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12-29-2009, 02:51 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: simpsonville,sc
Posts: 417
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brake booster question?
Is there any particular reason brake boosters on 67-72 trucks were mounted to brackets that moved them 4-5 inches away from the firewall? Is it possible to install a booster out of a newer model truck and bolt it directly to the firewall just as it was mounted in the donor truck? Thanks
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12-29-2009, 03:23 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Middleburg, North Carolina
Posts: 480
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Re: brake booster question?
the rod length has to be changed when switching to the newer model booster...s
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12-29-2009, 05:20 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: south carolina
Posts: 658
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Re: brake booster question?
Is there a faq article on this? . I would like to know how to go about doing this also.
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1972 chevy cheyenne 10,nothing special at the moment,Its a work in progress, Working on the engine, paint and body,engine, paint and body,now its the suspenion, ahh hell I'm about tired of working on it. Maybe it will be a rat rod. |
12-29-2009, 07:53 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena,Tx /Pto Pta DR
Posts: 5,415
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Re: brake booster question?
You really can do just about anything you want. The correct rod length does matter. On the 72 vans the booster was mounted direct to the firewall. You can space it away from the wall with brackets or mount it direct. Also if you did not have power originally you have to change the lever angle on the brake pedal to get the correct fulcrum.
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12-30-2009, 03:24 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern Arkansas
Posts: 1,136
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Re: brake booster question?
I just installed a dual diaphram booster from an '89 Van onto a '70. You can grind the rivets off that hold the bracket onto the original booster. Then you'll have to cut about 1/2 the threads off the late model booster. Then just mount it back to the original bracket. The bolt hole spacing is the same. The booster I used had a different master cylinder size. So the original master wouldn't bolt up. Which was fine because I was upgrading the whole setup anyway. I did however have to bend up 2 new short lines cause the van master cylinder lines are swapped backwards. Then I just welded part of the original pushrod to the one from the van setup. It's about 1 1/4" too short. Now there is a nice aluminum master cylinder on there with the plastic non-leaking res. It saves about 5# too!
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