Lowering a Longhorn - Can it be done? Also: Who sells Longhorn and/or 3/4 ton parts?

[CPA-DVM]

Ok, so I have been doing a lot of reading and researching the various steps and things I want to do to my truck when I start my rebuild, but can't find anyone who has lowered their Longhorn.
I have a 69 C-20 Longhorn, all original (with original split rims on the front, joy) and am trying to keep it PRETTY original when I do the frame off, starting later this year. But, I am not going to be using it for bed weight or heavy work, just pulling a boat occasionally (roughly 4000 pounds of boat and trailer, so what 500-750 tongue weight) and light bed duty, otherwise summer driving and cruising. I really want to lower the truck around 2-3 in front and 4 in back.

I am familiar with and have been going through catalogues from LMC, ECE, GMCPauls, as well as craigslist, ebay...

I know that I COULD convert the truck to 1/2 ton with spindles and 1/2 ton leafs (and that would do what I want to use it for, but not original). What are my other options that will maintain the 3/4 ton/ 8 bolt?

Front: GMCPauls makes a 3/4 ton front drop spring. Otherwise it looks like a conversion to 5 or 6 bolt and disks. Any others?

REAR: I know they made 3/4 tons with coil and trailing arm rears, but not Longhorns (longer arm would be needed, could I make? is it safe/strong?) GMCPauls sells 3/4 ton drop springs for coil setups.

I know I COULD do a axle flip on the back but I don't want to cut the frame. I think I have read that you can relax leaf springs to lower but does that weaken them? How about some drop shackles, are they rated for the 3/4 ton or just half? What about moving the shackles out and lengthening the leafs?

Maybe what I want to do can't be done, and that's why noone has done it. I don't know. I know Suburbans have been lowered but they have a "normal" wheelbase and that is where my major hiccups are coming from.

I'd have all my hair if I'd just bought the short bed.

[LOW DOUGH]

of course it can be done.

[69GMCLonghorn]

In the front just go with the lowering springs from GMC Pauls or LMC. Lowering the leaf's in back is pretty easy. Either buy new springs that are a lower ride height (go to an actual spring shop and they'll make them correctly), or as you stated, put 'em below the axle. This really isn't too big of a deal. I am really against going to 5 or 6 lug. You've got something stronger than the average bear and you want to make it weaker?? That doesn't make sense to me. I'd buy a 1/2 ton POS and customize it first.

Plus, there are still some decent rims made for 8 lug axles (maybe not 24" spinners, but who wants that anyways?).

[PJsthnam]

I'd also like to know the easiest/best way to lower the ass end. I'd like to level my 72 3/4 ton.

[1956cameo]

Interested in hearing tech tips about this thread since I have a 3/4 ton suburban that I want dropped but still have it remain as a 3/4 ton!

[Longhorn Man]

a 3/4 ton burb would be coils since ALL 2 wheel drive burbs were coil.
I plan on dropping my one ton longhorn sometime. Had hoped to do it over the past summer, but I didn't even get the engine swap done. :lazy:
I plan on flipping the springs out back, and then a shackle to lift it up a bit. A flip would be way too much of a drop and I am almost positive a C notch would be needed for any travel since the leaf pack is so tall on a longhorn.

[No3Fan4Ever]

for alittle coin anything is possible....

http://www.performanceonline.com/sto...me.php?cat=407

few more options here

Also there is a member here with a hot rod longhorn, name is 'crazy longhorn' I think

[crakarjax]

I dropped the front of my chevelle low enough to mess up my alignment, requiring new A-arm shafts. That will probably be the case if you try to do all of your drop in springs. With drop spindles you will maintain the correct geometry.

I was just chatting about this 2 minutes ago. The verdict is that anything more than 4" in back with rear springs and you'll bottom out a lot, necessitating c-notches.

Show me those 8 bolt rims and maybe I'll keep mine!

[Longhorn Man]

2 or 3 inches in front with springs should be no problem at all. And with as high as a longhorn sits in back, 4 inches will probably not create any issues there either.
As far as 8 lug rims, look on any wheel site or in any truck catalog, and you'll see a bunch, some fugly, some tastefull

[steves1967]

I just got a quote to have new leafs built for the rear of my 71 C20. I was quoted $295 for the pair, with the same load capacity as original but with a 4" drop. All I need to do is pull the springs out and send them down to the shop so they can take exact measurements.

I'm planning on using drop spindles in the front, as I dont want to affect the steering geometry.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

2 or 3 inches in front with springs should be no problem at all. And with as high as a longhorn sits in back, 4 inches will probably not create any issues there either.
As far as 8 lug rims, look on any wheel site or in any truck catalog, and you'll see a bunch, some fugly, some tastefull

I believe it was you who quoted $500 spent just doing brakes on your 3/4 ton. In that case, wouldn't it be better(read cheaper, long term) just to do a suspension swap with a late-model?

[PJsthnam]

Originally Posted by steves1967

I just got a quote to have new leafs built for the rear of my 71 C20. I was quoted $295 for the pair, with the same load capacity as original but with a 4" drop. All I need to do is pull the springs out and send them down to the shop so they can take exact measurements.

I'm planning on using drop spindles in the front, as I dont want to affect the steering geometry.

Hey Steve, where you getting those done? Sounds like a good price and I'm not that far from you...Sacramento.

[69GMCLonghorn]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I believe it was you who quoted $500 spent just doing brakes on your 3/4 ton. In that case, wouldn't it be better(read cheaper, long term) just to do a suspension swap with a late-model?

