Shifter Stuck in Tilt Column

[67L30WGN]

I have a '72 with a tilt steering column, an automatic and only 84K original miles. The shifter has always been smooth and easy. After driving one day, I pulled into my driveway and went to put the truck in Park, but I couldn't. In fact, I could just barely get it into Neutral from Drive. I can move the shifter to the lower Drive settings, but not the other direction. I disconnected the shifter at the tranny and the problem is clearly in the steering column. What could be jamming the shifter in the column?

[Palf70Step]

The only thing that comes to mind is the end of the shifter inside the column has cracked/broken off and it won't move the guts right.

[too much stuff]

Does the shifter move back and forth? Try some wd-40 or similar right in where the shifter goes in the housing.

[sneakysnake]

Here is all the parts, but a good oiling is a place to start.

[jeffspower]

I had a column that would do the same thing after sitting too long. the problem was in the end outside the firewall. The detent sliding tube thingy would get stuck. Penatrating oil would always free it up.

[pat 70/71]

Originally Posted by jeffspower

I had a column that would do the same thing after sitting too long. the problem was in the end outside the firewall. The detent sliding tube thingy would get stuck. Penatrating oil would always free it up.

I had one do the same thing, cleaned the lever (btm of the column) & wd40 I think it was full of dirt/goop? any hoo, I would start there first its the least$$$ good luck ...Pat

[67L30WGN]

It just doesn't seem stuck due to crud or rust. My shift assembly tube (see exploded view above) and shifter, move completely free for half of the rotation (Low to just barely Neutral) and then comes up against something hard, preventing it from going into Reverse or Park. Prior to the problem, everything worked completely freely. Now, it's almost as if some part has lodged itself inside the steering column blocking full travel. The conical shaped housing with the shift lever (the "bowl" in exploded view) seems to twist as the bottom portion hits up against whatever is blocking things, while the top portion seems free.

As much as I wanted to avoid it, while still in the truck, I've decided to disassemble the steering column from the steering wheel end to see if anything becomes obvious.

Does anyone know where I can get a 12 pt socket to fit over the splined/threaded shaft and onto the bearing nut just under the directional switch? It's a very thin nut and the shaft is too wide for a standard socket to slide over.

[jeffspower]

It still sounds to me like the tube isn't sliding in & out to get past the detent. When you pull back on the shift lever to get past the reverse detent, is the tube sliding up to allow it to go into reverse?

[Sammy]

Imagine something has dislodge inside the assy creating interference. Wonder if those torque screws could do that? Anyway interested to see what he finds. I don't remember what I used on that spline nut but didn't have any difficulty with a standard socket as I recall.

[67L30WGN]

Jeffspower, You may be right, but I'm just not understanding what I'm suppose to be seeing. When I look at the bottom end of the column in the engine compartment, I see the shift assembly tube inside the column jacket with the lever sticking from it. It looks like the end of the tube is a smaller diameter of tube below the lever than above. I was thinking the lever is press fit onto the tube and rests on a shoulder where the tube diameter changes. Are there actually two tubes that are supposed to move independently of each other? I'm thinking not. When I have my wife pull up on the shifter lever inside the truck as though to put the truck into Park, I don't see the tube doing anything at the bottom (its not sliding up and down in the steering column), other than wanting to rotate. Can you tell me what I should be seeing?

[john]

Originally Posted by jeffspower

It still sounds to me like the tube isn't sliding in & out to get past the detent. When you pull back on the shift lever to get past the reverse detent, is the tube sliding up to allow it to go into reverse?

The detents are in the upper part of the column on a tilt. They dont have a shaft that slides up and down. Its been awhile since I've had one apart, but I would start with the shift lever and spring and go from there. Also the detent plate could have come loose. Sorry not much help.

