).

The ones I used, I picked up @ my local autozone. They are 10-guage wiring & I put 25-amp fuses in them. These particular ones also enclosed the fuse w/a little snap-on style lid to keep out dirt/moisture. I used solderless crimp-on connections w/heatshrink to ensure quality connections. Good luck.

Razorback_Fan · 01-25-2003, 12:54 PM

I found the other fuseable link that I bought when I put the starter on. Its a Universal Fuseable Link 14 gauge I got it a O Reilleys. It does not have a place for a fuse so I guess something inside the wire pops. Anywasy should I go and get a 10 gauge????

SCOTI · 01-25-2003, 03:08 PM

No, you should use whatever gauge wire that was originally used. Typically the smaller wire indicates less current is needed. The ones I used also came in different guage wire selections. The original style F.L.'s were encapsuled in plastic to contain the failure of the wire w/o damage to other surrounding wiring ( I don't know of a way to check them w/o putting voltage to one end & checking it @ the opposite end of the wire). That's the beauty of the newer style links, they can be inspected for failure & repaired w/a new fuse. For wiring of a smaller dia/guage, simply use a lower rated fuse ex: 14ga wire= 10amp fuse; 16-18ga=5 or 7.5amp; 10ga=25amp. Err on the side of caution, & use the smallest rated fuse needed so as to not over-tax the wiring.

Razorback_Fan · 01-25-2003, 05:51 PM

It turned out to be the fuseable link connector had backed off enough to short out. Re Spliced it and all is well. Thanks for the help.

01-24-2003, 09:24 PM	#1
Razorback_Fan Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Katy Tx Posts: 188	Finally got my truck back but........ I'll post some pics of the new paint tomorrow. Ok truck ran fine today went out tonight to start it and you guessed it nothing click click no lights either. The battery charger shows full charge. Any suggestions on where to start?????

01-24-2003, 10:15 PM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,006	Check cable connections for corrosion. Check your ground & make sure its bolted down tight. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-24-2003, 10:38 PM	#3
Razorback_Fan Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Katy Tx Posts: 188	did that already Its like it has a direct short somewhere. I mean I have no lights at all headlight,brake,tail nothing and of course it will not start or even make the infamous click sound. I replaced the starter about 6 mths ago could it be the fuseable link?????

01-24-2003, 10:47 PM	#4
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,006	Yes, if you dont have lights or anything, start tracing wires from the starter back up the harness. I just got finished last week replacing all the original fusible links on my 74 w/newer 'blade' style plug in fuses & then put new 1 guage cables on & what a difference it made when starting. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-25-2003, 11:56 AM	#6
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,006	A fusible link shouldn't be removed. If there's a surge or short somewhere in the wiring it is designed to be the fail-safe so the rest of the wiring doesn't melt/burn up. The F.L.'s on my 74 were down by the starter & hot exhaust. They fell apart when I touched them as I was inspecting the quality of the starter circuit wiring. Since there's alot of heat @ that location, I decided to move them further up in the wiring. This helped in 2 ways: 1) it moved them away from harmful excessive heat; 2) the blade style fuse has the same 'failsafe' ability, but can easily be replaced where they're located on the firewall (and removed for security purposes if so desired). The ones I used, I picked up @ my local autozone. They are 10-guage wiring & I put 25-amp fuses in them. These particular ones also enclosed the fuse w/a little snap-on style lid to keep out dirt/moisture. I used solderless crimp-on connections w/heatshrink to ensure quality connections. Good luck. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-25-2003, 11:21 AM	#5
Razorback_Fan Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Katy Tx Posts: 188	I'll start traceing when it warms up a little. If it is the fuseable link can I eliminate it. What does a fuseable link do?

01-25-2003, 12:54 PM	#7
Razorback_Fan Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Katy Tx Posts: 188	Fuseable Link I found the other fuseable link that I bought when I put the starter on. Its a Universal Fuseable Link 14 gauge I got it a O Reilleys. It does not have a place for a fuse so I guess something inside the wire pops. Anywasy should I go and get a 10 gauge????

01-25-2003, 03:08 PM	#8
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,006	No, you should use whatever gauge wire that was originally used. Typically the smaller wire indicates less current is needed. The ones I used also came in different guage wire selections. The original style F.L.'s were encapsuled in plastic to contain the failure of the wire w/o damage to other surrounding wiring ( I don't know of a way to check them w/o putting voltage to one end & checking it @ the opposite end of the wire). That's the beauty of the newer style links, they can be inspected for failure & repaired w/a new fuse. For wiring of a smaller dia/guage, simply use a lower rated fuse ex: 14ga wire= 10amp fuse; 16-18ga=5 or 7.5amp; 10ga=25amp. Err on the side of caution, & use the smallest rated fuse needed so as to not over-tax the wiring. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-25-2003, 05:51 PM	#9
Razorback_Fan Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Katy Tx Posts: 188	Got It It turned out to be the fuseable link connector had backed off enough to short out. Re Spliced it and all is well. Thanks for the help.



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