Air ride for my 66

[wutnxt]

So I am just about to start some mods to my 66 and am getting all the parts together for go time...then it's make sure the beer is cold and invite all my friends over , anyhow,here is today's question...I have a 1966 c10 pick up and a 1966 suburban and I bought a coolride kit for a pick up but then decided to bag the suburban instead. But now i notice the rear kit for a suburban is differnt then the kit for the truck anyone know why? Next up is there a resident expert bagger in the house? I have the kit and am getting ready to buy the rest of the components such as valves, tank ,and compressors. I was thinking of running 1/2 valves, control for each corner,a 5 gal tank with enough fittings to include a air outlet to fill tires or something a extra horn ( ya i know cheesey but i still want one lol )and dual compressors. So this is the part I ask for any wisdom/ direction I can get and feedback on my choices....thanks everyone

[protrash64]

Every other person in the suspension section is an 'expert' .

I dont know why your rear parts would be different for a 'burb. The components are the same unless I'm forgetting something. 2 compressors is good= faster fill and less wear and tear. There are alot of options but I used Viair 400's for almost 5cfm fill rate. Downside was 51amp draw. If you do not want to do anything wild with the set-up 150psi is sufficient for driving and all adjustments.

Again, unless you want to be thrown out of your seat, I would not use 1/2'' valves. I have 3/8's valves with 1/2'' line and when adjusting the rear it was nearly impossible to tap the switch lightly enough. I re-did my back bags with 3/8's line to mellow out the lift. The rear is very lite so the bags can easily lift the truck. 1/2'' lines worked great to the front (engine weight). The 1/2'' valves would be mellower necked down into small airline...the line is more important than the valve IMO.

I was winging it when I did mine and saw some stuff later that would have been cool to do, such as a 5th switch for pancaking.....opens all valves. I only use 4 switches.

[wutnxt]

Hey thanks I appreciate the advice...I am not cutting a C notch or anything but i do want a pancake switch for sure . I just sent a email to cooleride asking the difference in the kits

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by wutnxt

Hey thanks I appreciate the advice...I am not cutting a C notch or anything but i do want a pancake switch for sure . I just sent a email to cooleride asking the difference in the kits

Post up if you get an answer....I'd be curious to what they had to say. I pieced my kit together. Its odds and ends and Craigslist with new stuff to fill it out.

[N2TRUX]

I'm no expert but I do have some experience. Unless you really want to clown with your system, I wouldn't spend the money on 1/2" valves. If your on a budget, keep in mind, the 1/2" fittings will cost more too. You can run 3/8" valves and be plenty fast. If you want it a bit faster, run 1/2" line as suggested.

You will want no less than 6 valves, but 8 is better. It is best to completely isolate each corner to prevent air transfer and minimize body roll. I prefer the Ride Tech "Big Red" 3/8" manifold. I have had great results with no failures.


On your compressors, ViAir is hard to beat for price vs performance. They are a premium quality compressor that can be bought at a very reasonable price. Look for a 380 dual pack if you want the most bang for the buck.

Packing is always a concern on air tanks. You will need to determine what will fit best. One 5 gallon or two 3 gallon tanks will give you enough reserve to cycle your system 2-3 times depending on the bags you use.


Come visit the suspension forum for further details and tons of info to search.

[xratt]

Heres the best plan. Sell me the burb. Thats the truck I'm dying for. I just finished rebuilding a 66' C10 on bags. I agree 3/8" valves is the way to go. If I could change mine, I would. For all the reasons these other guys have already said.