[67L30WGN]

John, I'm leaning in this direction as the detent is inside that bowl. When I removed the large spring located at the lower diameter (remove by inserting a philips head into a steel cap, push in while twisting 1/2 turn), I found a small plastic bumper(?) laying in the grease. If only I could get the dang nut off the bearing and see the detent assembly. Channel locks or a crescent wrench just want to strip it. It looks like it needs one of those J-tools.

[john]

Heres some misc. pics I have saved.

[Sammy]

That should be trying to move as one piece. I'm thinking removal and almost full disassembly to figure it out. If you haven't already guess you could disconnect the linkage at the column. Here are three pics of the tilt mechanism from when I worked on mine. In the third pic shows where the lever fits inside and the two screws (3 and 9 o clock) are on the two pins you pull to disassemble the head. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[67L30WGN]

The pictures are very helpful, guys.

Here is the bearing nut I need a special socket to remove it without damaging it. Any suggestions?



Here is the loose piece (brown plastic piece on right) I found when I removed the large spring. What is this for?



And here is the bottom of my column showing how far up my shifter lever is only able to rotate. It stops about halfway up the slot in the outer jacket.

[Sammy]

That nut I think I used a large pair of angled pliers. My Dad calls water pump type. That piece on the R/H side was a piece of hard rubber wasn't it? I believe it was used as an isolator or dampner in the upper housing and there was like 4 of them..And mine were dislodged after screwin with the reassembly, I put some gasket sealer and reinstalled them.

[Sammy]

Once you get that nut off be careful, keep an eye out for loose ball bearings in case the bearing assy is toast. Looks like some corrosion..

[Sammy]

Look at snakes (post 4)breakdown shows 3 bumpers..

[jeffspower]

Originally Posted by john

The detents are in the upper part of the column on a tilt. They dont have a shaft that slides up and down.

Alot of help I have been. Never gave any thought to the tilt column being different.

[67L30WGN]

I tried the water pump plyers (that's what I usually call them too, but am usually met with a blank stare), aka channel locks, and the nut started to round off so I stopped. The little brown piece on my truck is actually hard plastic and I was wondering if it was one of the three bumpers, but couldn't make out the detail in the exploded view. I guess I'll find out soon enough. It sure didn't belong where I found it, and may be a clue as to where my problems lie.

I'm going to continue this tomorrow when I have daylight again. I don't want to be looking for ball bearings in the dark. Thanks for all the help on this. Stay tuned... Ted

[Sammy]

Yeah, I can tell your retaining nut wasn't falling off. And the evidence of being difficult. That nut might be hard to find if you FUBAR that one. The only possible way you might try besides applying some heat would be to file a small groove into one side just enough to make a place for a screwdriver to tap it loose with a hammer in a counter-clockwise direction.

[Palf70Step]

I would not try and remove the nut with the side cover on. With the cover off you can get a decent grip with channel locks or vice grips and get it started. I used PB Blaster a good bit on mine. It still seemed like for ever to get off because of the fine threads.

[67L30WGN]

Good point. I started to put a puller on the outer shell, but was having trouble grabbing the rolled edge, so stopped for now.

[ls1nova71]

What ever you do, DON'T heat the nut! It's a very thin nylock lock nut, you'll melt the nylon out of it. Like was said before, take the upper housing off first. You can tap it off from the bottom with a small flat blade screwdriver if you don't have a puller, then take the three screws out of the turn signal switch, move it to the side, then just use a small pair of vice grips on the nut, but only tighten them enough to get a grip on the nut, any more and you will be fighting yourself because you will be squeezing the nut to the shaft.

The small triangle thing is a rubber bumper, when tilted up it's like a little bumpstop so it's not metal to metal hitting.

All that been said, my guess is that the shift pointer has broken off and fallen down inside the shift bowl, and that is what is probably hanging it up.

[67L30WGN]

LS1Nova71, From the looks of your username, you'll appreciate my latest acquisition - 1965 Nova SS; 283/PG; 10,680 actual miles; original Evening Orchid paint.

PS. I'm glad you mentioned not heating the nut. I noticed the nut was a nyloc. Besides the bearing cage would melt, too.