The only way you could drop $500 on brakes on one of these trucks is if you are doing more than the average brake job: replacing drums, master cylinder, brake lines... That kind of thing. On my Longhorn, I believe I did the brakes all the way around, with new wheel cylinders for around $250. If I didn't do the wheel cylinders, it would have been less than $100.

[CPA-DVM]

So right now, the way it is looking, is getting some new rear leafs made up is probably the cheapest and easiest way to go.

One thing that is bothering me. My truck seems so much taller than other long box C-20s. Like it is almost 4x4 height. Is this normal for a longhorn? Were they just made taller in the rear to handle the campers or what? Maybe it's my imagination.

Someone mentioned flipping the axle and then adding TALLER shackles to get to the final height I want. Won't I still run into clearance issues if I do that? The axle is on top of the springs. Where can I find these shackles or are they something I make up?

Another question: I know that the drop spindles advertise that they don't screw with geometery. Since someone mentioned it; do the drop springs then screw with it? How bad? And does anyone make a drop spindle that will fit and use the drum brakes or are they all disk setups?

[69GMCLonghorn]

Originally Posted by CPA-DVM

So right now, the way it is looking, is getting some new rear leafs made up is probably the cheapest and easiest way to go.

One thing that is bothering me. My truck seems so much taller than other long box C-20s. Like it is almost 4x4 height. Is this normal for a longhorn? Were they just made taller in the rear to handle the campers or what? Maybe it's my imagination.

Someone mentioned flipping the axle and then adding TALLER shackles to get to the final height I want. Won't I still run into clearance issues if I do that? The axle is on top of the springs. Where can I find these shackles or are they something I make up?

Another question: I know that the drop spindles advertise that they don't screw with geometery. Since someone mentioned it; do the drop springs then screw with it? How bad? And does anyone make a drop spindle that will fit and use the drum brakes or are they all disk setups?

In terms of the front end geometry, any lowering or raising will cause alignment issues, usually camber. If you don't drop it more than the previously stated few inches, this can usually be corrected with a simple alignment. I had a '95 Chevy 1/2 ton (basically same front end as these trucks). I did a 2" spacer to lift the front end, had it aligned and it's fine. So unless you're going down more than say 3", just do it and get it aligned. Done deal...

On the rears, you sure your springs are below the axle? Most are above on the heavier duty beasts... If you have the $$$, get the new springs for the rear. That way you know they will work properly with no Mickey Mousing...

[CPA-DVM]

My rear is currently below the springs, like it should be. I know that some guys flip the axle to the top of the springs and it was mentioned to do that and then add spacers to the shackles to "relift" the truck to the desired height. I was just thinking this would still cause me travel and clearance issues as an axle has some thickness to it.

I was thinking all I should run into is alignment issues on the front.

Yeah I don't want to bag this thing. I want to keep it a useble 3/4 ton, just with a better stance and no redneck lean.

[Mike C]

Longer shackles will lower the rear. I dropped the back of my '70 2500 with the Early Classics shackles to level it out. The disc swap actually lowered the front relative to the drums. My '70 Longhorn parts truck had 2 1/2" leaf springs the same as 4x4 trucks while my '70 127" wb truck had 2 1/4". Lots of people make drop shackles for the 2 1/2" spring.

[Longhorn Man]

Yeah, I dropped 5 bills on over the counter type parts for a brake job on my one ton (not 3/4 ton) and that didn't even do the whole job. I still have one old cylinder, the front still has old shoes, and all 4 drums are older than dirt too. Some of those parts simply do not exist anymore.
As for swapping to later running geat, that is moot, we are talking about lowering, not updating. I have a 78 burb sitting in my garage right now sloly getting stripped. It has a 14 bolt with (i think) 3.73 gears, and a disk front end that needs everything replaced. So that is a non-issue, and completely moot in this discussion.
Someone pointed out that longet shackles will lower, and that is 100% right. I had forgotten about that.

[Longhorn Man]

And the air bag comments... while cost is a seriouse factor with a proper air ride set up, they ride better, and if done right, will hold a LOT more weight than a stock suspention ever could.

[special-K]

I like the spring shop idea to keep the capacity.There are over the counter leaf spring lowering parts:Lower leafs,Longer shackles,and spring perches that locate the springs farther up on the frame.The flip will crowd the axle to the frame.The spring packs are taller,but that`s from the main leaf down.Lowering is the same.What`s different is how much higher it sits now.4wds sit about the same because they are.The most difference in the rear is some 4wd trucks had a 1" block to level it with the front.
Custom 8-lug wheels?Plenty out there,just look.Ever see custom wheelz on an H3?

[PJsthnam]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Longer shackles will lower the rear. I dropped the back of my '70 2500 with the Early Classics shackles to level it out.

Mike, the only ones I found at early classics are for 1/2 ton. Are they strong enough for 3/4 ton? I just started looking around recently and have found only shackles for 1/2 ton's. Who has 'em for 3/4 ton?

[PJsthnam]

Just found em at GMCPaul's. OOPs...doesn't say 3/4 ton.

[special-K]

1/2t are the same as 3/4t.

[Mike C]

The shackles will be plenty strong enough for a 3/4 ton. Mine were the same gauge steel as the originals. They came with 2 different hole positions and I actually used the ones that kept the back a little higher.

[steves1967]

Originally Posted by PJsthnam

Hey Steve, where you getting those done? Sounds like a good price and I'm not that far from you...Sacramento.

Hey PJ, sorry it took so long to reply, havent been on the puter in awhile. Anyway- A1 Spring in Oakland (down by the airport) quoted me those prices.